VP DP Outdrive Raw Water Pipe replacement

[Samarano]

Hi all,
This winter needs the bellows replacing on my 2 x DP-G.
I understand the raw water pipe (876632 ) connecting the outdrive to the transom shield may or not be able to be done with the engine in position.
Does anyone have any tips on the best way to replace that 'S' shape raw water pipe without moving the engine forward?
cheers.

 

[James jameson]

If you get lucky and the 2 bolts inside arent seized and you can get to them you are in for a struggle

you need 8 ft arms and a thin body !

its is far easier with the engine out or forward, be careful not to snap the 2 bolts off or your going to have to take the engine out to drill the studs out.

 

[simonfraser]

Hi all,
This winter needs the bellows replacing on my 2 x DP-G.
I understand the raw water pipe (876632 ) connecting the outdrive to the transom shield may or not be able to be done with the engine in position.
Does anyone have any tips on the best way to replace that 'S' shape raw water pipe without moving the engine forward?
cheers.

def not a routine replacement item, is it leaking or showing signs of failing ?

 

[Ribstar]

If you get lucky and the 2 bolts inside arent seized and you can get to them you are in for a struggle

you need 8 ft arms and a thin body !

its is far easier with the engine out or forward, be careful not to snap the 2 bolts off or your going to have to take the engine out to drill the studs out.

Cheers, I’m gonna take a look inside to see if I can locate the fitting easy enough. I know that sounds a bit hopeful! ?

 

[Ribstar]

def not a routine replacement item, is it leaking or showing signs of failing ?

No, there’s anything wrong with it. Port and Stbd working as normal. Just thought as a rubber item, they could be replaced whilst the outdrive is off for new bellows.
Is it not normally touched, like forever?

 

[oldgit]

Bit of confusion here ?
The rubber pipe outside the transom assembly is merely a bit of rubber pipe held on with couple of hose clips and usually changed as part of the
yearly/bi annual service along with the bellows etc, it actually very rarely needs changing due to failure unlike the U/J bellows.
The metal pipe inside the boat on the rear of the assembly and attached by a couple of almost impossible to see let alone undo bolts is best left alone unless leaking or badly corroded.
It may then require moving the engine back to get socket on the nuts.
This not your engine/outdrive but probably similar.
Pipe is just visible top of pix with pipe going 90 degrees vertically out of frame.
The big alloy whitish casting is the exhaust horn and real fun to get off. :

 

[James jameson]

Even if you dont do the cooling pipe Inspect the inside of the exhaust trumpet for corrosion, cheap bore scope camera

 

[Ribstar]

Bit of confusion here ?
The rubber pipe outside the transom assembly is merely a bit of rubber pipe held on with couple of hose clips and usually changed as part of the
yearly/bi annual service along with the bellows etc, it actually very rarely needs changing due to failure unlike the U/J bellows.
The metal pipe inside the boat on the rear of the assembly and attached by a couple of almost impossible to see let alone undo bolts is best left alone unless leaking or badly corroded.
It may then require moving the engine back to get socket on the nuts.
This not your engine/outdrive but probably similar.
Pipe is just visible top of pix with pipe going 90 degrees vertically out of frame.
The big alloy whitish casting is the exhaust horn and real fun to get off. :

That’s what I thought. It’s the rubber pipe with hose clips either end. But, it’s supposed to be difficult to get the hose clip off on the transom end.
Thanks for the picture. I will have a look into mine. I’m sure the exhaust horn on DP-G is on stbd side.

 

[oldgit]

But, it’s supposed to be difficult to get the hose clip off on the transom end.

One of those "jubilee clip" type screwdrivers with flexible drive shaft and little mini HEX socket on the end (must to fit your clips) , will dramatically reduce the damage to your knuckles and keep the use of bandaids and swearing to a minimum.
Much easier to do that pipe if the leg is off , you can possibly remove leg off on your own but it really needs two to refit without injury to either you or the outdrive leg.
On my old boat used the davits to jury rig a support system which usually left a hand free to wiggle the U/J onto the jack shaft spline.
Hose connection to transom assembly centre right.


Exhaust Horn Corrosion.
Usually at the very top edge of the alloy exhaust horn under the clip/clamp securing the engine exhaust pipe to top of horn.
Nothing left to clamp hose to.
Another VP genius design, the carbon in the hose reacting in salt water with the aluminium ???? and dissolving slowly over the years.
The bolts holding the horn to the transom casting will usually shear if you try to remove and replace the outrageously priced horn.
You could however buy a neat little kit that would bond to what was left of the exhaust and do a fairly decent bodge ensuring that the next owner of your boat picks up the bill.

 

[Samarano]

Thanks, thats great. I can see where it is now. I have got some of those flexi-hex drives so if that goes in, it should be doable. I am doing the job with a couple of guys who have done loads, so not going in blind here, but want to get the heads up.
Thanks for the advise on exhaust horn. I'll look out for that too.
PS: sorry for the dual member profile. I keep mistakenly automatically logging in as my son! ?‍

 

[James jameson]

One of those "jubilee clip" type screwdrivers with flexible drive shaft and little mini HEX socket on the end (must to fit your clips) , will dramatically reduce the damage to your knuckles and keep the use of bandaids and swearing to a minimum.
Much easier to do that pipe if the leg is off , you can possibly remove leg off on your own but it really needs two to refit without injury to either you or the outdrive leg.
On my old boat used the davits to jury rig a support system which usually left a hand free to wiggle the U/J onto the jack shaft spline.
Hose connection to transom assembly centre right.


Exhaust Horn Corrosion.
Usually at the very top edge of the alloy exhaust horn under the clip/clamp securing the engine exhaust pipe to top of horn.
Nothing left to clamp hose to.
Another VP genius design, the carbon in the hose reacting in salt water with the aluminium ???? and dissolving slowly over the years.
The bolts holding the horn to the transom casting will usually shear if you try to remove and replace the outrageously priced horn.
You could however buy a neat little kit that would bond to what was left of the exhaust and do a fairly decent bodge ensuring that the next owner of your boat picks up the bill.

this image is a 270 transom shield which will not be the same as 290 DP series which as the image shows has an external hose clip.


the 290 on coolant pipe pushes through a hole in the transom plate and a fitting which is now plastic pushes in side the rubber pipe from inside expanding the rubber to seal it against the transom plate.

the fitting inside is held to the transom plate with 2 6mm / 10mm head bolts inside the boat, this is difficult to access because the engine wlywheel bell housing is close to the transom plate hence the need to move the engine forward to make access easier.

 

[James jameson]

this image is a 270 transom shield which will not be the same as 290 DP series which as the image shows has an external hose clip.


the 290 on coolant pipe pushes through a hole in the transom plate and a fitting which is now plastic pushes in side the rubber pipe from inside expanding the rubber to seal it against the transom plate.

the fitting inside is held to the transom plate with 2 6mm / 10mm head bolts inside the boat, this is difficult to access because the engine wlywheel bell housing is close to the transom plate hence the need to move the engine forward to make access easier.

Also the exhaust trumpet is also bolted from inside and the engine must be moved forward ro access those bolts

 

[oldgit]

Outdrive is actually a 280T fitted with 2 x hydraulic rams for trim and tilt.
Fairly rare, especially the duo prop version, which morphed into the 290.

The leg itself is basic 270/290 and bits easy and cheap to source, the lift sytem was a hideous labyrinthine nightmare that Heath Robinson would have been proud of.
The alloy ram casings were in competition with the anodes to see which could corrode fastest.