VP 2003 Sea Water Pump

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Giblets

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Have recently changed the impeller on the sea water pump (840557) on a VP 2003 engine installed in my friend's Moody 31 Mk 2. At the same time we fitted a Speedseal cover plate. There is now a very slight water leak from the holes immediately behind the impeller housing and in front of the body of the pump where it bolts on to the block. I'm wondering if the seal (shown as item 9 on the diagram) has failed and, if so, can this be changed without removing the pump from the engine?

Alternatively would it be more prudent to remove the pump and change both seals (items 9 & 15)?

TIA

View attachment 40188
 
What you describe is typical of failure of the front seal, allowing water to escape from the pump via the tell-tale holes. It would be best to remove the pump, replace both seals and check the shaft for wear at the points of contact with the seals. When you replace the seals the springs face the liquid to be sealed, i.e. The water on the outer one and the oil on the inner. It is not a difficult job, no special tools required. There is additional information and many examples on my website.
 
Many thanks for the info and advice, Vyv. Will get a couple of seals and have a go at changing them. Point taken regarding inspecting the shaft as well. :encouragement:
 
Have just done the same job myself! just make sure you put the two seals back to back. with the spacer between Thats with the open sides facing away from each other. (Ones stops the water the other the oil) Try to find alterate supplier then VP. Here Norway. VP wanted £8.50 EACH! I got then, exact same seals from alterative supplier for £6.30 FOR TWO.

VP seals item No 833996
 
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Just had this on my pump. Ordered up the seals, but when the pump was dismantled the shaft was scored badly and needed replacing too. Made sense to put new bearings in at the same time. You can get just the seals or a shaft service kit from Keyparts: http://www.keypart.com/volvo-penta/diesel-engine/2003/19831990. Ordered online and delivered in 48 hours.
 
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I needed a pair of circlip pliers to do this job - not exactly a "special tool" but not everyone's got them.
 
Very timely thread for me: my M31 (with VP2003) has just gone back in the water and when running the engine I noticed a steady trickle from the back of the impeller housing, as described in the OP. I was slightly surprised, because it has always been dry, and now seems to have failed just after I replaced the impeller. I wonder if I could have messed up the changeover? It seems too much of a co-incidence not to be related. The leak is definitely coming from the back of the pump, not the front cover.

In any case, I have removed the pump housing and will call Keyparts in the AM to get the seals 9 and 15, but does anyone see anything obviously wrong in these pictures? I find myself wondering if the vanes are bent the "wrong" way, but even if I put them in wrongly, the pump operation must flip them round, mustn't it? Any help or advice appreciated.

<edit to add 3rd photo - the washer forming the rear plate seems to have 2 holes rather than one, as shown on the parts diagram. Also, a really basic question: I assume that you begin disassembly by removing the screw securing the cam, then everything else just pops out? This screw seems very tight, and possibly seized. Oh, joy.>

Impeller 1.jpgImpeller 2.jpgimpeller 3.jpg
 
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All the info earlier in the thread seems to cover your situation. Yes, you need to remove the cam, then the rear plate. The seal should then be revealed. The impeller vanes will reverse immediately the engine runs so you cannot put it in the wrong way.
 
Viking said:
Have just done the same job myself! just make sure you put the two seals back to back. with the spacer between Thats with the open sides facing away from each other. (Ones stops the water the other the oil) Try to find alterate supplier then VP. Here Norway. VP wanted £8.50 EACH! I got then, exact same seals from alterative supplier for £6.30 FOR TWO.

VP seals item No 833996
Click to expand...
Did you use seals with stainless steel springs?If you didn't they won't last two weeks.At a pinch you can use "O" rings in place of the springs.It's a bodge but it works.
 
l'escargot said:
Just had this on my pump. Ordered up the seals, but when the pump was dismantled the shaft was scored badly and needed replacing too. Made sense to put new bearings in at the same time. You can get just the seals or a shaft service kit from Keyparts: http://www.keypart.com/volvo-penta/diesel-engine/2003/19831990. Ordered online and delivered in 48 hours.
Click to expand...

I posted this useful money saving tip a while ago, but it is worth repeating. If the shaft is scored where the seals bear on it, no need to scrap the shaft and buy a new one at Volvo prices. Instead, make up a shim (thin) washer to fit behind each seal, which will move said seal along the shaft such that it will bear on a new unscored bit of the shaft.
use a bit of S/Steel shim stock ..you can scrounge some from a machine shop. .5 mm should do the trick. Obviously use new seals as well.
 
Yes you could provided that it fitted externally and internally..it needn't be exact.
If t was too thick,grind it down on a flat surface. All you need is for the seal to run on a new unworn bit of shaft.
 
Cool. Thanks. Hopefully not needed, of course!

The replacement seals just arrived from Keypart (£12 including 2 seals, a front cover gasket, an O ring and another gasket that doesn't look as though it fits on the pump but is the right shape for the inlet strainer) and the pump housing is sitting on my workbench downstairs, so I'll give it a whirl.

Slightly worried about removing the cam retaining screw.

That reminds me. I'll nip down and baste it in penetrating oil now, ready for some fun tonight.
 
lampshuk said:
Cool. Thanks. Hopefully not needed, of course!

The replacement seals just arrived from Keypart (£12 including 2 seals, a front cover gasket, an O ring and another gasket that doesn't look as though it fits on the pump but is the right shape for the inlet strainer) and the pump housing is sitting on my workbench downstairs, so I'll give it a whirl.

Slightly worried about removing the cam retaining screw.

That reminds me. I'll nip down and baste it in penetrating oil now, ready for some fun tonight.
Click to expand...

I recently had a small leak from the cam screw. On slight tightening the head disintegrated (brass). Cam is then free to come out, screw residue removed, and new screw (used old front cover screw- Speedseal fitted last year) fitted. All OK.
 
Hmm. I thought the Cam screw looked very different to the front case screws. Fingers crossed mine stays in one piece.
What is this Speedseal everyone is going on about? I must look in to that.
 
vyv_cox said:
... you need to remove the cam, then the rear plate. The seal should then be revealed.
Click to expand...

I got the cam out and can see the front seal, but it doesn't seem to want to come out. Should it be removable from the front, or do I need to withdraw the shaft, ball race etc from the back?

You can see from the photo that the spring on the inside of the seal has rusted and disintegrated. No idea when it was last looked at. The Keypart kit has shiny metal springs that could be s/steel. Fingers crossed.

I can just about grab the internal lip of the seal with needle nose pliers but can't budge it. The outer lip is stiffer and won't come away from the casing. Is it safe to cut away the seal, or do I need a Cunning Plan?

Will I also be able to replace the oil side without dismantling the back of the assembly? I have removed the main drive cog, locking pin and 2 circlips to get down to the ball race, but it seems that more force is needed for the next step. I would prefer not to remove the shaft if I can avoid it.

I hate it when this happens: taking a critical piece of machinery that (kind of) works apart so that it's completely broken, then finding you can't complete the job!

Impeller 4.jpg
 
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