VP 2003 Sea Water Pump

Yes, that's the correct way for it to come out. With a combination of hooks, screws and levers it will eventually move. In some models you may be able to remove the shaft and knock the seal out from the back with a long rod. The ones with stainless steel springs last a lot longer than those with carbon steel or brass ones.
 
Great. Thanks, Vyv. That's re-assuring. It looks like the plastic body of the old seal has fused to the casing, so it's going to take some winkling out. I hope the oil-side one is easier.

The service kit comes with an O-ring that's much too long for the circumference of the casing between the seals. Not "a bit loose on the shaft" but "fold it double and it still won't fit in the casing" - either it's a part for a different pump (the parts diagram for my pump doesn't have an O-ring that looks the size of this one) or all will be revealed when I get the first seal off. If the function is just a "flinger" (love that concept) I suppose I can use any loose-fitting O-ring from Halfords etc?
 
Some pumps have an O-ring seal in a groove on the front of the casing for the joint to the cover, instead of a paper gasket. Could it be that?

You may find that there is a flinger on the shaft at present. Sometimes they are an O-ring but sometimes a plastic ring. Not essential though as no seawater will pass your new seal:) They are not loose, should revolve with the shaft.
 
Well - that was entertaining.
Finally got the water seal out - thanks, Vyv, for giving me confidence to carry on gouging :encouragement:. I would probably have assumed it wasn't supposed to shift. Photo below shows the state of the seal by the time I got it out. The best tool for the job was a smallish nail carefully tapped in behind the top lip of the seal, then levered away. Moved it around the rim and repeated until I could get a good enough grip with locking forceps and finally out she popped. :)

Revealing a castellated plastic "washer" that is free to rotate within the "cage" that lets the telltale water flush out. It's not on the parts diagram. Also an o-ring snug to the shaft. Which ison the parts list.

No way to get the oil-side seal from this angle, though. I've removed the oil-side fittings as far as the first ball race, but nothing seems to want to shift any further. Is a special tool required? Just tap the shaft with a heavy enough hammer?
I'm tempted to leave the oil side.

No signs of wear on the shaft, so I think I will clean up the housing and put it all back, unless someone has a quick way of getting the oil seal off.

One slightly worrying sight: the steel pin securing the drive cog to the back of the shaft is looking a bit dodgy. Hard to see where the stress has come from. Worth replacing it? Or shrug, and worry about the next thing in the queue?

Thanks, all, for your help. Much appreciated.

impeller 5.jpgImpeller 6.jpg
 
I usually use two small screw drivers inserted in the 'gap' where your spring used to be, 180 degrees apart, and then lever the seal out. You need to be careful that you do not score either the shaft or the housing but it should be OK unless the rubber seal is completely disintegrated!! I do the water side seal every two years as a maintenance task when I replace the impeller - that way it is usually easy to get out.

Good luck.
 
I think the bearings are a press fit and will knock out. However, they should not be re-used after this treatment so if they are OK I would leave well alone.

I have never seen that castellated washer before. Not sure what its function might be.

I doubt that the pin is going to snap. Looks like it might have been damaged elsewhere.
 
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