VP 2002 dummy questions

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eddystone

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No engineering aptitude whatsoever but had a poke around engine installation today and have a few questions.

1. My fuel tank (1986 Sadler 32) looks like stainless steel - it could be mild steel but wouldn't it have rusted through by now if it was?

2. As far as I can see the fuel hose comes vertically out of the bottom of the tank with a tap on it (in fact the only fuel cut off); does that not make it more prone to blockage? (It hasn't yet)

3. There is a minor drip from the water pump housing and some deposition around the outside of the housing but water flow out of the exhaust looks good. Is this a case of a) cancel next weekend's plans (finally I can go out, I've got a crew!) and put a new gasket on (probably an hours job for the average PBO forumite but about 3 months head scratching for me before I get an engineer to do the job); or b) just keep an eye on it and fix it in due course?

4. If the valve in the siphon was blocked by salt deposits, it doesn't impede water circulation, just stops it protecting the engine which is not a problem for me as I do always remember to close the inlet seacock when I leave the boat. Is this correct?
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1. The fuel tank on my 1984 Sadler 34 is stainless steel. I know of mild steel ones just as old that are in good condition. No water = no corrosion, so regular draining from the bottom of the tank is the answer.

2. On my tank the outlet is as you describe but there is a 25 mm upstand inside the tank, so the fuel is drawn above any debris or water. There is also a drain plug that does not have an upstand. This should be drained off from time to time when the fuel level is low.

3. If the leak is from the cover joint I would not be too bothered. If it is actually from the small port at the back of the pump it shows that the seal has failed, in which case it is possible that seawater is getting into the engine oil. In this case you need to do something about it soon. There is a lot of info about water pumps and this problem on my website.

4. Yes, that is the normal situation. My Bukh and Yanmar engines have not had anti-siphon valves as I don't consider one necessary in my installation.
 
vyv_cox said:
1. The fuel tank on my 1984 Sadler 34 is stainless steel. I know of mild steel ones just as old that are in good condition. No water = no corrosion, so regular draining from the bottom of the tank is the answer.

2. On my tank the outlet is as you describe but there is a 25 mm upstand inside the tank, so the fuel is drawn above any debris or water. There is also a drain plug that does not have an upstand. This should be drained off from time to time when the fuel level is low.

3. If the leak is from the cover joint I would not be too bothered. If it is actually from the small port at the back of the pump it shows that the seal has failed, in which case it is possible that seawater is getting into the engine oil. In this case you need to do something about it soon. There is a lot of info about water pumps and this problem on my website.

4. Yes, that is the normal situation. My Bukh and Yanmar engines have not had anti-siphon valves as I don't consider one necessary in my installation.
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Thanks Viv, most helpful. Didn't notice a drain plug - i'll have to explore with a mirror and a torch some time.
 
Couple of other thoughts.

1. The zinc anode (raw water cooled) is according to the handbook, screwed into a brass holder which is screwed into the block. On mine looks like the thread of the holder has some sealant on it; if I remove to check the anode, should I grease the thread of the holder or does that interfere with the anode's action?

2. the RYA Diesel Engine Maintenance handbook says gearbox oil level should be checked with the dipstick not screwed back in; the VP dipstick has a bayonet - would you check the oil level resting on top of the bayonet or refitted? - I tried it and it makes quite a difference but I don't want to overfill (although can't imagine that would do any damage, unlike overfilling the engine.
 
eddystone said:
Couple of other thoughts.

1. The zinc anode (raw water cooled) is according to the handbook, screwed into a brass holder which is screwed into the block. On mine looks like the thread of the holder has some sealant on it; if I remove to check the anode, should I grease the thread of the holder or does that interfere with the anode's action?

2. the RYA Diesel Engine Maintenance handbook says gearbox oil level should be checked with the dipstick not screwed back in; the VP dipstick has a bayonet - would you check the oil level resting on top of the bayonet or refitted? - I tried it and it makes quite a difference but I don't want to overfill (although can't imagine that would do any damage, unlike overfilling the engine.
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I tend to put a spot of vaseline on mine; the anode still erodes, so I don't think it interferes with it working. The vaseline is more to ensure it will undo reasonably easily next time than anything else.

Surely the matter of how the dipstick should be used is up to the engine manufacturers, not the RYA? I don't think there is a general rule. I push mine home on my VP 2003; that seems to be correct as there isn't a definite "stop" unless you push it right in. But I'd look at the manual, not the RYA handbook to get a definitive answer. And I'd suggest that the RYA are wrong to give such definite advice, which might be right some of the time, but not always.
 
The owners' manual (http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_owner.pdf doesn't specify, so it seems resonable to push it right home.

A bayonet fitting sounds like the gearbox oil to me. That's over the back of the engine. The engine oil dipstick on my 2003 (port side of the engine) is a simple push fit.

BTW, Anyone got any tips for removing a stubborn engine anode? The non-adjustable spanners I have that fit are too fragile for the level of brute force it seems to need and my big stilson's too floppy for the shock treatment I'd rather use to work.
 
Stemar said:
The owners' manual (http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_owner.pdf doesn't specify, so it seems resonable to push it right home.

A bayonet fitting sounds like the gearbox oil to me. That's over the back of the engine. The engine oil dipstick on my 2003 (port side of the engine) is a simple push fit.

BTW, Anyone got any tips for removing a stubborn engine anode? The non-adjustable spanners I have that fit are too fragile for the level of brute force it seems to need and my big stilson's too floppy for the shock treatment I'd rather use to work.
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I found that the square end of the anode fitting isn't an exact spanner size. It seems to be a half inch square - which seems a bit odd for an otherwise metric engine! When it is checked yearly, as it should be, it doesn't seem to be a problem, and I just use a decent adjustable. When putting it back, I use a smear of vaseline and don't over tighten it; vaseline doesn't seem to affect the effectiveness of the anode. However, when I first got the boat, it a) obviously hadn't been unscrewed for years and b) the square had been mangled thoroughly! I found a set of Irwin Bolt-grips with a longish tommy bar did the trick, but I was willing to replace the anode holder. In order to get decent leverage, it is necessary to remove the alternator on a 2003 (the anode is in a different place on the 2002; YMMV). From what I've seen, the anodes seem to last about a year.
 
I get the anode out of my 2003, using a metric socket set, using an extension bar (not sure that is the right term, but the bit that goes between handle and socket) to get past the alternator. Althogh it is square (as said above) I can get quite a good fit with a metric socket. I cannot remember which size it is, but a quick bit of trial and error will soon sort that out!
 
I had the same problem on a VP2003.
I solved it by using a hexagon socket in reverse i.e. the 1/2 square drive fits the square shaft in the anode holder. I used the largest allen key I had to drive the socket (you obviously need to select the correct size socket) & increased the leverage by slipping a piece of steel tube over the allen key. You do need to remove the alternator first.
 
Yes I was talking about the gearbox oil, not the engine - I agree that the RYA handbook should advise to check with the manufacturer rther than being dogmatic as they are.

Just a guess which I can't substantiate not being at the boat but would the manual cranking handle fit?
 
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