Volvo TAMD75 EDC Problem

bmwsma

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Hello All. Great forum! I'm brand new to this forum and I'm impressed. I'm hoping someone on here can help with my EDC issue. Here's what's happening:
Took the boat out many times this summer. She ran great. Summer prior (2018) I had a very high powered stereo hooked up to my 2 starter batteries in my 2003 Regal 4260 Express. My port side would go dead and I'd only have starboard to dock the boat. No forward, no reverse. I discovered one of the 3 breakers in the control box mounted on the side of the engine would pop. I'd push it back in and the controls would start working again. Ultimately, I replaced the breaker and port side has run flawlessly. Fast forward to summer of 2019. Startboard side starts acting up. Nothing at all in forward. Reverse was perfect. I suspect stereo hooked to engine batteries was interfering with EDC's. Pulled stereo off batteries, take her for a run, she runs perfectly. Summer of 2020; all is great until October when I take her for a run. She would pull hard until almost on plane, then just drop into neutral. Engine would rev, but no forward thrust. Reverse is perfect. Oil sample shows 358ppm for copper, 98ppm for aluminum, which Wix says is abnormal. Not severe which is their worst grade. I'm not sure if when the engine was pulling onto plane, then went into neutral and just revved, did it slip the clutch by possibly the solenoid being partially open and increased the level of copper? I'm trying to figure out if I have an electrical problem and or if the trans is in need of a rebuild. I swapped solenoid from forward to reverse on trans and nothing changed. Figured if seloniod was bad, I'h have no reverse with the swap. Thanks for anyones help!
 
Hello All. Great forum! I'm brand new to this forum and I'm impressed. I'm hoping someone on here can help with my EDC issue. Here's what's happening:
Took the boat out many times this summer. She ran great. Summer prior (2018) I had a very high powered stereo hooked up to my 2 starter batteries in my 2003 Regal 4260 Express. My port side would go dead and I'd only have starboard to dock the boat. No forward, no reverse. I discovered one of the 3 breakers in the control box mounted on the side of the engine would pop. I'd push it back in and the controls would start working again. Ultimately, I replaced the breaker and port side has run flawlessly. Fast forward to summer of 2019. Startboard side starts acting up. Nothing at all in forward. Reverse was perfect. I suspect stereo hooked to engine batteries was interfering with EDC's. Pulled stereo off batteries, take her for a run, she runs perfectly. Summer of 2020; all is great until October when I take her for a run. She would pull hard until almost on plane, then just drop into neutral. Engine would rev, but no forward thrust. Reverse is perfect. Oil sample shows 358ppm for copper, 98ppm for aluminum, which Wix says is abnormal. Not severe which is their worst grade. I'm not sure if when the engine was pulling onto plane, then went into neutral and just revved, did it slip the clutch by possibly the solenoid being partially open and increased the level of copper? I'm trying to figure out if I have an electrical problem and or if the trans is in need of a rebuild. I swapped solenoid from forward to reverse on trans and nothing changed. Figured if seloniod was bad, I'h have no reverse with the swap. Thanks for anyones help!
If the gearbox solenoid coil fails you get open circuit so edc fault , solenoids seem to stick if not used especially on the ZF 280 , not had many issues with solenoids on twin disc .
if the valve only partially opens the clutch will grab but is starved of oil to make full clutch pack operating pressure so that’s a possibility with the oil results , I am assuming you have sampled gear box oil not engine oil .
 
Thanks for the reply. On the worse end of things, what you said above is certainly a concern. I’ve swapped solenoids from forward to reverse and it did not effect performance. I also swapped valves with no change in performance. (They were very clean with no dirt or grit on them). I’ll probably buy and install new solenoids as a cheap try to fix. My gut says it’s something in the potentiometers. Oil sample from the trans (I’m not that dumb ?) says 358 of copper in oil which according to a ZF shop, is acceptable for 550 hour oil.
 
Thanks for the reply. On the worse end of things, what you said above is certainly a concern. I’ve swapped solenoids from forward to reverse and it did not effect performance. I also swapped valves with no change in performance. (They were very clean with no dirt or grit on them). I’ll probably buy and install new solenoids as a cheap try to fix. My gut says it’s something in the potentiometers. Oil sample from the trans (I’m not that dumb ?) says 358 of copper in oil which according to a ZF shop, is acceptable for 550 hour oil.
Ps... it’s a ZF280IV
 
Thanks for the reply. On the worse end of things, what you said above is certainly a concern. I’ve swapped solenoids from forward to reverse and it did not effect performance. I also swapped valves with no change in performance. (They were very clean with no dirt or grit on them). I’ll probably buy and install new solenoids as a cheap try to fix. My gut says it’s something in the potentiometers. Oil sample from the trans (I’m not that dumb ?) says 358 of copper in oil which according to a ZF shop, is acceptable for 550 hour oil.
Potentiometers won’t have any effect on the level of drive , you either have a signal current or not to solenoid coil it’s as simple as that .
Have you tried to manual shift the box , assuming it’s a ZF you just twist the knurled knob under the coil , so remove the plug and coil you will see the knurled knob , warning only operate them independent not together as you will wreck the gears .
 
Potentiometers won’t have any effect on the level of drive , you either have a signal current or not to solenoid coil it’s as simple as that .
Have you tried to manual shift the box , assuming it’s a ZF you just twist the knurled knob under the coil , so remove the plug and coil you will see the knurled knob , warning only operate them independent not together as you will wreck the gears .
Yeah that makes sense. EDC controls pump for throtlle; solenoid only opens the valve. My thoughts were to pull solenoid, twist knob on forward valve to open, then throttle up. I discovered how the EDC works today after talking to my Pop. I would have tried this last summer had I known!
 
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