volvo tamd41b help, manuals/inj pump info .princess 30 ds,circa 1989

As fred and paul have said I doubt there is anything wrong with your engines, they just need to do some work

As they start ok with no undue noises etc

Mine, which are also TAMD41A's also smoke a bit when first started. When I first got her the smoke was quite bad but since she has seen some use there is now less.

Running on idle with no load will not help as they will not get up to temp and all you will do is wash the bores with unburnt fuel.

Use her and enjoy

Are you exhaust restrictors working? they are there to help to reduce smoke on start up. There is a reset button on the black box atop of each engine.
 
Hi to all

thanks for all you lovely folks input
will advise of preheating effects after trial
thanks again
bob pettitt

ps paul will e mail you re webasto's
 
Hi Folks
Volvo tamd 41a engine
yesterday I conducted a temporary shore powered coolant preheater test, a compact 2kw pumped unit. I put it into calorifier connections on engine on front of thermo stat housing, results disappointing heated thermostat housing and top front of engine fine to about 65 deg c(preheater set temperature cut out)engine mostly stayed cold, I also reversed the pump flow (no better) so has any one tried a different successful method of preheating these units,i have explored core plug replacement immersion type heaters but have drawn a blank as to a supplier, uk and USA, (voltage not a problem). the only other thoughts are to remove two engine block core plugs, and replace with pipe connection adaptors and try pumped unit again with a view to webasto c top as a permanent fixture. any thought's?suggestions welcome
cheers bob pettitt
 
blobby47 said:
Hi Folks
Volvo tamd 41a engine
yesterday I conducted a temporary shore powered coolant preheater test, a compact 2kw pumped unit. I put it into calorifier connections on engine on front of thermo stat housing, results disappointing heated thermostat housing and top front of engine fine to about 65 deg c(preheater set temperature cut out)engine mostly stayed cold, I also reversed the pump flow (no better) so has any one tried a different successful method of preheating these units,i have explored core plug replacement immersion type heaters but have drawn a blank as to a supplier, uk and USA, (voltage not a problem). the only other thoughts are to remove two engine block core plugs, and replace with pipe connection adaptors and try pumped unit again with a view to webasto c top as a permanent fixture. any thought's?suggestions welcome
cheers bob pettitt
Click to expand...

You cannot get the system to flow from the said points as the thermostats are closed, you nee an entry direct into the block are at the front near fresh water pump, then an exit before the stats, difficult one I'd say without looking at the engine. There is another square half inch bsp plug on the square stat housing , one is used for cal tank take off, that could be your inlet as its below the stats feeding the bypass port to top of pump , remember its got to feed warm water into the block around the cylinder liners then out above them through the head but before the stats as when there shut there will be no flow, only flow before stats open is through bypass port. Take a look in the manual, it shows flow diagram before stat opening temp and then after where coolant passes through heat exchanger.
 
Hi Folks and Paul
Before reading last post I returned to boat today in Kent,I think we were very lucky regarding over night storm.
I experimented some more re preheater take off points. After reviewing manual flow circuit diagrams again and physically looking for more possible connection points, temp connected electric pumped water heater to front thermostat housing lower port (sucking out from by pass/ water pump gallery)I retuned this hose into top of heat exchanger(in rad cap hole) this seemed to give a more even spread of heat into whole engine)
So Question my engines have long cylindrical heat exchangers with what looks like cast alloy expansion tanks /filler caps on top. So do the forum think it is safe to drill and tap this filler tank area to take a return pipe 3/8or1/2 bsp parallel thread. I have done this to bowman types of heat exchanger with out problems in the past.
Any other thoughts/ ideas most welcome.
cheers bob
 
blobby47 said:
Hi Folks and Paul
Before reading last post I returned to boat today in Kent,I think we were very lucky regarding over night storm.
I experimented some more re preheater take off points. After reviewing manual flow circuit diagrams again and physically looking for more possible connection points, temp connected electric pumped water heater to front thermostat housing lower port (sucking out from by pass/ water pump gallery)I retuned this hose into top of heat exchanger(in rad cap hole) this seemed to give a more even spread of heat into whole engine)
So Question my engines have long cylindrical heat exchangers with what looks like cast alloy expansion tanks /filler caps on top. So do the forum think it is safe to drill and tap this filler tank area to take a return pipe 3/8or1/2 bsp parallel thread. I have done this to bowman types of heat exchanger with out problems in the past.
Any other thoughts/ ideas most welcome.
cheers bob
Click to expand...

The heat exchanger is not thick enough to drill and tap for a union but one can be soldered to the tank quite easily.
 
Paul thanks for response

do you think thermostat housing top( it looks cast iron) would take a carefully drilled and tapped union connection as I think flow schematic shows it connects to exchanger chamber, and I probably will have to fit a normally closed solenoid valve to the external preheater loop circuit other wise a thermostat bypass will occur when engine running, so preheater running valve open, engine running valve closed, I do really appreciate your input
thanks again bob
 
blobby47 said:
Paul thanks for response

do you think thermostat housing top( it looks cast iron) would take a carefully drilled and tapped union connection as I think flow schematic shows it connects to exchanger chamber, and I probably will have to fit a normally closed solenoid valve to the external preheater loop circuit other wise a thermostat bypass will occur when engine running, so preheater running valve open, engine running valve closed, I do really appreciate your input
thanks again bob
Click to expand...

The flow through block, head, head to exhaust manifold, manifold to stat housing, stat housing to heat exchanger.
That is the run from behind the fresh water pump, normal flow after stat opening, bypass before that.
The highest points are the turbo, there is a small bore pipe from the turbo to the heat exchanger tank, I doubt its large enough to tap into. The exhaust manifold is quite thick.

After another look at a kad 300 today I'm not 100% sure how to get a full,flow of the system with the stats in place as they will be closed until the temp is 82 deg c.

You could try a t in the bottom hose to feed into the water pump and a t in the top hose to stat from the heat exchanger , I do realise you have metal pipes on the 41a where the later engines have rubber hoses in place of the metal ones. I'd say that's the only way you will get full flow through the block and head before the stats open.
 
Hi Bob,

Apologies as I cannot comment on the engines you have but I would strongly recommend that if you are doing slow speeds most of the time then you should generally only run on one engine as this will then be working much harder than if both engines are running simultaneously - this will reduce cylinder bore glazing whilst also warming up the engine a lot quicker.

Be good to see a photo of your pride and joy btw - enjoy

Terry :D
 
Hi Paul

will have more time tomorrow further tests
re flows and heating, I had noticed the air/water bleeds from turbo/thermo housing, on my engine these go into a thickened bossed area of tank will explore thoughts of enlarging this,and branching all three together. will keep you posted

Hi Terry
have 20 years river cruising (part time) with a host of smaller sedate craft, will be happy to cruise single engine, need 2 engines to manoeuvre marina basin.main concern fellow marina/boaters at 5 knots fresh water cruising I will not warm engines enough to reduce smoke much and wont help bore glazing as u said, so will crack the pre heating thing with diesel webasto's once sort flow paths.. how do you post photo's. She will get worked in the estuary time to time
cheers bob
 
Hi Bob

You can upload a photo by clicking on the fourth button on the right hand side of the smiley in the tool bar above or via photo bucket which is another matter :cool: - I hope you can get her out now and again for a good blast which she is made for.

Terry :)
 
Hi Folks

Just an update
modified thermostat housing and continued evaluation with pumped 2kw electric offline heater, results better but not as good as hoped.
I then decided to test the electric heater in built pump flow, with a bucket of water, free flow about 20 litres per minute any resistance to flow and it nearly stopped.
Eureka. I then reverted to test again from calorifier hose tails on front of thermostat housing,(water out lower connection ,returning heated to upper connection ), using pre mentioned heater with an additional pump in loop (known to be 20 lpm flow at 7psi) result good ,engine coolant temp raised from ambiediant (8 Deg c) to 55 deg c in 25 minutes, this is with the constraints of electric heater max temp of 65 deg c and 2 kw output,
any how thermo stat housing mod not required ,in process of now fitting a 5kw, 85 deg c max temp webasto diesel water heater to each engine, so should pre heat engines in a shorter while, and with this water circuit could be used to help maintain engine temps when fresh water cruising (5 knots)with engines running
will advise of finished results cheers bob
 
hi, the problem you have is common, 1989 engines are 41a not b , smokey on start ,clears when warm. The easy options are exhaust brake elbows which will help
reduce smoke but not eliminate. We have replaced and rebuilt many engines , but you can easily modify a 41a to a 41b, as pump, injectors and pistons are not the
same. Volvo also made an exhaust outlet that pushes the smokey exhaust back under the boat and into water to filter the smoke more. Look for a good used pair of 41b engines, i was offered a pair recently for £4000 each as take out runners, but only 150hp version. Keep looking and they will turn up.
Good luck , Dont waste time and money on the 41a's
 
Hope things are getting sorted.We have got 20 odd boats coing up to the Lock next weekend ...........if you want to see real smoke !
 
Hi Folks
have today jury rigged webasto ctop unit and tested ,good results ,engine temp from 6 deg c cold to 78 deg c in 15 minutes, started and acceptable smoke within a bout 1 minute

Old git (so whats your name)
beware freshwater Medway flood water (sort of) last 5 days 10 mph downstream flows water levels in Marina basins up and down 18 inches each way according to tide at lock, more in town
E A say take 2/3 days to settle if not much rain, I have noticed that the E A are passing through the lock every tree trunk/logs and flotsam .Lots more than usual , so beware more than usual boat damaging debris ebbing and flowing in your tidal stretch hope stays dry ish ,will look for smoke cloud, Lol
enjoy your weekend
cheers bob
 
Hi Folks

Just an update, have now fitted a webasto thermo top c water heater to both tamd41'a engines, I am well happy with results .performance figures this week
Arrived at boat air temp 4 deg ,cold engine temp 6 deg, started preheaters 15 minutes got both engines to 65 deg ,measurements taken with a laser thermometer, some cold spots, boat instruments showing 65/70 deg
started engines |(no glow plugs and little smoke) so achieved my goal, and in the cruising season ambiedient temperatures higher so shorter preheater time also heats calorifier, loads of info if any one wants to know just ask
cheers bob
 
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