Volvo saildrive oil change?

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MGsailor

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How long can this be left? When I first got the boat 15 years ago, I religiously changed the oil every year. But I was only doing about 30 engine hours a year so this slipped to once every 2-3 years. 5 years ago I changed the saildrive gaiter and did the oil seals at the same time, although there was no evidence of failure.

I've just realised I haven't changed the oil since. Must I change it now, before I launch in a couple of weeks? After all the gearbox in my car never has the oil changed! And changing the oil does run the small risk of water ingress at the drain plug, if that is not put back perfectly.

I would be interested in the forum's views. Its a 120SB attached to a 1987 vintage 2001 - only 9hp. It uses the same oil as the engine (currently Volvo's own 10-40).
 
You don’t say if you check it or not

However your car gearbox does not run immersed in water and if it leaks there will be traces of oil under the car

I would at least drain some off to check for contamination water or otherwise
I would also make a point of greasing the prop on its spline
 
Your saildrive will have bevel gears of some form and in bevel gears there is a lot more sliding action in the gear teeth contact compared to the mainly rolling action for the gears in your car gearbox. The sliding action can produce wear, hence the reason why saildrives normally use such high viscosity oil. I am guessing that on the small saildrives, the design is such that the gear teeth are not loaded to the limit and that is why they use engine oil, as obviously the thicker the oil the more power loss in the transmission.

Just do the job carefully and you should not worry about a leak at the drain plug and if you are worried then get a new washer. To make the job easier, check the oil level, weigh the amount of oil you drain off and then you have a good idea of how much oil to put back in.
 
I don't think it's just for the gears. Aren't the multi disc clutch packs very sensitive to contamination (i.e. wear debris)?
 
Check the oil on the dipstick carefully, ideally after running the prop and then leaving the oil to settle for an hour or two but no longer than a few days. If there is any water in the oil it will show up as a murky brown, mocha, colour. In that case you need to consider changing the oil and the seals.

If the oil is clear and yellow then I would not bother changing it. If it looks clear but going brown then consider an oil change but it doesn't have to be on the hard as just sucking out as much as you can and replacing will suffice.

If you do decide to need that you change the oil and seals, then I would leave the drain plug alone and just remove the shaft. The oil will come out.

Obviously none of this is manufacturer's recommendation but you can look that up if you're that interested. :)

Richard
 
Plevier said:
I don't think it's just for the gears. Aren't the multi disc clutch packs very sensitive to contamination (i.e. wear debris)?
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ITYWF that a 120SD has cone clutches but its a valid point for later types which do have multi-disc clutches
 
RichardS said:
Check the oil on the dipstick carefully, ideally after running the prop and then leaving the oil to settle for an hour or two but no longer than a few days. If there is any water in the oil it will show up as a murky brown, mocha, colour. In that case you need to consider changing the oil and the seals.

If the oil is clear and yellow then I would not bother changing it. If it looks clear but going brown then consider an oil change but it doesn't have to be on the hard as just sucking out as much as you can and replacing will suffice.

If you do decide to need that you change the oil and seals, then I would leave the drain plug alone and just remove the shaft. The oil will come out.

Obviously none of this is manufacturer's recommendation but you can look that up if you're that interested. :)

Richard
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I pretty much agree with Richard. Withdraw a sample for examination. It should be "clear and bright" and no more than a little darker than when new. Any milkiness indicates water ingress.

I might be tempted to do a crackle test because that''s what I would have done in my days in the lab, but it is a very sensitive test
 
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I changed mine last week after 2 years and about 120 hours running and it was clear and clean. I’ll be leaving it for 3 years and 200 hours - ish fo r the next change.
 
Seeing as the boat is already on the hard then it makes sense to change the saildrive oil and if the seals have not been changed for 5 years then probably a good idea to change them at the same time. The cost of a couple of litres of oil and a couple of seals is very small compared to the hassle of finding problems midway through the season and needing an unplanned lift-out. I appreciate that fishing line round the shaft or similar can happen anytime even just after you have renewed everything and cause water into the gearbox.
You do not need to pay Volvo prices for oil or seals - Volvo do not make oil or seals so just buy seals on line from simplybearings or similar, any oil of the appropriate grade and spec will be fine.
Just remember that oil and seals will cost about £25 max, with a couple hours of your time - a new saildrive will be about 100 times that price!!!
 
Why not change by pumping out through the dip stick. Won’t get the last bit, but this is the same way that we generally have to do the engine, can be done afloat, and doesn’t have any risk of problems with the drain plug.
 
Martin&Rene said:
you should not worry about a leak at the drain plug and if you are worried then get a new washer. .
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With all due respect that is seriously bad advice. I mistakenly put the wrong washer on my plug after refilling & it resulted in having the boat lifted in Cherbourg: the saildrive being drained of a lot of water mixed with the oil: after just a few hours motoring. the local Volvo dealer wanted to change the seals but a conversation with Volspec in UK resulted in a new washer & the issue solved. But it still cost me a load of money, stress & some time lost.
The plug showed no sign of leaking on dry land by the way. Water pressure made the difference though.
So a leaking plug is a definite NO NO
 
dunedin said:
Why not change by pumping out through the dip stick. Won’t get the last bit, but this is the same way that we generally have to do the engine, can be done afloat, and doesn’t have any risk of problems with the drain plug.
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You can't get a tube down the hole. It's full of cogs.

The OP has the same vintage saildrive and engine as mine. I think I'd probably change the oil since it's ashore. Although you only really need a new drain plug washer, an oil change set of three from Keypart is only £4.99 plus postage.

I also second the advice that the gearbox needs to be used before you can be sure the oil isn't contaminated with water if you want to check via the dipstick. Mine looked OK until I drained it out. Then it was obviously milky.
 
Thanks for your comments. They have swayed me to change the oil, even though it looks as good as the day I put it in! Unlike some the 120SB uses a flat fibre washer under the plug which used to cost about 80p. Can't find that online anymore so I'll get the Keypart kit, thanks Dipper for that info.
 
Daydream believer said:
With all due respect that is seriously bad advice. I mistakenly put the wrong washer on my plug after refilling & it resulted in having the boat lifted in Cherbourg: the saildrive being drained of a lot of water mixed with the oil: after just a few hours motoring. the local Volvo dealer wanted to change the seals but a conversation with Volspec in UK resulted in a new washer & the issue solved. But it still cost me a load of money, stress & some time lost.
The plug showed no sign of leaking on dry land by the way. Water pressure made the difference though.
So a leaking plug is a definite NO NO
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Apologies to you, it was my poor phrasing meant the statement could be read more than one way. What I meant was that if the OP had already considered himself competent to change the seals then withdrawing and refitting the drain plug should be within his capabilities. I agree with you, a leaking plug is a definite no,no.
 
What are these seals that need changing and how difficult?

I do my oil yearly as it only takes an hour and isn't expensive but hadn't realised they were was anything else that should be replaced. Oil looks good when drained and I've had the boat (1995 manufacture) for 12 years.

It's a 120s sail drive.
 
xyachtdave said:
What are these seals that need changing and how difficult?

I do my oil yearly as it only takes an hour and isn't expensive but hadn't realised they were was anything else that should be replaced. Oil looks good when drained and I've had the boat (1995 manufacture) for 12 years.

It's a 120s sail drive.
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They are on the prop shaft and stop oil getting out and water getting in. I don't think they are a routine service item. I've had them fail twice although the second time it was because they caused a groove in the prop shaft which is a relatively common problem especially if you motor in sandy or muddy water.
 
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