Volvo Saildrive 120S-D ¦ DIY Queries

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john0740

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I am considering undertaking replacement of the hull seal myself and have reviewed these documents to get a better understanding of the job.
(a) Workshop Manual Version A2(0)
(b) Installation Instructions Ref. 7748049 12/2007
(c) Volvo “DIY Manual”
(d) PBO article “changing a saildrive seal"

I’m looking for advice on the following ...

1. Fixing the adapter plate to the upper gear housing requires three socket cap screws while ten socket cap screws fixi the gear sections together. Should these screws be greased?

2. It seems that one of the hardest parts of the job is moving the engine forward (a MD2020 in this case) and the approach in this case would be to build up timber under the engine. Any tips for how to move the engine with ease (especially since I’ve previously has some back problems!)

3. Any other comments or suggestions

4. Also, could anyone point me to an article or instructions for changing the bottom shaft seals in the absence of the specialist tooling described in the Workshop Manual?

Thank in advance …
 
Changing the bottom seals is easy without special tools. The shaft on my drive had thrown up a tiny ridge leading to issues removing it from the bearings. I used emery and a press.

I haven't changed the hull seal but several friends have and report that it is a bit laborious but straightforward. And represents a serious saving.

Tony.
 
john0740 said:
2. It seems that one of the hardest parts of the job is moving the engine forward (a MD2020 in this case) and the approach in this case would be to build up timber under the engine. Any tips for how to move the engine with ease (especially since I’ve previously has some back problems!)

3. Any other comments or suggestions
Click to expand...

I've changed mine twice - 2001 and 120S (B I think). My engine's lighter than yours but I took most of the weight using a block and tackle system attached to a fence post across the hatch. The pull wasn't vertical but it did help. The first time I used my mainsheet block but the second time a friend lent me a 'proper' chain operated one. I slid the engine forward on a plank. I left the engine mountings on the engine which allowed them to slide across the supports. I had to take the engine right out of the engine bay as there wasn't space to get the saildrive out but that didn't make it any more difficult. Both times I needed help to realign the gearbox input shaft to the engine when refitting.
 
I've done this on my very similar 120S-E and MD22 (250kg all together). All very doable.

john0740 said:
1. Fixing the adapter plate to the upper gear housing requires three socket cap screws while ten socket cap screws fixi the gear sections together. Should these screws be greased?
Click to expand...

I've put a bit of lithium grease on mine to facilitate the next service in 15 years. Then torqued them up as per the manual and installed the seizing wire supplied in the service kit.

john0740 said:
2. It seems that one of the hardest parts of the job is moving the engine forward (a MD2020 in this case) and the approach in this case would be to build up timber under the engine. Any tips for how to move the engine with ease (especially since I’ve previously has some back problems!)
Click to expand...

I jammed a thick hardwood plank under the flywheel housing, which kept the engine rear end from falling down as it pulled off the gearbox. For reconnecting it, I then drove wooden wedges in on both sides to raise it back to the right level. Worked well, although the shape of my engine bearers/stringers was very helpful there.

For actually hauling the engine forward the necessary 5cm (or thereabouts), I removed the bearer bolts, tied a rope around one engine leg, led it forward around the compression post (padded with some rags to protect it) and back around the other engine leg, then back onto itself with a rolling hitch. Now I could simply stand in the middle of the main cabin and heave up on both ropes, giving me a large mechanical advantage, then sliding the rolling hitch forward to tighten up the rope and repeat. Made easy work of the job. There was enough space on the engine bearer for it to slide forward without slipping off. To shove it back, I just braced my legs against the cabin table forward leg, arms against something sturdy on the engine, and pushed like a gorilla - just enough to engage the saildrive bolts and gearbox shaft, then pull them together with the bolts.

engine_pull.jpg


john0740 said:
4. Also, could anyone point me to an article or instructions for changing the bottom shaft seals in the absence of the specialist tooling described in the Workshop Manual?
Click to expand...

Ah, I too wondered about that, as I couldn't get the thing open myself. So I took the leg under my arm and wandered into the local Volvo shop, sheepishly asking if I could borrow their Volvo special shaft removal slide hammer tool as depicted in the manual. They said sure, but couldn't actually find the thing. No problem though, he tapped the crack between leg and shaft housing a few times with a cold chisel and it popped right out. No special tools needed (and no real damage to parts either) :)

Good luck!
 
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I' always removie the bearing housing and propshaft from the saildrive first ( just two screws) as then you can just pull the drive up vertically without having to angle it backwards to get the propshaft through the hole in the hull. Then refit with new seals when the drive is back in the boat again.
 
You ask about the effort involved in pulling the engine forward. I chocked mine with timber beneath the sump, undid the mount bolts, sat of the floor and simply heaved. I am no gorilla at all and I was very surprised how easily it slid forward. Lifting the saildrive leg into the boat is hard - it's pretty heavy, but much easier if you've got a pal beneath the boat who can heave it upwards from out there.
 
I did the large diaphragm seal about six years ago on the MD2040 with 120SD leg.

Putting the bolts back in I cleaned them up (brass wire brush) and a small dot of copper grease, again to hopefully make them easier to remove next time.

As to sliding the engine forwards. I had over the previous few years replaced all the hoses (fuel and coolant) and made each a few inches longer so that I'd not have to disconnect anything at the time of the engine move.

To make the sliding easy, I bought about four of those cheap white plastic (large thick) chopping boards and slid them under the engine. To raise the height of them I pushed some of the wedge shaped wooden boatyard chocks in from each side.

The chopping boards are so slippery against each other it didn't take any effort to slide the engine forward, but more importantly, on sliding it back it was easy to re-align left/right and to straighten it up if needed.

As to the lower seals... After you have undone the two screws holding the cover plate on, as you withdraw the shaft assembly, grip it well in your hands. As it comes out you'll very suddenly find the inner end of the shaft is not supprted - and it's not good letting the gear knock the casing as it drops.

I've changed the seals every few years just to be sure - To push them out I have a large socket that is just right to fit into the hole from the outside and push the bearings out. I'm sure it's a 37mm impact socket. I'll check next time on board unless I can find a photo before then.

Hope this helps. As others have said, it's not a hard job - just keep things clean and follow the PBO article.
 
To maneuver my md2020 I used blocks of wood & an 18 inch long nail bar to gently lever it back & forth about 3 inches.
It was 6 years ago that I did it & I seem to recall that somewhere in the system I needed an 18 inch length of half inch rod through the saildrive supported on blocks to help re alignment. The nail bar helped adjust this gently as well.
 
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