Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Tam 63 versus D6 which is best and which is best for working on yourself
Volvo ,s which one
- Thread starter Seastoke
- Start date
alt
Well-Known Member
Granted I have no experience of these exact engines, but the main reason I stick with the KAD's is that I know I can do pretty much all the work myself (or with the help of a local / friend) as no 'dealer only' diagnostics.
This isin't me being a tight-wad, but there just isin't anyone locally who is a Volvo agent / dealer / mechanic.
I dread the day I sell my KAD boat.
This isin't me being a tight-wad, but there just isin't anyone locally who is a Volvo agent / dealer / mechanic.
I dread the day I sell my KAD boat.
[2068]
...
I do most of the work on my D4's myself, apart from the gaiters on the drives, because the drives are too heavy for me without some sort of trolley.
None of the regular service items need electronic gizmos.
Of course, there are some problems that would need a dealer with a Vodia to sort out, but none of them have happened to me yet.
Generally if you get a code, it means something physical has gone wrong.
e.g. stuck gear actuator or cable, overheating, duff battery, water in bellows, water in fuel.
Or it nags you if it detects low coolant, low oil etc.
Having said that, the wiring diagram is very complicated!
None of the regular service items need electronic gizmos.
Of course, there are some problems that would need a dealer with a Vodia to sort out, but none of them have happened to me yet.
Generally if you get a code, it means something physical has gone wrong.
e.g. stuck gear actuator or cable, overheating, duff battery, water in bellows, water in fuel.
Or it nags you if it detects low coolant, low oil etc.
Having said that, the wiring diagram is very complicated!
[2068]
...
Personally, I would go with the newer D6.
Smoother, no smoke, engine still in production so parts availability will be better in years to come.
Less maintenance - no checking valve clearances.
Bandit
Well-Known Member
The Volvo Penta TAMD 63 was produced up to about 2003 so a minimum of 16 years ago in two versions the L 318hp and the P 370hp. The TAMD 63 is a simple robust mechanical engine, shaft drive and gearbox only and provided regularly serviced properly maintained will last well. Parts all readily available except blocks and heads.
The D6 came out to take over from the TAMD 63 and is a modern electronic engine in about 2003 and is available in various power out puts in liesure boats from 310hp up to 435 hp. Its available as shaft drive with a gearbox, outdrives or IPS. It is a very successful engine, with electronics common rail injection and a very flat power curve and good acceleration. You cant rebuild a D6 as it has no cylinder liners so if the bore is scored you need a new block or short block engine.
The D6 came out to take over from the TAMD 63 and is a modern electronic engine in about 2003 and is available in various power out puts in liesure boats from 310hp up to 435 hp. Its available as shaft drive with a gearbox, outdrives or IPS. It is a very successful engine, with electronics common rail injection and a very flat power curve and good acceleration. You cant rebuild a D6 as it has no cylinder liners so if the bore is scored you need a new block or short block engine.
rosssavage
Well-Known Member
Depends on your wallet. I love my TAMD61A’s as they are totally mechanical and therfore easy to repair myself. The TAMD61A is the earlier version of the TAMD63 (same block, different cooling system, ancillary drive and turbos)
Another bonus - once a TAMD is running, it needs no electricity to keep it going. The D6 being CR and fully electronic is a more efficient, cleaner, smoother motor, but I simply couldn’t afford to repair one if it failed.
Another bonus - once a TAMD is running, it needs no electricity to keep it going. The D6 being CR and fully electronic is a more efficient, cleaner, smoother motor, but I simply couldn’t afford to repair one if it failed.
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
If you go down the genuine parts route to service the 63 is slightly more in parts to service than the D6 , however if you blow the D6 your looking at 12k for a short motor , where you can rebuild the 63 in parts for 4K . Down to how big your wallet is. Of late a few D6 intercoolers have failed requires a long block to rectify , never had 63 fail that way yet .