volvo ready mixed coolant

jon and michie

jon and michie

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Hi - I am just checking if I have this correct.
Do I need 20 litres of Volvo ready mixed green coolant to do my kad 300 engine?
if so who apart from Volvo can supply it as I have tried google but only showing 5ltr ready mixed.

any help appreciated
Jon
 
Volvo trucks perhaps ? Check actual spec offered
VP used to do undiluted but if you look at the protection offered on the premix there may still be some room for further dilution
 
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I have been through this so learn from my mistake. I have D6-350s and each engines takes approximately 4.4 gallons or 16.5 liters. The Volvo Green read-mix coolant is only rated to -11 degrees Fahrenheit. I live in Minnesota and so needed better freeze protection.

Of course I didn't realize this at the time of my coolant change and ended up doing it a second time. I ended up replacing it with Valvoline Zerex Original Green ready-mix (ZXRU1) which is good to -35 degrees Fahrenheit.
 
Advantage said:
I have been through this so learn from my mistake. I have D6-350s and each engines takes approximately 4.4 gallons or 16.5 liters. The Volvo Green read-mix coolant is only rated to -11 degrees Fahrenheit. I live in Minnesota and so needed better freeze protection.

Of course I didn't realize this at the time of my coolant change and ended up doing it a second time. I ended up replacing it with Valvoline Zerex Original Green ready-mix (ZXRU1) which is good to -35 degrees Fahrenheit.
Click to expand...

It’s easy when you live in the Gulf Stream to forget about other environments that need a saw to go fishing in winter!
 
Out of curiosity what is different about the Volvo mix, is it as simple as an anti freeze additive ?
 
I doubt Volvo make antifreeze.
Last time I enquired their ready-mix wasn’t as ridiculously over priced as many of their other service products .

it may well be cheaper to buy concentrated ethylene glycol antifreeze and dilute with water . The colour may be blue rather than green.
 
Personally, I would stick with the ready-mix to avoid any dilution issues; besides, get that wrong and you could have overheating issues or freeze protection problems. That's just me as it's easy peace of mind. The Valvoline Zerex Original Green ready-mix (ZXRU1) meet or exceeds all the specifications for our engines just as the Volvo coolant does.

But, if you don't need the extreme freeze protection like I did, I would stick with the Volvo coolant.
 
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I have a KAD 300 and here is what I do:

a) Undo the inlet hose at the impeller house (The hose from the inlet of the outdrive).
b) Grap a 20 liter bucket and connect a hose from the bucket to the impeller house. Add water to the bucket and start the engine. Continue to fill the bucket as it lowers … let the engine suck plain water for 5-10 minutes to rinse out. Stop the engine.
c) Mix 5liters of VP coolant part number 22567206 with 5 liter of plain water in the bucket. Now start the engine again… When you see the blue coolant mix coming out of the outdrive stop the engine and you will realize all (except from very little) is sucked up.
d) Now you grap the inlet hose (that you originally disconnected from the impeller house). Blow back out as much as you can to flush out trapped raw water. Then you pour the balance from the bucket into the hose and let it run out through the inlet in the drive.
e) Done.
The engine is then good for -30-35. It works well in Denmark :-)

I always use the Volvo coolant as they claim they added some additives that is good to their engines. It is not that costly.
 
About Time said:
I have a KAD 300 and here is what I do:

a) Undo the inlet hose at the impeller house (The hose from the inlet of the outdrive).
b) Grap a 20 liter bucket and connect a hose from the bucket to the impeller house. Add water to the bucket and start the engine. Continue to fill the bucket as it lowers … let the engine suck plain water for 5-10 minutes to rinse out. Stop the engine.
c) Mix 5liters of VP coolant part number 22567206 with 5 liter of plain water in the bucket. Now start the engine again… When you see the blue coolant mix coming out of the outdrive stop the engine and you will realize all (except from very little) is sucked up.
d) Now you grap the inlet hose (that you originally disconnected from the impeller house). Blow back out as much as you can to flush out trapped raw water. Then you pour the balance from the bucket into the hose and let it run out through the inlet in the drive.
e) Done.
The engine is then good for -30-35. It works well in Denmark :-)

I always use the Volvo coolant as they claim they added some additives that is good to their engines. It is not that costly.
Click to expand...

You’ve described winterisation of the sea water side there, not a coolant change.

As soon as you start the engine next time, all that coolant In the sea water side will be in the sea. Is that what you meant?
 
seastoke said:
are you saying the piston liners come into contact with coolant
Click to expand...

He probably means o ring or seal at the bottom when the liners are pressed in .
Some coolants if not changed regularly with the OEM spec can lead to premature leakage of that bottom of the liner / water jacket seal .
So in another thread VP D6 and D4 blocks are mentioned as “ throw way “ because they don’t have pressed in liners .
They also aren’t obviously sensitive to the liner seal failure .
So in terms of durability in the real world .........who’s got it right ?

Some Cummins engines are prone to liner seal failure caused by not changing the coolant frequently enough, it does indeed go stale over time .
 
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