Volvo Penta Outdrive Bearing Tap
- Thread starter RCKWilson
- Start date
volvopaul
Well-known member
Yes , use the screws from the shift cover and screw into the post , spray wd 40 and work drive side to side which will free it off , Also insert pliers long nosed into screw holes and turn with large screwdriver .
ExcaliburII
New member
Not sure, but I think you're supposed to screw the bolts you have taken out into the other two holes. The bolts will push against the surface below and lift the thing out.
RCKWilson
New member
Hi Paul
Thanks for that. But what screws and what do you mean by post (bearing) ? I have removed the two large Allen headed ones and assume I need to screw something into the small ones? Or is there a screw in it already. It looks like 4ba ?
Cheers Richard
Thanks for that. But what screws and what do you mean by post (bearing) ? I have removed the two large Allen headed ones and assume I need to screw something into the small ones? Or is there a screw in it already. It looks like 4ba ?
Cheers Richard
volvopaul
Well-known member
Use the shift cover screws , there 1/4 unc thread
RCKWilson
New member
Hi Paul
You mean to screw into the two smaller holes? what actually holds the bearing on. The tricky think is that it's still in water. I have got the fork and helmet off easily. Trying to avoid lifting fees as its coming out at the end of season anyway.
What's unc thread? Sorry. Richard
You mean to screw into the two smaller holes? what actually holds the bearing on. The tricky think is that it's still in water. I have got the fork and helmet off easily. Trying to avoid lifting fees as its coming out at the end of season anyway.
What's unc thread? Sorry. Richard
STEVEDUNSTABLE
Active member
volvopaul means you use the bolts number 65 as a way to pull the "bearing" out .. http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744470-44-7642.aspx .. hope this helps
RCKWilson
New member
Steve. Still confused. Is there a Allen bolt in the two smaller holes. I have removed the two larger ones. If they are out and seems like they are as I find grease if I push a small screwdriver in them, what still holds it on the drive?
Cheers
Cheers
smiler
New member
There is nothing in the two smaller holes. They are threaded to allow you to screw a bolt into them which will then ease the tap in your picture and lift it upwards. As volvopaul says the screws that hold the shift cover in place further down the leg fit and do the job. Hope this helps
volvopaul
Well-known member
No Allen bolt in small thread, it's threaded to allow a puller bolt in, as I said spray wd40 or similar in thread and around post, screw in bolts or buy a 1/4 unc bolt with a good length of thread on it , this pushes against the drive and eases out the post, you can also use a parallel punch in the Allen bolt hole to tap it sideways this will also free it off.
[2068]
...
This whole thing would be much easier if the boat was out of the water ... "success" could result in the bearing popping out, and sinking into the mud.
volvopaul
Well-known member
The boats in the water ffs.
Hugh Foulis
Active member
I think flowerpower knows that; he was pointing out one of the potential hazards of doing the job not on dry land
[2068]
...
... I think volvopaul is expressing surprise in concise form at that fact.
dpb
Well-known member
Must say I am curious about what you are trying to do!.....and how you have managed to remove the fork without sinking the boat, as the spindle on the fork goes through to the inside......or is it one of those boats where the top of the drive sits out of the water?
Chris_d
Well-known member
+1 Curious, having removed the bush using the front cover bolt many times and am confused as to why you would do this in the water!!!??? I normaly only undo it prior to a bellows change.
RCKWilson
New member
Hi
Thanks for all the advice. Outdrives slightly out of the water so water cannot get in. I did think of that when I pulled the steering fork out but it was a calculated risk and I had a wooden plug ready just in case!
Would have taken it out of the water but for the fees and its coming out for the winter anyway. I just wanted to get it done quickly and cheaply. Appreciate that the bearing may find its way to the bottom but will tie string to the bolts prior to removal. It looks shot anyway and have a replacement.
I still don't understand how it's held after removing the large Allen bolts? Does it sit in a recess?
Cheers
Richard
Thanks for all the advice. Outdrives slightly out of the water so water cannot get in. I did think of that when I pulled the steering fork out but it was a calculated risk and I had a wooden plug ready just in case!
Would have taken it out of the water but for the fees and its coming out for the winter anyway. I just wanted to get it done quickly and cheaply. Appreciate that the bearing may find its way to the bottom but will tie string to the bolts prior to removal. It looks shot anyway and have a replacement.
I still don't understand how it's held after removing the large Allen bolts? Does it sit in a recess?
Cheers
Richard
MartynJS
New member
BEWARE! I quote from my Volvo DP-E Workshop Manual - "Remove the two screws (1) holding the steering pin to the upper gear head. Using two M6 screws 30mm or longer, install into the threaded holes of the steering pin. As the screws are turned in, the steering pin will be forced out of the steering pin socket and steering helmet bushing". THE THREADS ARE 1/4" UNC, NOT METRIC AS STATED!
Last edited:
tico
Well-known member
Er no!
On the 290 legs the threads were 1/4" unc but certainly on DP-E they are M6.
Screws on the covers are 1/4" UNC so altho they could be used on 290 legs they cant on DP-E.
I use 2x M6x50 stainless hex head screws kept for the purpose. works a treat
On the 290 legs the threads were 1/4" unc but certainly on DP-E they are M6.
Screws on the covers are 1/4" UNC so altho they could be used on 290 legs they cant on DP-E.
I use 2x M6x50 stainless hex head screws kept for the purpose. works a treat
MartynJS
New member
Curious! I stand corrected in that the manual says 'M6' and not 'M5' as I stated. I had crossed through the text and over written it with '1/4 UNC'. My leg is DP-E circa 1999/2000 (1.95:1 gearing) fitted to an AD31P-A engine (150HP diesel). Like you, I keep two screws for the job, but they are 1/4 UNC and came from an old Johnson outboard. I remember that, the first time I removed the leg, the M6 screws I attempted to use just bound up. I wonder whether the engine was imported - is it a possibility that US engines are different to EU stock? The boat is a Crownline (American) but I always believe that it was converted from petrol to diesel in the UK.