Volvo Penta DP290-d trim adjustment (or lack of)

FalconSteve

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Hi everyone,

This boating lark seems to be a continual process of fixing a problem and unearthing another to replace it, wouldn't you agree!

My boat was covered with a pvc tonneau over the winter, consequently there was a considerable build up of damp air with little circulation for near on 4 months. When I shut down last autumn the outdrive trim adjusted correctly on both drives, when I started the boat in February only the starboard trim was operative. below is a list of the steps I have gone through so far, along with the ever changing symptoms displayed by the trim adjuster.

DAY 1

No power to the trim in either direction, relays not clicking dashboard trim display dead.

I removed both trim relays and cleaned contacts, sprayed with wd40 and reassembled. Removed display unit from dash, disconnected from the loom, cleaned and sprayed with wd40. The engine was started and indicated low battery voltage (new battery was fitted at the same time). I decided to take the display unit home and warm it on the radiator to evaporate any residual moisture.

DAY 2 (1 week later)

Reassembled the display unit and powered up, trim adjusted down and relay clicked reliably every time the switch was engaged. No relay clicking on the opposite direction, display still dead. I swapped the relays between up and down and the other relay clicked reliably when the drive down button was pressed.

So I now believe both relays are good and turned my attention to the main wiring loom. I checked the connections at the alternator and sprayed them with wd40, reassembled and started the engines. The voltage still showed low on the port engine (12v compared to 13.5v on the starboard). I let the engine reach normal operating temperature in order to check for any other faults in the system (water leaks etc.). After about 20 minutes the voltage reading jumped back up to 13.5v and held steady. Drive still wouldn't engage up adjustment.

DAY 3 (following day)

Tried trim adjustment first thing, drive adjusted up! drive would no longer adjust down and display was still blank. I reviewed the wiring diagram for the trim system, it is a fairly basic circuit however there is a third relay listed, connected to the dashboard switch operation. I cant find it and wonder if this is the weak link in the chain.

DAY 4 (1 week later)

Display still blank, drive trimmed down and would not trim up. This was the start of my problems with the turbo, I conducted a sea trial as the drives are normally trimmed right down in daily operation so I assessed that there would be no risk in using the boat whilst unable to trim up. Voltage display was normal from the off so I figured the damp air had evaporated from wherever it had caused issue with the voltage gauge.

DAY 5 (1 week later, today)

Repaired turbo, started engine to check its operation and low and behold the trim display was working! It displayed the correct attitude of the drive (-5) so I took the boat on a second sea trial, the turbo was working fine, so on the way back to the marina I attempted to adjust the drive trim, It adjusted up and displayed the change correctly, however it wouldn't adjust back down. On arrival back at the marina, I decided to check the drive thoroughly as I had intended and raised it up to beach mode and checked the props.

So now I have the leg stuck up in the air, I still don't know the location of the third relay and I could do with some guidance if anyone has any knowledge of this type of problem. The boat is a Falcon 27 1992 vintage.

THanks,

Steve
 
Third relay in loom under dash panel , it's in the part that goes to the dash trim buttons if you have the panel type , or do you have them on the throttle levers ?

Have you also checked the main power fuse from the starter motor ?
 
Hi Paul,

Thanks once again for attempting to help on my threads. I do have the dash button adjustment switch type, mine are on the far right of the panel and the loom disappears down the throttle cable tunnel. I think the relay might be down inside this tunnel. I'll pull it apart next weekend.

As far as the main fuse is concerned the erratic nature of the up versus down operation makes me think that it might not be a. Blown fuse. If I read the circuit diagram correctly, each direction has it's own fuse, I was on the verge of thinking that the up trim fuse had blown until today when it worked. It doesn't make much sense to me that each time one direction operates the other stops, prior to today the down trim operation was strong for several weeks.
 
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Re the fuse that sits on top of the engine.
Not so dissimilar to your problems but I had an issue with one of my 290dp working intermittently and it was the fuse. In my situation the trims worked ok before going on a run but stopped not long into it. Turned out that as the engines warmed up and as the fuse sits on top of the engines the heat would make the fuse go open circuit. Changed the fuse, about £8 I think, and problem sorted. I know of another boater who had same problem with the fuse as me.
 
That's very interesting Kev, I would never have thought it! I think changing the fuse will be the first thing I'll try, gaining access to the transmission cable tunnel will take a bit of work and associated risk of damage etc. I'm quite happy to swallow the cost of a replacement fuse, even if it proves to be not related to my problem, it will be good to have a spare.
 
I had the same problem with a fuse as did my friend with a v42. About £10000000000 from volvo ( in La Rochelle to be fair to uk dealers) or about a fiver from Keypart.

White thing about 3 inches long on top of the engine.
 
Hi

I have just seen this post so may cover things already covered, I know the main white fuse on the starter was mentioned, there is also a spade type fuse on the power trim pump itself, although it might be OK its the holder that sometimes gives problems, give it a clean out, you mentioned the relays, most set ups have 4, 2 at the pump and 2 at the helm, its usually the 2 at the pump that give problems, once again remove, clean terminals and don't forget the holders and check all terminations at the pump assembly.
Check the power supply to the pump, terminations and corroded cable, then check the supply to the gauges/control side, this is not the same supply that goes to the pump, this is seperate and what confuses some people.
I hope this gives you something to go on and as always let us know how you get on.
 
Thanks jrudge, fuse problems seem to be very common, do you remember if yours was at the start of the season? I can't help thinking that damp caused by the over winter period has something to do with it.
Peanuts - I've heard many stories about these relays failing. I appreciate your input and of course I'll keep the group updated, after all it's through the outcomes that the historic threads have a valuable role for future problems.
 
Hi

The thing is I have never had to change an actual relay because it had failed, it was just the removal, clean and refit that sorted out the problem, and one had suspect terminal block so replaced that.
 
I'm afraid not, I brought in the wiring diagram and showed it to the guy behind the counter and he was able to give me the correct relay.
Next time I'm at the boat I'll have a look on the relays to see if there's a part number.
If you don't have the wiring diagram, pm me and I'll send it to you, it's too big to attach here.
 
hi paul

just seen this thread....i have issues with my power trim on a volvo 290 and i noticed your thread......the fuse you mention is this standard on a power trim for a volvo 290..ony have not noticed one....mind you not been looking for one either.
i have replaced both relays that goto the main power unit to trim the leg....but relays just click..any ideas?
got power at the switch and thats about all !!
going to meter them all out this weekend so might get lucky

regards neil
 
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