Volvo Penta Diesel Engine

Crushed walnuts ( yes really) sometimes are used to clean the turbine blades in a gas turbine.

Crushed nuts ( ooh err maam!:D ) are often used to polish metal parts which is the last thing you need with an engine burning oil. What you need is something to roughen up the bores so that they hold oil and seal the piston to bore. Cat tractor used to sell a corrundum compound if memory serves me right but this was way back when bore glazing was a major issue. I´ve heard of people using Vim in the air intake but this is just as likely to roughen up the main bearings and comes along with sawdust in the gearbox as a real bodgers cure before selling on.

If the OP is determined toi do something about his smoke then the best answer is to remove the head. This will allow replacement of the valve seals and valves if they are the problem, and if not a hone can be run up and down the bores in situ. From his description it doesnt sound to me as if the rings and bores are past the point where a hone can rescue things.

And if he,s feeling a bit diy, the above is easy to do yourself.
 
Crushed nuts ( ooh err maam!:D ) are often used to polish metal parts which is the last thing you need with an engine burning oil. What you need is something to roughen up the bores so that they hold oil and seal the piston to bore. Cat tractor used to sell a corrundum compound if memory serves me right but this was way back when bore glazing was a major issue. I´ve heard of people using Vim in the air intake but this is just as likely to roughen up the main bearings and comes along with sawdust in the gearbox as a real bodgers cure before selling on.

If the OP is determined toi do something about his smoke then the best answer is to remove the head. This will allow replacement of the valve seals and valves if they are the problem, and if not a hone can be run up and down the bores in situ. From his description it doesnt sound to me as if the rings and bores are past the point where a hone can rescue things.

And if he,s feeling a bit diy, the above is easy to do yourself.



Vim dos work
i have ues ( vim ) on a yanmar 1gm10 and i think its the best to ues
and had no problem useing it

1. run engine at hi rpm
2. put vim down air in take ( remeber to remove air filter )
the vim will work its self out of exsort when its finsh whit
and mite need to ues vim 2 or 3 times
and let the engine do the work
and wate for the resolt of no smoke :)
 
You do of course offer a personal guarantee that he will not knacker his engine using this additive? You don´t!! :eek:

I doubt there is a single major oil company that recommends using additives, nor a major engine maker.

Well i tried it for a few weeks in our old car with a dry sump and its fine.170k on the clock now.
edit....vim does work.
 
Crushed nuts ( ooh err maam!:D ) are often used to polish metal parts which is the last thing you need with an engine burning oil. What you need is something to roughen up the bores so that they hold oil and seal the piston to bore. Cat tractor used to sell a corrundum compound if memory serves me right but this was way back when bore glazing was a major issue. I´ve heard of people using Vim in the air intake but this is just as likely to roughen up the main bearings and comes along with sawdust in the gearbox as a real bodgers cure before selling on.

If the OP is determined toi do something about his smoke then the best answer is to remove the head. This will allow replacement of the valve seals and valves if they are the problem, and if not a hone can be run up and down the bores in situ. From his description it doesnt sound to me as if the rings and bores are past the point where a hone can rescue things.

And if he,s feeling a bit diy, the above is easy to do yourself.

Only from the last 20 odd years doing engines the last resort is taking the head off.....they are never the same again.
 
I doubt there is a single major oil company that recommends using additives, nor a major engine maker.

I'm sure you're right - doesn't mean it won't work though. I had similar experience in old car, smoking like a bandit, added jollop, did another 50k miles it. It was less smoky but not completely cured, kept on going though.
 
Watching this thread with interest as I have a similar problem with two TAMD71b's after using them on a canal for the last couple of years. However also have diesel bug so when that starts coming through the smoke changes from a slight blue tinge to white and eventually loose power in the engine until I empty the sludge from the pre-filter. Hmm maybe I should sort that one out first! Boating, always fun eh. Lol.
 
Watching this thread with interest as I have a similar problem with two TAMD71b's after using them on a canal for the last couple of years. However also have diesel bug so when that starts coming through the smoke changes from a slight blue tinge to white and eventually loose power in the engine until I empty the sludge from the pre-filter. Hmm maybe I should sort that one out first! Boating, always fun eh. Lol.

may be Vim will sort out the bug aswell
 
i had a blue smoke from a volvo engine the valve on the postiv crankcase vent was jammed open and vent box needed replacing as it was clogged allowed oil to feed into inlet manifold. New valve and box no blue smoke ,cheap to do
 
i had a blue smoke from a volvo engine the valve on the postiv crankcase vent was jammed open and vent box needed replacing as it was clogged allowed oil to feed into inlet manifold. New valve and box no blue smoke ,cheap to do

That is a very interesting point, with all my fiddling with the engine I did notice the there was oil in the cap on the end of the air filter where the breather from the crank is connected to the inlet manifold. I think I'm going to try disconnecting the breather pipe from the inlet and run the engine for a while and see what happens to the blue smoke.

I must have the cleanest oil and oilways in Swansea Marina but the bu**er continues to produce blue smoke. Perhaps, just perhaps Fergie Mac66 has come up with the answer......fingers crossed.
 
i find fixing engine all the time and how much will u spend on it fixing itwith parts
and u cood biy i new engine in sted of biying new parts

old engines ar good as moring bloks :)

I would agree with you but this engine has done a total of 1,300 hours which is nothing for a diesel with many engines going on for 6 or 7,000 hours. It can't possibly be warn out and there has to be a fault somewhere. I agree it could be an expensive fault but it might also be a simple one. I don't really want to have to face the cost of installing a new engine unless I have to.
 
if u no how to fit a new engingine ( if u wher bilind ) i no the engine wood fit reley good and saving bits off the old engine u need u will be ok
fiting a new engine and long as the wide nes of the engidie will fit and some find a justments u shood be ok ok :)
 
I would agree with you but this engine has done a total of 1,300 hours which is nothing for a diesel with many engines going on for 6 or 7,000 hours. It can't possibly be warn out and there has to be a fault somewhere. I agree it could be an expensive fault but it might also be a simple one. I don't really want to have to face the cost of installing a new engine unless I have to.
The MD22 and TMD22 both show blue smoke on start and sometimes a light haze when hot. It is normal on this engine, the compression ratio is low at 17 to 1 and it gives an incomplete burn on startup. The car version (Montego and Maestro) had a doofer fitted to advance the diesel ignition to do away with this. This engine was developed from the Leyland petrol 2 litre engine and is also known as the Perkins Prima M50
You mention that you only used a small amount of oil on one of your long trips. So it looks normal. DO NOT put abrasive in to the engine. When I, or other engineers do a glaze bust, we use a 3 legged hone which is pushed up and down the bore with a circular motion to make the CROSS hatches. If you put abrasive in you just make up and down scratches which do make the engine burn oil!
The secretary of the Beneteau Owners Association, Carl Targett, has a 381 the same as me with an MD22 the same as me. He had the blue smoke from day one on his and he actually uses road diesel to do away with the prob. Red diesel is a slightly "heavier" fuel oil than road diesel and this contributes to the prob. If you want to do anything then get the injectors serviced (about £60 if you take them out)
Am in Milford now on D13 if you visit, stop by for a chat.
Stu
 
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Well that was very prophetic skipper stu. I have finally given up and got a marine engineer to take a look at the engine for me. He confirmed what many had told me.....the MD22P is a smokey engine.

He identified that the timing belt needs replacing as there is quite a bit of slack in it and it should have been changed at 1,000 hours (have done about 1,400 hours) so timing is going to be slightly out.

Then he started the engine and I said "there's the blue smoke" and he said "that's mainly grey smoke with a blue haze perhaps". "What about the film on the water around the exhaust" says I...."that's diesel not oil". Diagnosis, dripping diesel from one or more injectors. Remove injectors and overhaul/replace if necessary and run a compression test at the same time to be sure. Otherwise engine appears to be in good nick. What a plonker I've been....should have got an engineer to look at it months ago instead of messing about and worrying. :o

Will keep you posted on the outcome of this work.
 
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Well that was very prophetic skipper stu. I have finally given up and got a marine engineer to take a look at the engine for me. He confirmed what many had told me.....the MD22P is a smokey engine.

He identified that the timing belt needs replacing as there is quite a bit of slack in it and it should have been changed at 1,000 hours (have done about 1,400 hours) so timing is going to be slightly out.

Then he started the engine and I said "there's the blue smoke" and he said "that's mainly grey smoke with a blue haze perhaps". "What about the film on the water around the exhaust" says I...."that's diesel not oil". Diagnosis, dripping diesel from one or more injectors. Remove injectors and overhaul/replace if necessary and run a compression test at the same time to be sure. Otherwise engine appears to be in good nick. What a plonker I've been....should have got an engineer to look at it months ago instead of messing about and worrying. :o

Will keep you posted on the outcome of this work.
Was in Swansea day before yesterday!
If I had known you were there, could have given you a knock
Stu
 
Was in Swansea day before yesterday!
If I had known you were there, could have given you a knock
Stu

We now live in the Midlands and keep our boat in Swansea......mainly because we came from South Wales and our mothers (my wife and I) live in Cardiff and Cowbridge....so we visit them on our way to the boat.

We are often down in the marina at the weekends. If you are in Swansea at the weekend, give us a shout.
 
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