volvo penta d3 turbo problems

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rikski

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We have had our volvo penta D3 130SX for two years (77 engine hours currently).
The turbo went within the first year and was replaced under warranty, then its happened again a year later! Anyone know why this could be happening, I cant afford this again!
 
Hi I have come across this so many times now.

Are you using the boat on inland waterways at just over tickover speed, this is what causes the problems in the variable vane system.

You dont always need a new turbo, they can be overhauled quite easy, I have had them done on the d3.

Have you fitted the new style air filter, that helps.

Are you using a dealer for the work? drop me a pm if you want an independent engineer, presuming your in my range.
 
Wow, the D series uses a variable vain turbo? MORE to go wrong.

I can honestly say i'll stick with my KAD's for as long as possible
 
D = DIESEL IN VOLVO SPEAK 3 is capacity
D3 They dropped the prefix letters some years ago D3 is a marinisation of the car engine but has now been replaced with a completely new unit but carried the name over

D4+D6 new common rail engines 4+6 cyl marine only engines


D9+D11+D13 truck based engines
 
Whats actually happening? Are you getting fault codes or is it just not performing? The most common problem (well, the only problem!) I have found with D3 turbos is the actuator arm (on the aft end of the turbo of it) if it doesn't move down - when the turbo is required & doesn't respond correctly/quickly enough by varying the vane angles (via that actuator arm & a small mechanical vacuum pump), the control system will put it into limp home mode. If it is happening periodically you may be able to save it, you just need to lubricate the arm and mechanism & ensure it moves all the way down reasonably freely - it should move as far down as the lowest part of the threaded section.

As I said, it should move reasonably freely (you'll need to put some weight behind it) but I had one not so long back that barely moved at all, this was removed from the boat & opened up, the collar inside that varies the vanes was seized solid & was freed up, after a couple of runs up & down the river the problem was sorted - regular lubrication advised for the future (its in the maintenance schedule I think). Although light running isn't going to help, we've found that sucking in salty air is the main cause!
 
I have never heard an gasturbine surge! I do regular surge tests on diesels When the air receiver is big and the boost is high (60psi/4bar) the sound is amasing!

With a WTG turbocharger in blocked in small area position i think you can have problems. WTG and wastegates needs care on boat engines.
Head gaskets pistons and bearings get overloaded with to high boost!

On the first porche 911 turbo the wastegate was under the engine! Salt on the road made these rust aswell. On a otto engine this gave amasing power for a while!
 
I have 2 x D3-190's (and SX duoprop drives) installed two years ago. The first turbo seized at 10 hours (stb), second at 50 hours (port) and now the third just recently (stb again) at 80 hours just shy of the 2 year warranty period. Warranty has covered them so far, but the agent has given me no assurances it will not happen again. The engines are installed within specification as checked by the tech last visit to remove the offending turbo. I have had several opinions, but made sure only the volvo service agent has touched them so i avoid any warranty issues. One valid point has been made... The seawater is in fact open to the turbo all the time. After shutting down the engine the turbo would be quite hot. Possibly the seawater vapour is condensing on the hot turbo and seizing the bearings. Would be worth checking that the engine is installed to manufacturers spec (cranckshaft to waterline distance, etc). I am still trying to work with the agent to get a "fix" for this issue. Not being a diesel mechanic, I am really at the mercy of the agent.
 
Garrett turbo

People seem to be getting more than a little stressed regarding the Garrett VG turbo used on Volvo D3 as well as many other automotive applications.

As I have stated before well known in automotive service centres, they treat the problem as a matter of course and clean the turbos in the shop on a regular basis.

Garrett turbo is a "swing vane" unit unlike Holset which use "sliding variable nozzle" arrangement.

The cause is buld up of carbon on the turbine base plate. Carbon build up is greatest when engine operating around peak torque which evenually causes the swing vanes to stick which leads to potential boost pressures outside engine operating peraimiters. However the all seeing eye of the ECU is given the heads up of impending danger by the boost pressure sensor, which reduces fuelling thus preventing engine damage.

Owners who give their motors serious "tight wire" will rarely if never see the condition, those who just tickle along at peak torque will have carbon building up on the vanes. Pensioners hit the problem all the time, reps and white van man are never afflicted.

The solution is straight forward if you feel comfortable strpping a turbo. 5 Litre can of brake cleaner, tooth brush, best to use somebody elses when they are not looking and fine grade ScotchBrite pad. Oh and dirty clothes AND protective gloves. Remember carbon particles in modern low emission engines are very fine and WILL pass though skin tissue. This also applies to doing an oil and filter change, modern oil additives and fine particles are all potentially carcenogenic.

Once turbo core is disassembled scub up VGT using toothbrush (wifes) with plenty of brake cleaner. Remove circlip from boost capsule operating link and operate little vanes manually, clean off carbon on the base plate with the ScotchBrite pad (nothing else!) and brake cleaner until perfectly clean. Re-assemble and fit to engine with new gaskets, do not fire up motor without pre-lubing turbo centre bearing. Also worth removing and cleaning boost pressure sensor with a little brake cleaner as it often becomes a little clagged up with oil carryover from the turbo, oil carryover can be another Garrett nausiea.

Hit the button, once all the needles are all pointing in the right direction go out on the water and give the little motor some REAL pain! Fault code will clear.

Take a look at;http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html

This site even has sexy animation of swing vane working.

Rikski, just remember, take time out when motors are nice and warm to drive them like you hate them, just think of the messy job facing you if you continue to treat them too kindly!
 
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turbo's

And keep hands away from inlet when running, note right ring finger,

4thjune2-10015.jpg
 
ReneJK said:
Great explanation ! , thanks for that
but with which oil do I need to oil the turbo center bearing ? , who knows , I might need to do this in the future
Click to expand...

Just engine lube oil. You just need to make sure turbo bearing is lubed before it gets pressure up the line from engine main oil rifle.
 
It's being used out from Hamble around the Solent, Southampton (all sea). The boat gets used ay full throttle 2 out of 5 times. Another thing is max revs is 3500, the computer alarm came on and we were towed back to shore, a mechanic then accessed the computer and told us it was the turbo, he also said we should be getting more than 3500 revs from this engine.
 
the thing to avoid with any turbo is a "hot shutdown" let the engine idle for a while before you shut it down, never rev the engine and then shut it down the turbo is spinning away with no oil supply to it. If they have been stood for a while try cranking the engine without it starting to get some oil up, problem is they all start too well
 
rikski said:
It's being used out from Hamble around the Solent, Southampton (all sea). The boat gets used ay full throttle 2 out of 5 times. Another thing is max revs is 3500, the computer alarm came on and we were towed back to shore, a mechanic then accessed the computer and told us it was the turbo, he also said we should be getting more than 3500 revs from this engine.
Click to expand...

You are now well into Green engine territory. Not sure of your actual power rating but from what I see they are all 4,000 rpm and your engine will be producing a LOT of soot being by being lugged well down below rated which is likely cause of turbo throwing a sickie. Tec was quite correct in giving you the heads up on this important factor.

I have no intention of delving further into VP stuff, not my balliwick. Volvopaul and others lurk around here and certain they will be able to sort you out.
 
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rikski said:
Another thing is max revs is 3500,
Click to expand...


then you should try a lower pitched prop,
the D3-130 should be able to make about 4000 RPM at full throttle,
I have two pairs of props, depending on usage, (one for heavy weight slower speeds, the other for light weight long distance,)
one pair does 3800RPM max
the other does 4100 RPM max
your 3500 is really low.

I am not sure if this has anything to do with your turbo problems, I''m not a specialist
perhaps as you are very often at a lower RPM where the turbo is not giving pressure.
I don't remember at what RPM the turbo starts boosting
 
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