Volvo penta d2-55hp

MagicalArmchair said:
Okay, so I was going to get the VP engineer to service the engine but a combination of loving working on engines, wanted to save my pennies for more toys and wanting to understand the engine before I set off on my passage back has led me to the conclusion I want to do it myself.

So the order of 'bits':

  • Run a bucket of antifreeze though the heat exchanger as above.
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Unless you are Winterising, this is pointless.

Change the following ;

Engine oil and filter.
Primary fuel filter.
Secondary fuel filter.
Raw water pump impeller.
Alternator belt.
If out of the water, the saildrive oil.

Question - What oil? The Volvo specific stuff looks expensive for what is it? Recommendations please?
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- Err this stuff? (https://www.parts4engines.com/lucas-magnum-15w40-engine-oil-5-litres/ - £19.50)
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That's fine, parts4engines will supply all of the other bits too.
 
MagicalArmchair said:
Okay, so I was going to get the VP engineer to service the engine but a combination of loving working on engines, wanted to save my pennies for more toys and wanting to understand the engine before I set off on my passage back has led me to the conclusion I want to do it myself.


Question, worth taking the Thermostat out to take a look?
Question, worth changing the drive leg oil? If so, what oil?
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Up to you regarding the thermostat ..... Looks straight forward enough to take out but exact location , I think depends on engine version....... How often do you take your car thermostat out "to take a look"

The sail drive uses the same grade oil as the engine....... use the same oil .... why buy two different oils when you need only buy one ?
 
PaulRainbow said:
Unless you are Winterising, this is pointless.

Change the following ;

Engine oil and filter.
Primary fuel filter.
Secondary fuel filter.
Raw water pump impeller.
Alternator belt.
If out of the water, the saildrive oil.



That's fine, parts4engines will supply all of the other bits too.
Click to expand...


Change, or at least examine, the drain plug washer. Edit: o-ring.
 
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MagicalArmchair said:
Thank will, I'll change the sail drive oil too and replace that o ring.

Whats the method for bleeding the fuel lines on this engine once you have replaced the filter?
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Lots of pumps on lift pump lever, try to start, if it doesn't start, pump again. I've never had one of these that's needed bleed screws or injector unions loosening.
 
MagicalArmchair said:
Whats the method for bleeding the fuel lines on this engine once you have replaced the filter?
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There's a big round black plunger on top of the engine fuel filter housing - that's the hand pump for fuel. Just press it repeatedly. The operating manual suggests you open the bleed screw on the filter housing to let the air out. I find that a bit messy, so I just pump a bit longer and the air goes through the return pipe and back to the tank.

It would be worth your while downloading the Volvo Penta D1 D2 Operator's Manual, which has lots of useful info.
 
So I went and visited the boat today to service the engine. I changed the oil and filter, got the antifreeze in a bucket ready to go, went to turn the engine on, and bam, battery was dead (curious as I had left the boat plugged in - the meter had ran out mind you as it’s a pay on a card affair).

I then noticed the previous owner had left the engine “on” button err “on” when he left the boat (I was unaware there even was an “on” button, the ignition I suppose just without they key). I had been on the boat for around six hours with power on before I tried to crank the engine. Some questions then:

  • Does having the engine “on” button on drain power significantly or do we think the engine start battery was just dead and the cold got it?
  • With that button “on” it showed the oil pressure light (well and the battery light!) - should there be a buzzer too?
  • The owner started the engine in neutral. My old Yanmar on Triola I started out of gear with some revs and the throttled back as the engine started (always first time!).
  • With no 1/2/Both/Off switch, once your engine battery is knackered, without swapping batteries around you are kippered. I ran out of time so I still have a bucket of antifreeze in the boat and no antifreeze in the engine :rolleyes:
  • Could the split charge thingy not be charging the engine batteries? The house batteries are fine.
 
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With having the engine panel switched on, there'll be a small load on the battery constantly. In addition to the warning lights, the alternator may have taken a small current too. So I'd think this could have flattened your start battery. However, assuming you have an EVC panel, there should be a warning buzzer to remind you to turn the power off after the engine has stopped.

You should be able to start the engine in neutral.
 
MagicalArmchair said:
So I went and visited the boat today to service the engine. I changed the oil and filter, got the antifreeze in a bucket ready to go, went to turn the engine on, and bam, battery was dead (curious as I had left the boat plugged in - the meter had ran out mind you as it’s a pay on a card affair).

I then noticed the previous owner had left the engine “on” button err “on” when he left the boat (I was unaware there even was an “on” button, the ignition I suppose just without they key). I had been on the boat for around six hours with power on before I tried to crank the engine. Some questions then:

  • Does having the engine “on” button on drain power significantly or do we think the engine start battery was just dead and the cold got it?
  • With that button “on” it showed the oil pressure light (well and the battery light!) - should there be a buzzer too?
  • The owner started the engine in neutral. My old Yanmar on Triola I started out of gear with some revs and the throttled back as the engine started (always first time!).
  • With no 1/2/Both/Off switch, once your engine battery is knackered, without swapping batteries around you are kippered. I ran out of time so I still have a bucket of antifreeze in the boat and no antifreeze in the engine :rolleyes:
  • Could the split charge thingy not be charging the engine batteries? The house batteries are fine.
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You do not say if this is the older type panel with conventional buttons ( Power on/off & engine start) and a conventional toggle, or rocker, switch for alarm test/acknowledgment and glow plug operation of if it is the more modern EVC panel to which pvb refers.

Presumably the former ?

Pressing the power on switch will energise the control panel, including the alarms, tacho and other instruments if fitted. There will be some drain on the battery .
There is a "buzzer"

The owners manual explains how the system should work. Download a copy from https://www.volvopenta.com/marineleisure/en-en/for-owners/your-engine/manuals---handbooks.html if necessary

If you have a split charge device, ie VSR or diode splitter, the engine battery and house batteries should be charged simultaneously. I assume from what you say you have dedicated engine start and house batteries with their own isolator switches. I would also expect to see a crossover/emergency paralleling switch so that the engine can be started from the house battery if necessary, but perhaps the previous owner had a set of jump leads to interconnect the two.

If you have dedicated batteries with separate isolator switches but no emergency crossover switch fit one. Do not be tempted to step back into pre-history by fitting a 1,2, both switch
 
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pvb said:
With having the engine panel switched on, there'll be a small load on the battery constantly. In addition to the warning lights, the alternator may have taken a small current too. So I'd think this could have flattened your start battery. However, assuming you have an EVC panel, there should be a warning buzzer to remind you to turn the power off after the engine has stopped.

You should be able to start the engine in neutral.
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Edit: I see from the broker pics of "Mirage" that you have an old-style engine panel. This doesn't have a buzzer to remind you to turn the power off. The alarm buzzer on these old panels seems to have a mind of its own, so may not always sound when you might expect it to.
 
Presumably you should have the engine battery isolator switch OFF (not just the panel) when away from the boat. And certainly check the engine battery is off when doing the engine servicing.
This avoids any issue of the panel being left on accidentally, and a key safety procedure.
 
Thanks for the responses. I posted separately on the Bavaria forum to see if there was an emergency cross over fitted, however, there is nothing and they suggested as an emergency measure, some beefy jump leads :).

There is only one battery isolator on the boat - a key that turns boat power on, effectively. There is some debate as to whether that just does the house batteries and not the engine and that the engine is always live (which would seem someone counter intuitive and bad for security). That would, however, explain why the engine battery was completely dead, as it would have been on since I left the boat a month or so ago...

Yes, I do always turn the batteries off when leaving the boat, and Vic, I will resist the urge to go backwards and install a 1/2/Both/Off switch :) I'll get the hang of the new boat. So much to learn - I spent about 40 minutes trying to trace where the bleeding calorifier was located (and yes, it was obvious in the end!)...
 
MagicalArmchair said:
Thanks for the responses. I posted separately on the Bavaria forum to see if there was an emergency cross over fitted, however, there is nothing and they suggested as an emergency measure, some beefy jump leads :).
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Get a switch fitted.

There is only one battery isolator on the boat - a key that turns boat power on, effectively. There is some debate as to whether that just does the house batteries and not the engine and that the engine is always live (which would seem someone counter intuitive and bad for security). That would, however, explain why the engine battery was completely dead, as it would have been on since I left the boat a month or so ago...
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I suspect you'll find that the switch isolated the negative, hence turning everything off. Easy to verify, look at the wiring schematic. Or, turn the switch off and see if you can start the engine, bet you can't.
 
duncan99210 said:
The Bavaria battery isolator is in the common negative feed: one switch and everything is switched off. I’ve got a switched link between the domestic bank and the engine battery for emergency starting, never actually had to use it but it’s there.
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Maybe on earlier Bavarias; newer ones have separate switches in the positive cables for engine/domestic/thruster etc.
 
duncan99210 said:
The Bavaria battery isolator is in the common negative feed: one switch and everything is switched off.
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So there is no way to have the domestic batteries on and the engine battery off? If so, that sounds a nuts design!!

I would want to be able to isolate the engine battery for a number of reasons. But if it is only both or none, then leaving the boat with say the fridge still on, the engine can be started and boat stolen.
 
dunedin said:
So there is no way to have the domestic batteries on and the engine battery off? If so, that sounds a nuts design!!

I would want to be able to isolate the engine battery for a number of reasons. But if it is only both or none, then leaving the boat with say the fridge still on, the engine can be started and boat stolen.
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How do you imagine that turning the isolator off will stop anyone stealing the boat, they just go below and turn the isolator on if it's turned off.
 
My 2013 Bavaria 33 has the electric isolator switch for the engine and it's controls in the aft cabin, close to the diesel line switch
It also has an isolator for the domestic batteries/electrics below the main control panel in the saloon under the chart table
 
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