Volvo Penta D1-20

1955patric

1955patric

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Hi all,
I'm having to replace the Volvo Penta 2002 in my boat and have been offered an almost new D1-20 at a reasonable price. However with the experience I have had with my last Volvo Penta, particularly the cost of spares, I have mixed feelings about the purchase.
I have no experience of these engines, personally, so would be grateful to hear from anyone who has, with regard to possible faults, weaknesses etc. The other options I'm looking at are a 20hp Beta and the equivalent Nanni. Any info gratefully received.

Patric
 
If the engine really is 'as new' then the spares situation shouldn't be a problem, all you will be looking at are service items.
Something I'd consider above all else is how easy it will be to fit. Will it be a simple 'old one out, new one in and connect up' or are you looking at a bed change, weight difference, physical size and so on. If you are doing the job it means it will take a lot longer, if it's the yard...well the meter's running!
 
mcw739 said:
If the engine really is 'as new' then the spares situation shouldn't be a problem, all you will be looking at are service items.
Something I'd consider above all else is how easy it will be to fit. Will it be a simple 'old one out, new one in and connect up' or are you looking at a bed change, weight difference, physical size and so on. If you are doing the job it means it will take a lot longer, if it's the yard...well the meter's running!
Click to expand...

Many thanks for the reply.
I'm not worried about the installation - I've checked the installation drawings for both engines and space/ fitting is not a problem. I'm a proffessional marine engineer but am used to much bigger stuff than this so have no direct experience of this particular engine. What I'm really after is information as to reliability, etc. I've googled volvo penta D1-20 looking for any posts on various forums as to any problems peeps may have encountered but there does'nt seem to be much out there , which I suppose may be a positive pointer. However, given my recent experience with Volvo Penta I'm nervous about shelling out a substantial sum for what may turn out to be another dog.
 
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the basic engine spares are quite reasonable some of the marinizing parts not so but this applies tomost engines now
The ease of installation is a big factor check out exhaust system and prop size etc
what is the history of the new engine and how comlpete is it would be the major items for me
I wpould expect a good reason for an engine to be changed nowadays and the only one that makes sense is to fit a bigger one but there could be others

The d1-20 is a much more pleasant unit to live with so that in its self is a reward
 
scottie said:
the basic engine spares are quite reasonable some of the marinizing parts not so but this applies tomost engines now
The ease of installation is a big factor check out exhaust system and prop size etc
what is the history of the new engine and how comlpete is it would be the major items for me
I wpould expect a good reason for an engine to be changed nowadays and the only one that makes sense is to fit a bigger one but there could be others

The d1-20 is a much more pleasant unit to live with so that in its self is a reward
Click to expand...

The engine overheated apparently, and one liner/ piston was scuffed. They are going to replace liners pistons and will sell 'as new'. Comes complete with gearbox loom and instrumentation as far as ai Know. Still waiting to hear about guarantee etc. As I mentioned, installation does not worry me. I will probably have to change the prop as this engine revs lower than the 2002, but until I have the specs for the gearbox I don't know. Having said that, I was thinking of changing my fixed 2 blader for a folding prop anyway so this is budgeted for. I will be checking the engine next week so will get a better idea then.
I just don't want another dog like the last one.
 
Hi 1955patric,

we have a Bavaria 33 and it's fitted with a Volvo D1-30, which I guess is the same engine but 29hp.

It starts first turn, is quiet (in comparison to neighbours' engines) has more than enough power and gives us a full tank of hot water and fully charged batteries after every use.

I am not an engineer so suffer some ignorance in this department, but I am able to change filters, impellor and oil myself so that's a positive too.

I'm sure you will get people more qualified than myself along in a mo to tell you about the finer details, but it gets my vote and I would buy one again,

cheers,

Andy
 
I have 2 x D1-30, which have been fine, and I have not seen any bad things about them.

(the oil pressure alarm occasionally goes off for no reason, but that is corrected by adjusting the revs a bit. Not a problem, but I would be interested to know if anybody else has the issue or if it is 'installation specific')


MD
 
AndyPandy said:
Hi 1955patric,

we have a Bavaria 33 and it's fitted with a Volvo D1-30, which I guess is the same engine but 29hp.

It starts first turn, is quiet (in comparison to neighbours' engines) has more than enough power and gives us a full tank of hot water and fully charged batteries after every use.

I am not an engineer so suffer some ignorance in this department, but I am able to change filters, impellor and oil myself so that's a positive too.

I'm sure you will get people more qualified than myself along in a mo to tell you about the finer details, but it gets my vote and I would buy one again,

cheers,

Andy
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Thanks Andy,

That's the sort of thing I was looking for. The fact I have not been able to find many threads on other forums relating to the D1 series engines seems positive, but I have a natural aversion to Volvo Penta after my experiences with the current engine, particularly in relation to the ridiculous price of spare parts. I really don't want to buy something which will require a remortgage every time I need to buy a widget.

Many thanks

patric
 
mobeydick said:
I have 2 x D1-30, which have been fine, and I have not seen any bad things about them.

(the oil pressure alarm occasionally goes off for no reason, but that is corrected by adjusting the revs a bit. Not a problem, but I would be interested to know if anybody else has the issue or if it is 'installation specific')


MD
Click to expand...

I understand from what I have read that this is not unheard of. VP recommend an idling speed of 850 +or- 25 rpm. If your idling speed is lower than this oil pressure can drop sufficiently to trigger the alarm. It should be a simple matter of adjusting idling speed to the recommended settings. If the alarm is still sounding at the correct tickover speed then it could be that the oil is not of the correct spec or something more serious.

Cheers


Patric
 
As other have said they are low reving / very quiet. So much so that I have gone to start the engine when it is aready running! It has been 100% reliable over the 10 engine hours I have owned it!

The whole air filter box needs replacing every two years at 60 odd quid :-( ... apart from that the comsumable spares prices are similar to Yanmar.

They have an electronic control panel which makes it impossible to wire ancillaries to the ignition key (cus there isn't one) You can buy an optional relay that plugs into the loom for a completely stupid price to power fuel solenoids / fuel gauges etc. My ancilleries were wired to regular switched 12v which discharged the battery over a few days of domestic use. I am going to put a red quarter turn master switch in the main power feed to the engine to overcome this issue.
 
As you probably know, the engine is a Japanese made Perkins and has only been in use for less than 4 years - so in marine engine terms a new design that will probably be in production for another 6-8 years. I have the previous (also Japanese) 2030 in a Bavaria and it has been fine.

Having said that I am just re-engining my other boat because the Yanmar 1GM was really too small, although it was the only engine that would fit at the time. Volvo did not make the short list, primarily because unless you get a massive discount it is just too expensive compared with the two main re-engine suppliers, Beta and Nanni. These as you know are based on the same Kubota engine but with relatively minor differences in marinisation. Pricewise they are just about identical, but Beta offer a wider range of options including custom mounts. I chose a Nanni, mainly because of what I hear about the need to keep on top of the heat exchanger of the Beta, and also because on the model I have they use a heavier flywheel so the tickover is lower. Blue is also my favourite colour - and that could also have been the main reason for the choice!

I have almost finished installing it, and so far have been impressed with how well it is put together with good acccess for the important service points.

In your position I would be tempted by the Volvo if it was cheaper than a new Beta/Nanni, reflecting the fact it is a rebuilt engine. Would not be put off by the potential high spares costs - not sure there is much difference these days, nor a need for much in the way of spares apart from service items.
 
Another with a D1-30,(2007) this is my fourth Volvo engine (actually it is a Japanese Perkins) and I like it despite the VP badging. As already said, good power output, very quiet, low vibration, high output alternator. Big improvement on 2003.
Downside- unreadable VP EVC system instruments,(MDI units replaced in general recall 2008, affected D1B and D2B) awkwardly located oil filter(stbd. side)
Usual never kept in stock VP spares policy and high prices
Fuel economy =2 l/hr at 2000 (cruising at 6.2 kts) 7 l/hr at 3200 (7.9-8.1) kts
 
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I have only had my DI 20 for 2 years but in that time it has behaved faultlessly. I believe there was a problem with the electronic control unit on early DI-20/30 models but I understand that has been solved.

The unit has been made to give more torque at lower revs than previous 20hp VP units so if you are fitting it to an existing saildrive you will need a different prop to get the designed performance. The new saildrives are geared to compensate for the lower engine revs attainable.

If you plan on fitting it with an integral gearbox to an existing propshaft the gearbox should already be geared to sort out the problem.
 
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