Volvo Penta coolant

[Solent sailer]

hello
I have no idea how old the coolant is in our D2-55 but as we have owned the boat for 2 years now it seems prudent to change it, any idea how much a D2-55 will need?
thanks

 

[PaulRainbow]

Depends on fitment and if the boat has a calorifier etc. Just buy 5lts from a local motor factor and mix at 50/50.

 

[VicS]

hello
I have no idea how old the coolant is in our D2-55 but as we have owned the boat for 2 years now it seems prudent to change it, any idea how much a D2-55 will need?
thanks

If you look in the technical specification section of your owners manual you will find that the capacity of the cooling system , excluding any calorifier, is 9.5 litres. If you have no calorifier 5 litres of concentrate will therefore be sufficient
Your manual also describes the procedure for draining the system

Volvo Penta coolant VCS ( Yellow ), which is an "organic acid technology " (OAT) type, is specified for later versions of the engine although the ordinary, low silicate type, green coolant was specified for earlier versions.

You should use the same type as in there at present, but if uncertain or if you change the type the old coolant should be flushed out thoroughly as the two types should not be mixed. In fact if changing from a low silicate or green, type to an OAT or yellow type it is recommended that the system is cleaned with an oxalic acid solution

If your tap water supply is hard or high in dissolved solids you should dilute the coolant ( 50:50) with distilled or deionised water. It is probably worth buying the coolant ready diluted if that is the case.

Any decent brand of antifreeze from Halfords, or your favourite motor parts supplier, of the correct type, ie OAT or conventional low silicate type, will be suitable. Again ready diluted if appropriate.

 

[Slowtack]

I am about to connect my existing calorifier (formerly used green coolant) to new VP engine (yellow coolant specified). Looks like I need to clean the heat exchanger coil before connecting to the engine and filling with yellow coolant. Any advice on the concentration of oxalic acid to use for cleaning the heat exchanger coil most welcome....and how long to leave the cleaning solution in there before flushing with clean water?

 

[RichardS]

I am about to connect my existing calorifier (formerly used green coolant) to new VP engine (yellow coolant specified). Looks like I need to clean the heat exchanger coil before connecting to the engine and filling with yellow coolant. Any advice on the concentration of oxalic acid to use for cleaning the heat exchanger coil most welcome....and how long to leave the cleaning solution in there before flushing with clean water?

You really only need to flush it through with clean water. In my experience, there is no problem with mixing IAT and OAT antifreeze, although I usually flush through between changes even if using the same antifreeze.

Richard

 

[VicS]

I am about to connect my existing calorifier (formerly used green coolant) to new VP engine (yellow coolant specified). Looks like I need to clean the heat exchanger coil before connecting to the engine and filling with yellow coolant. Any advice on the concentration of oxalic acid to use for cleaning the heat exchanger coil most welcome....and how long to leave the cleaning solution in there before flushing with clean water?

Information on this is a bit sketchy. If the link to this VP Service buletin works you will see the recommendation from VP there

http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/V...cification Coolant for all diesel engines.pdf

Some branded antifreezes are I believe cross compatible with each other but unless you are using one which says it is compatible with other types it would be advisable to follow VP recommendations. They are quite clear that if changing from VP green coolant to VP yellow coolant that the system should be cleaned with oxalic acid.

I think for just the calorifier I would just give it a quick flush / brief soak in something like a 5% solution and then flush well with clean water.

I'd not go to the extent of buying the kit mentioned in the service bulletin.

One forumite was recently quoted an arm and a leg, and more, to change the antifreeze in the whole cooling system from VP green to VP yellow for a new engine which the supplier had incorrectly filled with green!

 

[VicS]

]Information on this is a bit sketchy. If the link to this VP Service buletin works you will see the recommendation from VP there

http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/V...cification Coolant for all diesel engines.pdf

Some branded antifreezes are I believe cross compatible with each other but unless you are using one which says it is compatible with other types it would be advisable to follow VP recommendations. They are quite clear that if changing from VP green coolant to VP yellow coolant that the system should be cleaned with oxalic acid.

I think for just the calorifier I would just give it a quick flush / brief soak in something like a 5% solution and then flush well with clean water.

I'd not go to the extent of buying the kit mentioned in the service bulletin.

One forumite was recently quoted an arm and a leg, and more, to change the antifreeze in the whole cooling system from VP green to VP yellow for a new engine which the supplier had incorrectly filled with green![/SIZE]

Nigel Mercier managed to find a bit more info see http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...-Service-Bulletin-26-0-29-Coolant-Replacement

Looks like a 2.5% solution will be adequate

Also note neutralising with sodium bicarb is suggested.

 

[Slowtack]

Many thanks for the advice folks. I think I will skip the acid wash and just put a hose on the coil for a good long flush with water only until clear then let it settle and repeat until clear again. I dont imagine that much old coolant would adhere inside the coil pipe surfaces compared to the rougher casting surfaces inside an engine. I have used oxalic 5% solution for successfully removing oxidation staining from gelcoat and rust from stainless steel. However it does not remove dirt so I am not sure what effect it would have in cleaning residue inside the coil.

 

[VicS]

Many thanks for the advice folks. I think I will skip the acid wash and just put a hose on the coil for a good long flush with water only until clear then let it settle and repeat until clear again. I dont imagine that much old coolant would adhere inside the coil pipe surfaces compared to the rougher casting surfaces inside an engine. I have used oxalic 5% solution for successfully removing oxidation staining from gelcoat and rust from stainless steel. However it does not remove dirt so I am not sure what effect it would have in cleaning residue inside the coil.

I think the purpose of an acid clean is to remove the silicate from the inhibitor in the green type which is deposited on the surfaces. Other than that the coil should be clean. Maybe it wont matter if its not removed from the calorifier coil.

Nothing to lose by giving it a quick flush/ short soak in oxalic acid

 

[Slowtack]

Thanks VicS, that makes sense