Volvo Penta 2002 Overheating and No Domestic Hot Water

I had these exact symptoms on my VP 2002 some years ago and would suggest concentrating on engine circulation before turning to the airlock in the calorifier circuit possibility. First remove the drain tap at the base of the block on the starboard side (assuming you have a conventional set up). I predict that no water will appear and after clearing the blockage with a prodder of some sort ( bicycle spoke with a slight bend in the last 4mm approx enabling a push and twist action, and persevere here as it may take some time) go ahead with your descaling proposal. Rydlyme is the alternative to central heating descaler but are similar in effect. I circulate through the anode entrance and out through this drain. Then confirm the state of your distribution pipe as the holes in this pipe are known to become reduced in size and the descaler may not have done a complete job. It is relatively easy to drive this out of the block to inspect it either before or after the descale operation and be certain only to use a drift that only just fits in the block to ensure no damage is done to the end of the distribution pipe. Previous forum discussions also suggest that enlarging these holes will prevent further problems in this area. Be sure to refit the pipe with the correct orientation as specified in the workshop manual. http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf
Now recheck your exhaust elbow. When I first removed mine it all looked reasonably clear but the problem is not the main elbow exhaust flow area but the two 'Cheeks' either side of the main pipe that directs the water into the exhaust. These become blocked with a combination of rust and scale so a good dig around and scour initially followed by a good long soak in more of your chosen descaler. I finished off by using a long drill bit in a drill to ensure the oval holes deep in side the elbow are well cleared. Then with everything reassembled I suspect your calorifier problem will have disappeared and your overheat alarm will no longer sound. Incidentally I now monitor block temperature with one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1218...1=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=122&ff19=0
which means I can predict further descaling before the alarm sounds. Cheers and best of luck.
 
Bilba makes some good points, the other thing you could do is put 12" of 15mm flexible pipe on the two calorifier feed pipes so as to isolate the calorifier as a temporary fix and rule out the calorifier circuit.
 
Thanks for that, Vic
you are right...... scary price - 200 or 400 Euro for a bit of pipe a few inches long ?
Time to contact the friendly plumber
 
AntarcticPilot said:
Actually, I think the modification was done by Moody (it's my engine in the photo!).
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Sorry to slight Moody's work - I would have hoped to match that quality so thought it was a DIY job.

Bilba may well be correct - carbonate accumulation in the hot return to the exhaust manifold would have a similar effect to blockage/airlock of the calorifier, forcing bypass water to go straight through the perforated tube.
 
VicS said:
?????????????????

Twice in the thread you advised squeezing the large diameter hoses .
I know there's nothing I can tell you about internal combustion engines .... you told me that a couple of weeks ago ...... so wondered just what Id missed because i cannot see any. Cannot see any on the freshwater cooled version either for that matter.

What hoses there are in your car is irrelevant

It seems there's no need to get up early to catch you out. Just wait until you churn out some such irrelevant nonsense later inthe day
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Vic, this childish vendetta against me is pathetic. Will you please stop it as you are making yourself look so silly.

Thank you

Richard
 
Just an aside to this deteriorating thread, just because the copper pipe is au naturel doesn't mean it's not Volvo supplied. In 1993 I bought 2 X 2002's with freshwater kits which we fitted ourselves pipes were not painted green. I'll have a dig around in my workshop there might be a bag with all the unused pipes.
 
Hi Folks,

Many thanks again for all the advice and thought a bit of feed back may be useful. I took the hose off the copper pipe which attaches to the back of the thermostat housing and it was blocked with limescale/salt deposit . Cleaned the blockage and joined the calorifier flow and return pipes to some plastic pipe with 15 mm copper pipe . Then used a 12 v pump to circulate Rydlyme for a couple of hours . Reassembled and engine runs well . Also replace thermostat and noted that the flange around the old thermostat body which sits between the lips of the rubber seal were badly corroded

Cheers

Rob
 
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