Volvo Penta 2002 18hp - any more info

dylanwinter

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www.keepturningleft.co.uk
The bloke does not know how old the engine is - although he says it is younger than the boat

Volvo Penta 2002 18hp

anyone here have first hand experience of this engine?

D

PS I now know enough about squidgy foredecks

cheers boys
 
The bloke does not know how old the engine is - although he says it is younger than the boat

Volvo Penta 2002 18hp

anyone here have first hand experience of this engine?

D

PS I now know enough about squidgy foredecks

cheers boys

2002 was produced 1983 to 1993. Straightforward, fairly simple marine engine. No particular problems. Spares relatively easy to find.
 
I have a 2003, basically the same engine and running gear with a third cylinder. 24 yrs old, looks like new, runs like new, starts like new. They're a little noisier than new models but that doesn't bother me. Unlike the new models these were designed specifically for marine use so all the filters are on the front as is the water pump. No glow plugs or unnecessary electrics. Generally rugged and reliable. Each year I change the oil and filters and last year I cleaned the heat exchanger as the tubes had a bit of crud in them. That's really about it.Never let me down and if it packs up in a few years I will refurb it. A main volvo dealer is in my village and the mechanic there said they are great engines and informally said to be if it is serviced each year it should go forever and advised not to change it for a modern equivalent if it's running and starting ok.
 
I have one in my boat. It's proved reliable, and spares are easy to get hold of. Keyparts are good for service parts. As already mentioned there was an issue with the splines on the engine output drive shaft to the gearbox. Was supposed to be caused by lack of any shock absorbing mechanism as the engine was put into drive, over time it could cause the splines to shear off leaving you with no drive.
There is some good info on the westerly owners association website but you have to be a member(or know a member) to access the technical articles. The WOA site had info up to which engine numbers were affected. Think Volvo sorted the problem out eventually.
There is an engineering firm who make a modification to your shaft by machining a hexagon to the shaft and making a new drive plate to fit to gearbox.
Cold start is useful, full throttle- pull out engine stop all the way then push it back- press starter- reduce throttle once started.
 
Does it matter, if you're going to hoy it over the side and cut a hole in the bottom instead? :)

I had dinner with my dad last night, and he thinks you're mad too :D

Pete
 
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Loads around (1983 -1991) and fitted to many boats - loads of people hate them - loads of people are trying to replace them at the first opportunity.
Genuine parts are very expensive but there are plenty of cheaper options available (for the standard parts and service parts at least).
Locally we go to "versatile marine", they also have a web site and ebay shop (no connection just happy customer), or "keypart" (no connection just a happy customer)

The reverse gearbox (MS2B) spline can wear out at an alarming rate, the splines get eaten (that's a technical term) but there is a known fix (kit) which "versatile marine" supplied for us (no connection just a happy customer)
If the splines 'go' you won't be going! If it has an MS2B and not converted with a 'kit' this needs to be checked (in my opinion). Ours probably would have lasted another half season.

My experience of them is loads of vibration and movement especially at low revs, this settles down as revs increase, although it does tend to pivot around the output shaft so this doesn't take the brunt of it.
The lip seal for prop shaft to gearbox did leak a little, made worse by the engine wobble, but having pressed it in a little further it seems to have settled things down, maybe some wear on the prop shaft?
Soft mounting blocks makes alignment almost impossible, align it, give the block a nudge at it's out again.
Injectors can be fiddly to extract and replace, could require special tools as they fit into a sleeve which needs shaping when replaced. It is possible to get away without but you never know. We have been lucky so far.
The instrument electrics can be troublesome and the warning light circuitry are part of a sealed unit (expensive to replace).
The tacho doesn't always respond on engine start, needs a few revs to kick it into life (can be overcome sometimes without expensive replacement parts).

Easy to service, all the 'bits' are at the front apart from the bits around the back :) and the dip stick on the side.
If it starts easily it should be very reliable - we have never had any trouble with ours, starts first time every time.
There is a cold start procedure. Pull stop cable right out and hold it out, engage full throttle (in neutral), push stop cable right in, start the engine and throttle back.
As said, ours starts from very cold in about 3 seconds, once warm it fires up on first turn.
Easy to bleed the fuel (this obviously also depends on the fuel system).
Ours smokes a little, probably a bit of diesel getting through, but nothing to worry about. Doesn't use any oil. (technically it does use oil, for lubrication, but you know what I mean)

It's quite noisy.
Is very economical, about 1.5 litres an hour when cruising (2400 rpm).
Ours was raw water cooled, I've retro fitted fresh water cooling using bits and pieces, not Volvo parts, and it works very well, added a hot water calorifier.

Information about them is fairly easy to come by, manuals etc are all in public domain. Full part schematics available from "MarinePartsEurope" (no connection just a happy viewer)
Because it starts every time we can really rely on our trusty Penta 2002, although, we do tend to curse it somewhat. Mainly because our 'engine room' is micrometres bigger than the engine, having the main service components on the front is a real bonus.
The only thing on the back is the air filter.

All in all it has been a reliable engine for us, one which we can't wait to replace! There is no sense in boating. :)

Best place for it is over the side (or through the hole!)

Loads of people love them. (love might be too strong a word).

(Not to be compared to the silky smooth 3 cylinder variety)

Good Luck
 
Loads around (1983 -1991) and fitted to many boats - loads of people hate them - loads of people are trying to replace them at the first opportunity.
Genuine parts are very expensive but there are plenty of cheaper options available (for the standard parts and service parts at least).
Locally we go to "versatile marine", they also have a web site and ebay shop (no connection just happy customer), or "keypart" (no connection just a happy customer)

The reverse gearbox (MS2B) spline can wear out at an alarming rate, the splines get eaten (that's a technical term) but there is a known fix (kit) which "versatile marine" supplied for us (no connection just a happy customer)
If the splines 'go' you won't be going! If it has an MS2B and not converted with a 'kit' this needs to be checked (in my opinion). Ours probably would have lasted another half season.

My experience of them is loads of vibration and movement especially at low revs, this settles down as revs increase, although it does tend to pivot around the output shaft so this doesn't take the brunt of it.
The lip seal for prop shaft to gearbox did leak a little, made worse by the engine wobble, but having pressed it in a little further it seems to have settled things down, maybe some wear on the prop shaft?
Soft mounting blocks makes alignment almost impossible, align it, give the block a nudge at it's out again.
Injectors can be fiddly to extract and replace, could require special tools as they fit into a sleeve which needs shaping when replaced. It is possible to get away without but you never know. We have been lucky so far.
The instrument electrics can be troublesome and the warning light circuitry are part of a sealed unit (expensive to replace).
The tacho doesn't always respond on engine start, needs a few revs to kick it into life (can be overcome sometimes without expensive replacement parts).

Easy to service, all the 'bits' are at the front apart from the bits around the back :) and the dip stick on the side.
If it starts easily it should be very reliable - we have never had any trouble with ours, starts first time every time.
There is a cold start procedure. Pull stop cable right out and hold it out, engage full throttle (in neutral), push stop cable right in, start the engine and throttle back.
As said, ours starts from very cold in about 3 seconds, once warm it fires up on first turn.
Easy to bleed the fuel (this obviously also depends on the fuel system).
Ours smokes a little, probably a bit of diesel getting through, but nothing to worry about. Doesn't use any oil. (technically it does use oil, for lubrication, but you know what I mean)

It's quite noisy.
Is very economical, about 1.5 litres an hour when cruising (2400 rpm).
Ours was raw water cooled, I've retro fitted fresh water cooling using bits and pieces, not Volvo parts, and it works very well, added a hot water calorifier.

Information about them is fairly easy to come by, manuals etc are all in public domain. Full part schematics available from "MarinePartsEurope" (no connection just a happy viewer)
Because it starts every time we can really rely on our trusty Penta 2002, although, we do tend to curse it somewhat. Mainly because our 'engine room' is micrometres bigger than the engine, having the main service components on the front is a real bonus.
The only thing on the back is the air filter.

All in all it has been a reliable engine for us, one which we can't wait to replace! There is no sense in boating. :)

Best place for it is over the side (or through the hole!)

Loads of people love them. (love might be too strong a word).

(Not to be compared to the silky smooth 3 cylinder variety)

Good Luck

that is the best reply I have ever had on this forum regarding engines

brilliant

that is so good

D

so....how much is a 20 year old Volvo 2002 inboard worth as long as it comes with a video of it running
 
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I agree with all Tati B says and others. Just to mention that the Westerly owners club did an article many years ago on the spline problem. They had the engine serial numbers that was susceptible to the problem. My engine came within these numbers but when I checked it I found it was OK. For 15 years (I had the boat with the 2002) I always paused in neutral when changing from forward to astern and never had a problem with the spline shearing.
Another problem (IMO) is poor starting. This has been mentioned many times over the years on this forum. Despite having a fully charged battery and following the correct procedure for cold starting (which on the 2002 means you have to pull out the stop cable and push back in before turning the engine over) the engine would be slow turning over and was difficult to start. I took the starter motor off and took it to a (non marine) company specialising in starter motors etc. They found that Bosch had done a modification for the motor fitted to the 2002 which they carried out for me. I never had any problems with the speed of turn over when starting the engine after that.
Very reliable and economic engine.
As all the parts are freely available and it comes with the gearbox/ prop shaft or sail drive I would suggest haggling from £3k to maybe £5k
 
ashanta;4591725 As all the parts are freely available and it comes with the gearbox/ prop shaft or sail drive I would suggest haggling from £3k to maybe £5k[/QUOTE said:
Only in dreamland.
 
It's the wrong shape for your existing set up .
Your existing engine has big flywheel wider than engine bearers 2002 has flywheel in middle needing wide bearers!

I would not turn down down a boat with a 2000 if that was what was in it but if you have to alter the boat to suit it it makes little sense to buy one unless for peanuts
 
It's the wrong shape for your existing set up .
Your existing engine has big flywheel wider than engine bearers 2002 has flywheel in middle needing wide bearers!

I would not turn down down a boat with a 2000 if that was what was in it but if you have to alter the boat to suit it it makes little sense to buy one unless for peanuts

the boat I am looking at has a 2002 in it.... been there for at least a decade....it last ran two years ago - it was apparently winterised properly at the time

tell me more about the flywheel position

does that mean fitting a replacement will be a challenge

also...

fuel.....I am assuming there will still be some in the tank

what does diesel bug look like?

how do you dispose of old diesel?

D
 
the boat I am looking at has a 2002 in it.... been there for at least a decade....it last ran two years ago - it was apparently winterised properly at the time

tell me more about the flywheel position

does that mean fitting a replacement will be a challenge

also...

fuel.....I am assuming there will still be some in the tank

what does diesel bug look like?

how do you dispose of old diesel?

D

The flywheel and mounts are not a problem if the engine is already installed, but it is wider than other modern engines. However, many older engines are wider than modern engines so retrofitting invariably needs modifications to engine bearers.

When recommissioning after that sort of layup then change the filters and sample the diesel. If you are worried about it then drain or syphon it off and refill - take the old diesel to the recycling centre for disposal. Alternatively you can buy goop that disperses any bugs and this might be a good idea anyway.
 
the boat I am looking at has a 2002 in it.... been there for at least a decade....it last ran two years ago - it was apparently winterised properly at the time

tell me more about the flywheel position

does that mean fitting a replacement will be a challenge

also...

fuel.....I am assuming there will still be some in the tank

what does diesel bug look like?

how do you dispose of old diesel?

D

My comments were based on your long saga re MD1

Plenty of 2000 series about in boats so some good some bad
 
I just bought a boar with a 2002. Hadn't run for at least 2 years after it was just left without prepping for storage. When I viewed I asked the vendor to demonstrate that it would turn over uncompressed and otherwise showed some compression. He connected a battery, turned it over and it started. Frightened the bejesus out of both of us as the fuel cock had been turned off.
Started on demand ever since as well.
 
One vulnerable point on the 200x is the injectors and their copper sleeves. The injectors MUST only be removed (if neccessary) by the use of the proper removal tool. The saddle which presses the injector into the copper sleeve is not very effective and the seal around the injector is prone to leak. Black tarry deposits (easily seen) dry around the injector together with unburnt fuel and exhaust gasses. There has been several threads on these forums over the years.
 
the boat I am looking at has a 2002 in it.... been there for at least a decade....it last ran two years ago - it was apparently winterised properly at the time

tell me more about the flywheel position

does that mean fitting a replacement will be a challenge

also...

fuel.....I am assuming there will still be some in the tank

what does diesel bug look like?

how do you dispose of old diesel?

D

The flywheel is located between the engine and the gear box . Just like it is in every car engine that I have seen


Diesel bug exits as a thick sludgy layer at the diesel oil/water interface.

Drain off some from the bottom of the tank or extract some from the bottom with a "thief" via the filler ( I think thats possible on a Centaur).

Provided you get a sample from the interface between the oil and any water present you will see the bug if it's there.
If the tank has no water in the bottom it will hopefully be bug free.

Diesel does not deteriorate so unless contaminated can be used, unlike old gasoline which can give problems.

Local council tip may take unwanted diesel with other waste oil otherwise a try your friendly local garage..... or simply burn in your central heating boiler ???
 
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