Volvo Penta 2001 Help!

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PeterGR

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Hi guys,
Long time listener, first time poster here!
Looking forward to getting some advice and offering my own in return.

I have an inboard diesel that has not run in several years I am trying to get alive again.
I'm very familiar with outboards but this is my first diesel and I've reached a brick wall.

New battery & connections.
New oil and filters.
New fuel and filters.
New impeller.

Turn key and it is trying trying trying to start, I can hear it flapping away at the exhaust too just dying to start.
If it were an outboard I would've said no spark.
Where will I find the glowplug on the diesel?
Is this something that could be taken out and examined?

I took out the injector and as suspected it was bunged up and blocked.
Cleaned this but still no luck on starting engine.

Control cables are all good.
There's a manual fuel pump lever which seems to be fine too.
Water is flowing.

Can anyone give me some advice on where to try next?
 
Diesel engines are very simple things. If you’ve got enough compression and the fuel is injected (and atomised by the injector) at the right time, it’ll fire.

I’m a bit confused about your comment about ‘looking at an injector and suspecting it bunged up and blocked.” Checking an injector (and cleaning it) isn’t that simple. If you’re worried take them out and get them to a Diesel engine workshop where they’ll check the spray pattern etc. If is possible to sort of test them at home but not accurately. (When the injector pump fires the injector sort of ‘squeaks’ and throws a cone of atomised fuel out). Don’t put your fingers anywhere near it when it does this as the high pressure fuel WILL be pumped/injected into you and that’s REALLY not good... The injector has to be out to hear and see the spray.)

To get back to your problem. My money is on you not using the special starting technique for the 2001. Rather than explain it and potentially get it wrong I’ll allow someone else to explain that bit. Most diesels have preheat elements (to warm the combustion chamber up a bit to aid cold starting) but the 2001 series from VP doesn’t. Many good Diesel engines with good compression don’t need preheat unless it’s down at freezing or below.

My second guess will be lack of compression, but hopefully not as that’s expensive. There are tricks to get round this but please don’t use Easystart sprays as engines become addicted to them and won’t start without them at all.
 
Last edited:
The 2000 series cold start is as follows:
Advance the throttle fully.
Pull out the stop cable and return.
Return the throttle between 1/4 and 1/2 power.
Crank the starter.
 
PeterGR said:
Hi guys,
Long time listener, first time poster here!
Looking forward to getting some advice and offering my own in return.

I have an inboard diesel that has not run in several years I am trying to get alive again.
I'm very familiar with outboards but this is my first diesel and I've reached a brick wall.

New battery & connections.
New oil and filters.
New fuel and filters.
New impeller.

Turn key and it is trying trying trying to start, I can hear it flapping away at the exhaust too just dying to start.
If it were an outboard I would've said no spark.
Where will I find the glowplug on the diesel?
Is this something that could be taken out and examined?

I took out the injector and as suspected it was bunged up and blocked.
Cleaned this but still no luck on starting engine.

Control cables are all good.
There's a manual fuel pump lever which seems to be fine too.
Water is flowing.

Can anyone give me some advice on where to try next?
Click to expand...
 
Official start procedure; throttle in neutral, and set to max rpm,pull out and push in 'stop' lever.Hit start button, and be ready to throttle down the rpm when she fires.
 
I'm delighted now I posted this question - lots of very helpful advise in very little time!

@john_morris_uk
I took out the injector and it was full of carbon and the spray holes were blocked.
I put the tip into an ultrasonic cleaner and all holes are now clear and I am satisfied this is not the issue.
Is there a way to do a compression test like you can on an outboard?

I did consider there was just a specific start-up sequence I missed.
If anyone has any pointers on this.

@michael_w
Throttle and stop cable work freely.
I tried starting with throttle in forward but no joy.

@vic008
Is there a way to bypass the forward gear and increase rev to start?

@Fmurchu
I probably need to have another go at trying to bleed the air out.
I pumped and pumped that lever like an eejit for ages with the valve open on the fuel filter which is at the top of the engine.
Is that the correct location to try bleed from?
I gave up eventually. I pre-filled the fuel filter before installing.
 
PeterGR said:
Hi guys,
Where will I find the glowplug on the diesel?
Is this something that could be taken out and examined?
Water is flowing.
Can anyone give me some advice
Click to expand...

There is no glowplug on a VP 2001. The cold start procedure is described in the owners manual .......... Read it
It's also expained above

DO NOT keep cranking with the cooling water seacock open or you will fill the exhaust system with water which may then flood back into the engine. Then you will be in deep mire
( but be ready to open it as soon as the engine fires.
 
I too used to have this trouble with my VP2001. All checked out as in the OP. Then I found that the fuel lift pump was not working as efficiently as it should . Replaced that with a pattern part from Keyparts ( others may be available) . It started then, but it wasn't until I discovered the correct cold starting proceedure as outlined on here thet the problem was completely solved.
 
First RTFM
it would appear as you say you are trying to do something that is beyond your current experience
if the engine stops with the cam that operates the lift pump raised the pump won’t work solution is to turn the engine over
throttle control will have a button to disengage the gear selection possibly a red or orange plastic one at base of control lever they are notorious for sticking trying to start the engine in gear is also putting load on and will not help
replacing washers on the fuel lines may be needed as they work harden
trying a temporary fuel supply from a suspended can may also help
if the fuel lift pump is sus pect then removing it is simple then test the pump by operating the lever if it’s ok then you will also hear it croaking
if it is faulty then you will have to replace it but you will find it difficult to source but try keyparts
 
The 2000 series engines are only self-bleeding from the fuel filter - you have to get fuel to the filter by manually bleeding the system. There's a hex screw on top of the fuel filter fitting; loosen this and then manually operate the fuel pump (there's a thing like a trigger on the side of it) until fuel comes out of the screw. If the trigger doesn't move far, turn the engine by hand until the travel increases. Warning - this may take quite a while, depending on the length of pipe between your fuel tank and the fuel pump! Tighten the screw and try again.

Obviously running the starter motor will get fuel there eventually, but eventually is the right word!

I'd reiterate the comments about injectors that others have made - working on injectors requires the right equipment and a very clean environment. It's NOT a DIY job, and it's cheap enough anyway - just don't go to a place with marine in its title!
 
scottie said:
First RTFM
it would appear as you say you are trying to do something that is beyond your current experience
if the engine stops with the cam that operates the lift pump raised the pump won’t work solution is to turn the engine over
throttle control will have a button to disengage the gear selection possibly a red or orange plastic one at base of control lever they are notorious for sticking trying to start the engine in gear is also putting load on and will not help
replacing washers on the fuel lines may be needed as they work harden
trying a temporary fuel supply from a suspended can may also help
if the fuel lift pump is sus pect then removing it is simple then test the pump by operating the lever if it’s ok then you will also hear it croaking
if it is faulty then you will have to replace it but you will find it difficult to source but try keyparts
Click to expand...
There is a decompression lever on the top of the engine. Opening that will simplify the process of turning the engine over. It also facilitates - provided the sea cock is closed - bleeding air out of the system by spinning it over on the starter motor.
 
Are you sure compression is good? No valve stuck open?

Bleeding as mentioned above, the bleed point is on top of the fuel filter, front of the engine.

Next if you've bled the engine properly, crack off the pipe going into the top of the injector, as you turn the engine you should get diesel squirting out.

If its getting that far then its probably the injector.

Agreed with what people have said here, the injector isn't a DIY job.
Needs to be on a proper piece of testing equipent.

You can always give it a little blast of easy start, its not great for engines, but it will let you know if it will catch & run.
 
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