VOLVO MD7 Fuel return hose - Other owners ?

MengWalton

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Hello,

I've recently bought a boat with a MD7a fitted.
I'm looking at replacing the fuel return hose on it, its looks cracked and been a marine engineer on big ships and fires and all kinds of disasters coming into my head I don't like any form of deformation at all on a fuel hose hence changing it.
It was rebuilt not so long ago so would be nice to have it as it should be, so this is one of the last jobs bar replacing the entire raw water pump with a new aftermarket one.

The part number for the hose is 840264 its the fuel return hose. It has a 'Banjo' eyelet fitting on one end and goes to a standard connector on the other end that is currently going to another hose so this end isn't important as I will be altering it with a hose coupler instead. Its the Banjo fitting I need. However this hose seems impossible to find with no one stocking it.

Now the fuel supply hose is part no 840263 and looks identical just a tad longer, that isn't a problem however I do not know if the ID of the eyelet is the same and I stupidly forgot to measure it before setting off (380miles away) .

So my question is has anyone got any information that may help, has anyone taken the hose off before, does anyone have the Internal Diameter of the eyelet for the return hose. Does anyone know where I can get one or any help at all appreciated.

The ID of the eyelet on the fuel supply hose is ¬ 14mm

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7742080-23-13643C.aspx Its part 47 I require. The fuel supply hose I'm thinking should be the same is 53. My reasoning is that the return hose on such a small engine should be the same size as the supply however have the used the same size fittings!

Any help appreciated
Jonjoe
 
Take your old hose to a hydraulic hose specialist such as Hyphose or Pirtek - bound to be one on an industrial estate near you. They will be able to make you a replacement.
 
As the washers 49 & 55 are not the same I would suggest that the banjo is not either
ps the banjo bolt is described as a non return valve
 
Take your old hose to a hydraulic hose specialist such as Hyphose or Pirtek - bound to be one on an industrial estate near you. They will be able to make you a replacement.

I think his trouble is that it is 380 miles away!

As the washers 49 & 55 are not the same I would suggest that the banjo is not either

+1 but buying two new washers, which will be needed anyway, should give the diameter of the banjo
 
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As the washers 49 & 55 are not the same I would suggest that the banjo is not either
ps the banjo bolt is described as a non return valve

Don't know why I didnt think of comparing those!! Thankyou!, I would say you are correct, unless there of different thicknesses or a funny shape but very much doubt it.
I didn't realise the connection had a NR V/V in, I've never seen anything like that connection before however I only used banjo as thats what the guy at keypart called it haha good to know :)
Its annoying them using the same bore pipe and same connector on one end then a different sized connector on the end, I suppose it could be so you don't connect the supply to the return....? But i doubt it.
Looks like I'm going to have to remove it and take it to a local firm whilst I'm down there (Anyone know anyone near fareham/portsmouth) UNLESS someone knows where I can get one? Does anyone have any ideas how long the bolt it its looks quite close to the exhaust manifold.
Thanks for all the help
Jonjoe
 
Just buy some ISO fuel hose and it will fit onto the banjo tail, secure with with jubilee clips.
As the return hose it's not under massive pressure anyway.

The old hose can be carefully sawn off the banjo revealing a hose tail beneath.
Save yourself a fortune, and a load of hassle.

I replaced my original braided and crimped VP fuel hoses a few years ago and that's what I did.
 
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Just buy some ISO fuel hose and it will fit onto the banjo tail, secure with with jubilee clips.
As the return hose it's not under massive pressure anyway.

The old hose can be carefully sawn off the banjo revealing a hose tail beneath.
Save yourself a fortune, and a load of hassle.

I replaced my original braided and crimped VP fuel hoses a few years ago and that's what I did.

I would be intrested to hear more about this....

I take it the banjo has some sort of metal tail, that when the hose is cut around the edge of where its crimped is exposed? This if a new hose could be secured to it could be a very nice way of doing it indeed!

Jonjoe
 
I would be intrested to hear more about this....

I take it the banjo has some sort of metal tail, that when the hose is cut around the edge of where its crimped is exposed? This if a new hose could be secured to it could be a very nice way of doing it indeed!

Jonjoe

I guess something like this

GT35R-BanjoFittingKit.jpg


You could secure the hose neattlywith a single or double ear clamp (If it was your car it would be just pushed on with no clamp !)
 
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I guess something like this

GT35R-BanjoFittingKit.jpg


You could secure the hose neattlywith a single or double ear clamp (If it was your car it would be just pushed on with no clamp !)

Hmm I dont think mine are like that, however even if I cant just cut the hose off and use the original if I can find one like in the pic I could make my own hose up!
Mines like below - Excuse the dirtyness its before I started doing anything
 
Hmm I dont think mine are like that, however even if I cant just cut the hose off and use the original if I can find one like in the pic I could make my own hose up!

Your original hose just has a crimped metal collar over the hose where it fits on the barbed connection of the banjo. You could carefully cut through that metal collar, remove it, and use the original banjo as the basis of your new hose.
 
Use a Dremel or similar with a cutting wheel to cut through the crimped collar: the thickness of the hose will stop you damaging the barb inside the hose. Cut down the length of it, then use pliers to pull it open and remove it from the banjo. That'll allow you to pull the hose off the barb. You can then simply replace the hose and use a clip to hold it in place. I've done this with the fuel feed pipe and the return pipe on my MD2030 after the original hoses gave up the ghost.
 
Use a Dremel or similar with a cutting wheel to cut through the crimped collar: the thickness of the hose will stop you damaging the barb inside the hose. Cut down the length of it, then use pliers to pull it open and remove it from the banjo. That'll allow you to pull the hose off the barb. You can then simply replace the hose and use a clip to hold it in place. I've done this with the fuel feed pipe and the return pipe on my MD2030 after the original hoses gave up the ghost.

Sounds like an idea! I will give that a go next time I'm down there, if it goes well I think I will do the same with all the hoses aswell! Makes replacing them and keeping them in good condition alot easier!!
Quick question I take it you did this with the fitting in place? Tad worried about the heat generated although small and diesel is hard to ignight when not under pressure/atomised just me worrying im sure.... did you have any problems?
 
Don't know why I didnt think of comparing those!! Thankyou!, I would say you are correct, unless there of different thicknesses or a funny shape but very much doubt it.
I didn't realise the connection had a NR V/V in, I've never seen anything like that connection before however I only used banjo as thats what the guy at keypart called it haha good to know :)
Its annoying them using the same bore pipe and same connector on one end then a different sized connector on the end, I suppose it could be so you don't connect the supply to the return....? But i doubt it.
Looks like I'm going to have to remove it and take it to a local firm whilst I'm down there (Anyone know anyone near fareham/portsmouth) UNLESS someone knows where I can get one? Does anyone have any ideas how long the bolt it its looks quite close to the exhaust manifold.
Thanks for all the help
Jonjoe

I have two banjo couplings here from a VP MD2B and the non return stud is slightly smaller than the the full flow stud with each banjo sized to fit. The difference is about 2 MM smaller. This would be sensible as it avoids connecting the hose and studs the wrong way round and so blocking the flow, Ensure you retain the non return valve in the system if originally fitted.
 
Sounds like an idea! I will give that a go next time I'm down there, if it goes well I think I will do the same with all the hoses aswell! Makes replacing them and keeping them in good condition alot easier!!
Quick question I take it you did this with the fitting in place? Tad worried about the heat generated although small and diesel is hard to ignight when not under pressure/atomised just me worrying im sure.... did you have any problems?

No, I removed the unions. Seeing as the hose was going to be replaced, I simply cut the hose, removed the union, put it in the vice and used the Dremel to remove the crimping. Then reinstalled the unions with the new hoses. You should remember that the only part of the fuel system that is under any significant pressure is that between the injector pump and the injectors, where the pipe work is rigid tubing. The pressure in those parts of the system under discussion is fairly low and therefore a hose clip will be more than enough to prevent leakage.
 
Sounds like an idea! I will give that a go next time I'm down there, if it goes well I think I will do the same with all the hoses aswell! Makes replacing them and keeping them in good condition alot easier!!
Quick question I take it you did this with the fitting in place? Tad worried about the heat generated although small and diesel is hard to ignight when not under pressure/atomised just me worrying im sure.... did you have any problems?

No, I removed the unions. Seeing as the hose was going to be replaced, I simply cut the hose, removed the union, put it in the vice and used the Dremel to remove the crimping. Then reinstalled the unions with the new hoses. You should remember that the only part of the fuel system that is under any significant pressure is that between the injector pump and the injectors, where the pipe work is rigid tubing. The pressure in those parts of the system under discussion is fairly low and therefore a hose clip will be more than enough to prevent leakage.
 
No, I removed the unions. Seeing as the hose was going to be replaced, I simply cut the hose, removed the union, put it in the vice and used the Dremel to remove the crimping. Then reinstalled the unions with the new hoses. You should remember that the only part of the fuel system that is under any significant pressure is that between the injector pump and the injectors, where the pipe work is rigid tubing. The pressure in those parts of the system under discussion is fairly low and therefore a hose clip will be more than enough to prevent leakage.

Okay thanks, oh yes I realize that it isn't under any pressure well there is a tad when running but nothing when stopped. I was more worried about igniting any renaming fuel in the line.
With abit of luck I wont have to take the exhaust manifold off to get the retaining bolt out. It is close and its getting closer in my head as I cant see it atm!!
 
Although there's no pressure, if your fuel tank is very full (and depending on installation) it may be possible for fuel to back flow from the tank when you undo the return hose unions.
Easy solution is to have something handy to plug the end whilst you work on the removed hose.

From your photo posted earlier it looks to me like it definitely has a hose tail underneath so you should be fine re-using the banjo fitting.
No need to use crimped ends, jubilee clips are accepted as perfectly OK for the BSS so therefore OK for anywhere really. The main thing to ensure is tha you use proper ISO BS EN fuel hose. Sorry can't remember the standard number, I'm not that much of an anorak.!
 
Although there's no pressure, if your fuel tank is very full (and depending on installation) it may be possible for fuel to back flow from the tank when you undo the return hose unions.
Easy solution is to have something handy to plug the end whilst you work on the removed hose.

From your photo posted earlier it looks to me like it definitely has a hose tail underneath so you should be fine re-using the banjo fitting.
No need to use crimped ends, jubilee clips are accepted as perfectly OK for the BSS so therefore OK for anywhere really. The main thing to ensure is tha you use proper ISO BS EN fuel hose. Sorry can't remember the standard number, I'm not that much of an anorak.!

Thanks, I normally keep a couple of golf 'T' shaped plugs around from using them at work. I plan on emptying the tank and cleaning it. I basically dismantling and renewing the whole system bar the tank as its plastic and in good condition :) Like you I have the number written it down somewhere but cant remember it off the top of my head!
 
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