Volvo MD 2040 Raw Water Pump

[Kinsale373]

I Ran the engine for 2 hours on Paddy's night last week for our Parade of Light around Kinsale Harbour-good fun but discovered a couple of litres of water in the bilge under the engine afterwards. It seems to be coming from the back of the Raw water pump. I stripped out the impeller and can see the seals behind where the impeller fits. A quick search on the intenet and I found a few people who had replaced the seals and re built the pump assembly. I think that a few of you guys on this site have done it in the past.
My Questions are .

It seems like there are just 4 retaining studs holding the pump assembly to the engine..When removing the pump do you get a flood of Engine oil out of the ope? Should the Engine Oil be drained first?
Am I correct in thinking that it is just these 4 studs holding the assembly in place? Doesthe pump assembly come off easily? Any special tools required? I see mention that the retaining studs are a pain to access on the 2020 , are they ok on the 2040?

Looking at the internet , it seems to require just a 3 jaw pullers to strip down the assembly, ie remove the pump housing from the shaft and also the bearings if required, is it straight forward?

I see a few people have gone to a local bearing supplier and purchased standard Seals and Bearing parts off the shelf from the likes of SKF instead of going to Volvo P. Does this work out ok?

Any suggestions welcome?

Regards, Kinsale 373

 

[john_morris_uk]

I did this job a few years ago on a Volvo 2040. There’s no rush of engine oil out of the engine when you remove the pump although the studs holding it in place are a little bit awkward to get to if you haven’t got easy access to the starboard side of the engine. I don’t recall there being any particular difficulty in removing the seals or the shaft and stripping the pump down. I think I bought the official kit but I see no reason why you shouldn’t use bearings from a bearing supplier if you explain the context and make sure they’re the right quality.

 

[SteveA]

I Ran the engine for 2 hours on Paddy's night last week for our Parade of Light around Kinsale Harbour-good fun but discovered a couple of litres of water in the bilge under the engine afterwards. It seems to be coming from the back of the Raw water pump. I stripped out the impeller and can see the seals behind where the impeller fits. A quick search on the intenet and I found a few people who had replaced the seals and re built the pump assembly. I think that a few of you guys on this site have done it in the past.
My Questions are .

It seems like there are just 4 retaining studs holding the pump assembly to the engine..When removing the pump do you get a flood of Engine oil out of the ope? Should the Engine Oil be drained first?
Am I correct in thinking that it is just these 4 studs holding the assembly in place? Doesthe pump assembly come off easily? Any special tools required? I see mention that the retaining studs are a pain to access on the 2020 , are they ok on the 2040?

Looking at the internet , it seems to require just a 3 jaw pullers to strip down the assembly, ie remove the pump housing from the shaft and also the bearings if required, is it straight forward?

I see a few people have gone to a local bearing supplier and purchased standard Seals and Bearing parts off the shelf from the likes of SKF instead of going to Volvo P. Does this work out ok?

Any suggestions welcome?

Regards, Kinsale 373

If its the same as the 2020B I replaced the pump recently. There were no special tools needed but access is terrible. The two inboard studs are removed from the back and are quite difficult to get to - eventually I found it best to remove the engine support pad, supporting the engine with a wooden block. There is no need to drain the engine oil to remove the pump. For once the cost of the full service kit from VP wasn't excessive.

 

[38mess]

I replaced the seals on my Perkins M30 a few years ago, same pump I believe. No engine oil came out of the hole and I didn't need a puller. Just knock the shaft through, I think it only comes out one way. I took the bad seals to a local company and the guy didn't even charge me as he said they would cost around 5p. Make sure the little spring on the seal is stainless.
Good luck

 

[dankilb]

I appreciate the exact design of the pumps/seals vary, but I did ours a few months ago (not a Volvo engine - Johnson F5 pump) and no special tools required. Can’t remember exactly how (it was easy/obvious) but I also drifted the shaft out and also reassembled with rubber mallet, vice and some big sockets.

Make sure you get a seal with a stainless spring, otherwise you’ll do it again in a few years!

 

[Kinsale373]

Guys, as usual on this site , good information here. Always great to have a bit of advice from someone who has done the job. I might give my VP dealer a ring anyway. I think they do a complete rebuild kit including the shaft. Maybe take out the pump first and do an appraisal,
Thanks , Kinsale 373

 

[mattonthesea]

Bit more info here
Volvo Penta MD2020 raw water pump question

 

[38mess]

Guys, as usual on this site , good information here. Always great to have a bit of advice from someone who has done the job. I might give my VP dealer a ring anyway. I think they do a complete rebuild kit including the shaft. Maybe take out the pump first and do an appraisal,
Thanks , Kinsale 373

Parts4engines will have everything you need. Volvo dealer =£££££s

 

[KAM]

I changed the primary seal on a leaking 2030 yesterday. It can be done in situ. Just remove the impeller and poke out the seal behind. Press in the new seal by hand and finish with a blunt tool. It cured this particular leak in a few minutes, depending on how long and how badly its been leaking you may need to do a full rebuild but worth trying this first. Worth running a finger round the pump now and again to check for leaks which are not always obvious.

 

[Kinsale373]

Outcome,
I ended up buying two lip seals from a local Seal and O Ring supplier. I also purchased a 6 " bearing puller to take the seals and bearings off the shaft . This worked a treat and allowed a strip down of the pump seals and bearings with no damage.
The temptation is to try to fit the water seal from the front without stripping the pump out- I considered this. However the shaft just behind the impeller is wider than the the shaft where the seals and bearings sit. So ,it is best to strip out the pump and remove all seals from the engine end of the shaft , and then rebuild from the engine side. My Water seal was fairly rough looking and I suspect that someone might have replaced it from the front and forced it over the wider part of the shaft.
Anyway the replacement seals worked fine and I've run the engine for a couple of hours and no drips or leaks!
Happyness is a dry Engine compartment!

Thanks again for all the feedback, Kinsale 373