Volvo dripless seal - how to service?

[Mistroma]

Thanks, I really think I pushed the straw too far this time. I used quite a few straws to remove the grease and burped it a few dozen times and it stopped leaking. It was not leaking prior to me inserting the straw. So do you think I permanently damaged it or got some grease temporarily too far in where the water seal is?

Also, any idea where the grease needs to go based on the attachment I posed with the arrows? And would be awesome if someone can tell me how many millimetres or centimetres I should be inserting the straw.

Thank you.

I mentioned this point in earlier posts, saying not to push the straw in too far.
Volvo dripless seal - how to service?

I found that I was having to burp frequently after beginning to push the straw in further. I had replaced one seal and took measurements which led me to push the straw in further. I thought I'd been missing the point between the 2 seals when measuring the old unit I took out.
Volvo dripless seal - how to service?

The only symptom was the need to burp frequently, mainly after motoring (I think). I did about 2,000 nm that year with quite a lot of motoring. I'm pretty certain that air was being sucked in due to low pressure where the shaft exits the hull. No sign of a drip or need to bleed when anchored for days on end and normal positive pressure at that point.

No problems the following year after reverting to my original method of pushing the straw just inside the outer seal (probably around 5mm). I think that I wrote down the measurements somewhere but the notes might still be on my boat. My guess would be around the green arrow in your picture. Volvo's own documentation just shows the corner of the grease sachet supplied being pushed into the seal. That wouldn't be able to reach far inside the unit.

It sounds as if you did push the straw in too far, same as I did, but might just have been unlucky enough to damage a seal.

 

[mystery]

I mentioned this point in earlier posts, saying not to push the straw in too far.
Volvo dripless seal - how to service?

I found that I was having to burp frequently after beginning to push the straw in further. I had replaced one seal and took measurements which led me to push the straw in further. I thought I'd been missing the point between the 2 seals when measuring the old unit I took out.
Volvo dripless seal - how to service?

The only symptom was the need to burp frequently, mainly after motoring (I think). I did about 2,000 nm that year with quite a lot of motoring. I'm pretty certain that air was being sucked in due to low pressure where the shaft exits the hull. No sign of a drip or need to bleed when anchored for days on end and normal positive pressure at that point.

No problems the following year after reverting to my original method of pushing the straw just inside the outer seal (probably around 5mm). I think that I wrote down the measurements somewhere but the notes might still be on my boat. My guess would be around the green arrow in your picture. Volvo's own documentation just shows the corner of the grease sachet supplied being pushed into the seal. That wouldn't be able to reach far inside the unit.

It sounds as if you did push the straw in too far, same as I did, but might just have been unlucky enough to damage a seal.

Thanks. 5mm sounds familiar. I wrote it down somewhere a year or two ago but cannot find. If you find your notes, please do update us. Makes sense that the volvo grease tube applicator tip is about the same 5mm but didnt know whether that grease tube was a volvo part for more than one application.

I dont know why I decided to push the straw so far in today. I went way beyond 5mm. Guessing an inch at least. Glad I realized when I was doing the second one, which seems fine.

In any event, no leaks/drips in the past 5+ hours. I do want to take the boat out for a spin tomorrow to verify it will not start leaking again.

 

[Jamie Dundee]

No idea whether mine has ever been changed or greased (19 year old boat). No leakage when on the mooring although I do have a couple of litres in the bilge after a trip out which I’m guessing could be coming from the stern gland. Maybe a good idea to fit a new seal during the winter layup.

 

[mystery]

Well no leaks over night but after touching its leaking again.

I see at: Stern glands there is mention of a video:

where someone changes it with the boat in the water. Unfortunately the video is now marked private. Anyone have it or can speak to what I might encounter if I loosen the bolts and try to clean out the grease I inserted too far, all while afloat?

Thanks!

 

[Shanty]

Surprised no-one has mentioned the RMTA seal (Axial seal RMTA-RTMO type). Its basically a Volvo type seal with a nozzle for injecting grease (no need for a straw) and a vent connection (no need to burp it). I've heard rumours that they are made in the same factory as the Volvo seal.

Shanty has one of these, after I destroyed a Volvo seal by forgetting to burp it. Its done three seasons so far, and seems to be an improvement on the basic Volvo type.

 

[Mistroma]

Well no leaks over night but after touching its leaking again.

I see at: Stern glands there is mention of a video:

where someone changes it with the boat in the water. Unfortunately the video is now marked private. Anyone have it or can speak to what I might encounter if I loosen the bolts and try to clean out the grease I inserted too far, all while afloat?

Thanks!

STOP. You need preparation before doing this afloat. I would only attempt it in an emergency. e.g. Major failure of the seal and lift-out not possible etc.

If you simply remove the Volvo seal it will leave a large hole below the waterline. The seal is the only thing keeping water from flooding in through the large gap between the shaft and the surrounding tube. Unclamping the seal and pulling if out would be a bad idea. I imagine you would be trying to refit it the instant it came loose and water began to flow. Certainly no time to try extracting excess grease and I doubt it is a problem anyway.


My boat has a P-bracket and the plan for an emergency replacement is to tie up in the safest spot or shallowest sheltered place. Disconnect the shaft and push it back to give clearance to remove the old seal. Clamp the shaft to prevent it slipping out. Dive under the boat and pack the gap on the outside by hammering in something soft and able to seal to some extent (rope, towels, etc.). Prepare everything inside, ready for a quick swap. You need to take care to avoid damaging or inverting the seals when fitting the replacement over the end of the shaft. Pushing the shaft outwards would probably dislodge the temporary packing outside the hull. This is a VERY abbreviated description intended to give a very rough idea of what is involved.

It might be more difficult with other designs where the cutless bearing is mounted on the hull and might also have openings at the side for water flow. Just a matter of working out how to plug the holes.

 

[mystery]

Surprised no-one has mentioned the RMTA seal (Axial seal RMTA-RTMO type). Its basically a Volvo type seal with a nozzle for injecting grease (no need for a straw) and a vent connection (no need to burp it). I've heard rumours that they are made in the same factory as the Volvo seal.

Shanty has one of these, after I destroyed a Volvo seal by forgetting to burp it. Its done three seasons so far, and seems to be an improvement on the basic Volvo type.

Interesting. I wonder how easy it is to get Elice Radice parts in the USA? Just sent some emails out to try to find out...

 

[mystery]

STOP. You need preparation before doing this afloat. I would only attempt it in an emergency. e.g. Major failure of the seal and lift-out not possible etc.

If you simply remove the Volvo seal it will leave a large hole below the waterline. The seal is the only thing keeping water from flooding in through the large gap between the shaft and the surrounding tube. Unclamping the seal and pulling if out would be a bad idea. I imagine you would be trying to refit it the instant it came loose and water began to flow. Certainly no time to try extracting excess grease and I doubt it is a problem anyway.


My boat has a P-bracket and the plan for an emergency replacement is to tie up in the safest spot or shallowest sheltered place. Disconnect the shaft and push it back to give clearance to remove the old seal. Clamp the shaft to prevent it slipping out. Dive under the boat and pack the gap on the outside by hammering in something soft and able to seal to some extent (rope, towels, etc.). Prepare everything inside, ready for a quick swap. You need to take care to avoid damaging or inverting the seals when fitting the replacement over the end of the shaft. Pushing the shaft outwards would probably dislodge the temporary packing outside the hull. This is a VERY abbreviated description intended to give a very rough idea of what is involved.

It might be more difficult with other designs where the cutless bearing is mounted on the hull and might also have openings at the side for water flow. Just a matter of working out how to plug the holes.

Thanks. I have gotten the leak back down to a small drip. I ordered a replacement. Hopefully arriving Tuesday and will haul out and swap with the boat out of the water. Probably going to change the other one as well.

Does anyone know if the grease goes on the new part before sliding it onto the shaft or only apply grease once the new part is in-place?

Thanks all for your insight!

 

[Shanty]

Interesting. I wonder how easy it is to get Elice Radice parts in the USA? Just sent some emails out to try to find out...

According to the Eliche Radice website, They have two agents in the USA:

FRANK & JIMMIE'S PROPELLER
200 sw 6th Street
Fort Lauderdale, Fl 33301

Tel: 800-228-6077 / 954-467-7723
Fax : 954-467-1159
Home: Frank & Jimmie's Propeller

ACCUTECH MARINE PROPELLER, INC
24 Crosby Rd. Unit #6
Dover, NH 03820
Tel: 603-617-3626
Fax: 603-617-3627
AccuTech Marine Propeller | Propeller Repair, Tuning & Custom Build

 

[mystery]

According to the Eliche Radice website, They have two agents in the USA:

FRANK & JIMMIE'S PROPELLER
200 sw 6th Street
Fort Lauderdale, Fl 33301

Tel: 800-228-6077 / 954-467-7723
Fax : 954-467-1159
Home: Frank & Jimmie's Propeller

ACCUTECH MARINE PROPELLER, INC
24 Crosby Rd. Unit #6
Dover, NH 03820
Tel: 603-617-3626
Fax: 603-617-3627
AccuTech Marine Propeller | Propeller Repair, Tuning & Custom Build

yes, i sent them both emails. was just curious if it would be like my Quick experience (also Italian-based Company IIRC), where there are USA distributors but none wanted to sell Quick products or couldnt supply. I actually tried sourcing something that was eliche radiche before and it was impossible, i had to go through my boat manufacturer, who had to ship from europe to USA, took months and was expensive with their markup. but we shall see!

 

[Poey50]

Thanks. I have gotten the leak back down to a small drip. I ordered a replacement. Hopefully arriving Tuesday and will haul out and swap with the boat out of the water. Probably going to change the other one as well.

Does anyone know if the grease goes on the new part before sliding it onto the shaft or only apply grease once the new part is in-place?

Thanks all for your insight!

A good smear of grease to ease it on without dragging the lips then a proper application once it is on the shaft.

 

[Beneteau381]

Thanks, I really think I pushed the straw too far this time. I used quite a few straws to remove the grease and burped it a few dozen times and it stopped leaking. It was not leaking prior to me inserting the straw. So do you think I permanently damaged it or got some grease temporarily too far in where the water seal is?

Also, any idea where the grease needs to go based on the attachment I posed with the arrows? And would be awesome if someone can tell me how many millimetres or centimetres I should be inserting the straw.

Thank you.

Too much grease can cause issues, I changed my clone one after a couple of years, It started to drip, then I found the shaft tube and bearing bit in the seal clogged. I reckon that it was preventing the water lube thing.

 

[colind3782]

Surprised no-one has mentioned the RMTA seal (Axial seal RMTA-RTMO type). Its basically a Volvo type seal with a nozzle for injecting grease (no need for a straw) and a vent connection (no need to burp it). I've heard rumours that they are made in the same factory as the Volvo seal.

Shanty has one of these, after I destroyed a Volvo seal by forgetting to burp it. Its done three seasons so far, and seems to be an improvement on the basic Volvo type.

A shaft misalignment wore out my Volvo seal. After sorting out the problem , I replaced with a Radice seal and it's so much better for the reasons above. Takes up a little more space but that's the only downside as far as I can see.

 

[mystery]

Alright, my learnings:
1. I was past the 500 hour mark / approaching 5 year mark, so I would've replaced them anyway
2. I am going to get one spare to carry
3. You definitely do not want to put any grease or allow any dirt beyond the first 5-10mm, definitely not in the water bearing area
4. If you are going to be doing work on your shaft, moving it in and out, you need the plastic part that protects the two lip seals. I have a feeling this played a role as my shaft had been moved in and out a few dozen times working on some stuff and the lips were getting dragged in the wrong direction. But on the other hand, I am worried that this plastic piece might push the existing grease too far back?
5. Make sure your alignment is good, I had an alignment issue that may have led to early failure, hard to say early because they were due any way, but know plenty of folks who are fine getting 10 years out of them.
6. Expensive part for what it is but thats Volvo, may look at that Eliche Radiche solution down the road
7. You can build your own coupling-shaft puller with two 5/8 x 4.5" bolts + nuts and a 15/16 socket attachment in between the shaft coupling and transmission coupling. You just put the socket attachment in between, tighten the bolts a little bit, and should separate quick. You can also try tapping it off, we found spinning the second one and tapping it simultaneously helped it pop right off.

For me, due to my anode placement, this could not have been done without hauling the boat or having a diver remove the aft anode (I have two on my shaft) as you need clearance to move the shaft back. One shaft moved easily the other required pulling it from the outside. I can see otherwise how this could be done with the boat in the water... I may have my aft shaft anode moved further forward when I re-coat the propspeed next year. Any issues in doing this? Will it throw off any balance or cause a vibration?

 

[Beneteau381]

Well no leaks over night but after touching its leaking again.

I see at: Stern glands there is mention of a video:

where someone changes it with the boat in the water. Unfortunately the video is now marked private. Anyone have it or can speak to what I might encounter if I loosen the bolts and try to clean out the grease I inserted too far, all while afloat?

Thanks!

The stern gland clogging, there was a LOT of grease in there, cumulative, do not fixate too much about this.

 

[Nina Lucia]

I knew I\'d kept this for a reason....

10 minutes in the shed....

My old volvo seal. (Sea is on the left of the photo, engine on the right).

You need to get the grease between the inner and outer seals. You also need to make sure that water can get through the bearing, as far as the inner seal.

The lips on both the inner and outer seals were noticeably longer on the new part.

Hope this helps.

Andy

Where to get a plastic stew this days?