Volvo DPH oil seal problem!

[kennyh]

Hi all

During a Sterndrive leg service for my Volvo DPH drive (circa 350hrs) we've found water contamination in the oil (a milky grey colour). My local mechanic has pressure tested it and it slowly drops over a 45mins period or so, but he can't find the leak.

Any pointers to where the issue is most likely to be? And any thoughts on where to best send the leg for the seals to be replaced, and likely cost?

I'm in Central Scotland, but fully expect that it will need to stuck on a pallet and sent south for some love and attention.

Thanks.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Seals is not an unusual failure on the DPH leg. I had mine done this year, I think it cost a couple of hours plus the parts.

 

[CharlieAlpha]

Your local engineer (who looks after green lumps) should be able to do it, we however cannot send VolvoPaul north because of Indy3

 

[Machaseo]

Nothwest Auto Marine in Largs should be able to help.

 

[CX54WEK]

If you are in the slightest bit mechanically minded do it yourself.

It only takes and hour or so to remove the shaft, remove the damaged seals, replace the seals and replace the shaft. Then flush through with clean oil. Drop this again and replace with fresh.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

If you are in the slightest bit mechanically minded do it yourself.

It only takes and hour or so to remove the shaft, remove the damaged seals, replace the seals and replace the shaft. Then flush through with clean oil. Drop this again and replace with fresh.

On a DPH drive? I understood that this wasn't possible without the correct-sized mandrel; I'd be interested to know how you've done this diy on this particular drive.

 

[spannerman]

Its dead easy, you undo the two torx screws behind the round anode then gently tap the bearing housing and rotate it so then you can ease it out of the lower casing. There are two seals in the bearing housing which you flip out then after checking there is no sea grass or fishing line behind them you fit the new ones, the inner seal has its lips inwards and the outer has them outwards, grease them so they are not dry. Now set that aside and pull the large outer shaft from the gear casing, there are two seals in this and its the same procedure, although the inner one may have a different part number if so then it has a steel edge on one side which goes innermost, then the outer seal. While its stripped down carefully clean the shafts where the seals sit as they tend to get salt deposits around them. Flush out the drive with diesel to get the contaminated oil out, then carefully slide the outer shaft over the inner which stays in the gearcasing, then I use a polythene bag over the puter shaft to cover the serrations where the prop nut screws on to protect the seal lips as you slide the bearing box back after replacing the 2 big O rings and making sure any plastic or steel shims are in place between it and the main housing. Tighten the torx screws to 45 nm and replace the drain screw washer and screw and refill with 5.4 ltr of gear oil. If you are not sure of anything just pm me.

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

Its dead easy, you undo the two torx screws behind the round anode then gently tap the bearing housing and rotate it so then you can ease it out of the lower casing. There are two seals in the bearing housing which you flip out then after checking there is no sea grass or fishing line behind them you fit the new ones, the inner seal has its lips inwards and the outer has them outwards, grease them so they are not dry. Now set that aside and pull the large outer shaft from the gear casing, there are two seals in this and its the same procedure, although the inner one may have a different part number if so then it has a steel edge on one side which goes innermost, then the outer seal. While its stripped down carefully clean the shafts where the seals sit as they tend to get salt deposits around them. Flush out the drive with diesel to get the contaminated oil out, then carefully slide the outer shaft over the inner which stays in the gearcasing, then I use a polythene bag over the puter shaft to cover the serrations where the prop nut screws on to protect the seal lips as you slide the bearing box back after replacing the 2 big O rings and making sure any plastic or steel shims are in place between it and the main housing. Tighten the torx screws to 45 nm and replace the drain screw washer and screw and refill with 5.4 ltr of gear oil. If you are not sure of anything just pm me.

What round anode? I hesitate to disagree with you, but I didn't think there was a round anode on the dph?

 

[volvopaul]

What round anode? I hesitate to disagree with you, but I didn't think there was a round anode on the dph?

I was thinking just the same Jimmy no anode behind prop on a dph

 

[kennyh]

Hi Volvopaul

Any advice on no. of hours / ballpark costs to get seal replaced on DPH?

 

[spannerman]

Sorry I've just been overhauling a 290 drive and that does have a round anode, I meant the round plastic fairing, I got my drives mixed up as the internals are similar.