Volvo DP prop removal question

[Mr Googler]

I downloaded the manual from a previous post.

I have got the front prop of but the ally ring that holds the rear prop on is a bit stuck.

The manual describes it as a nut but its on a spline.

Do I turn it (i.e. a nut) or pull it off.

Never seen a spline with a thread on it so I'm very confused!! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[[2068]]

You turn it anticlockwise to undo - the spline has a thread cut into it. It's much easier if you have the special tool to do it. There is a nylon bush that stops it falling off, which means you have to use a bit of welly to remove it even once it starts moving.

Put the drive in forward gear to lock.

dv.

 

[Mr Googler]

Thanks muchly for that.

Glad I asked rather than taking a hammer to it /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[KevB]

Do you intend taking the leg off?

 

[Mr Googler]

Not planning to. Replacing the seals on the prop shaft and spraying up the props.

I dare say though my DIY approach in an effort to save money may end up costing me more but hopefully with the help of the wonderful people on this forum I wont go too far wrong!!

 

[Questor]

I think the ally ring that you refer to, which looks like a spacer is a "line cutter". Hard to believe it actually cuts stuff as it's not sharp, but that's what the Volvo peeps tell me it is. I have found manked up fishing line in mine before. They ring often sticks to the prop when you remove it. But in your case it sounds as if it hasn't. Just pull it free - it just sits there, and that will reveal the nut on the spline which holds the rear prop in place. As said this has a nylock washer and is hard to undo, but is much easier with the Volvo special tool, which is pretty easily acquirable.

There is another ring behind the rear prop.

 

[Col]

Not wishing to be rude, but if you're struggling to get the props off, should you really be attempting to pull the shafts out?

 

[Questor]

[ QUOTE ]
Do you intend taking the leg off?

[/ QUOTE ]

How did it go at the weekend? Many bolts left over? All set to do mine in June /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Mr Googler]

Props are now off. no problem once I knew to turn rather than pull. Always best to ask those in the know.

Thanks for the concern COL. I have been getting lots of advice especially S28 and Kwacker. I have been reliably informed that seals are a case of dig out and replace but have PM spanneman for any top tips. Anyone else care to give tips?

Im pretty good on engine bits but the legs are something else!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[[2068]]

Errm, yes. I'd get a mechanic to change the seals!

 

[Mr Googler]

How so. Spoke to a few today who said pretty straight forward just keep area super clean.

 

[KevB]

Hi Richard,

Legs came off easily thanks to instructions posted here by Pendana.

First one took a couple of hours but much much quicker for the second having discovered what to do. I did it single handed which wasn't a problem (no ba$tard turned up to help) although baleout was a phone call away if help was required. He did lend me his hammer...

Very few tools required and nothing your average diy kit wouldn't already contain, and not a mass of nuts and bolts to take off either

The majority of the time was spent cleaning the worm calluses from inside the transom shield and the normally hidden parts of the legs.

I decided to take the legs home and paint them in the comfort of my garage instead of the shingle in the boat yard. So weather permitting will put them back on this weekend.

I did take pictures of most stages of the dismantle which I could post here if anyone wants, along with the instructions from Pendana.

Kevin.

 

[Mr Googler]

That would be great. Please post of PM themThanks in advance

 

[Questor]

Glad it went well, and yes, it would be good to see some photos plus instructions.

I suppose after the work in the garage, next stop is the airing cupboard to dry???

Probably will be around this weekend, so will try and pop over.

 

[mont]

fwiw on the subject, as discussed before and after the costly experience of mine and others ....
Do perhaps replace the £4 prop cone locking bolt and then tighten to the correct torque setting.
If it sheers off after years of repeated overtightening, which it probably will do eventually, then the first you'll know is when you lose a prop off. Then its only a new prop & cone, oh and probably a lift out to extract the sheared bit of stud left stuck in the shaft - about say £500 ish should cover it nicely.

 

[Col]

There are 2 seal per shaft. You cant just "dig them out". They have to be driven out from behind and replaced using a mandrel to keep seals square ( A socket would do)
In order to do that you have to remove both inner and outer shafts.

What you propose would in all probability make them leak even more,

*Edit* If you score the shafts while you are digging out seals, that will cost you a lot more than getting a pro to change the seals for you. Shafts are quite often "grooved" due to wear from the seals. This would also need rectifying. The shafts have to be out to see this.( You should also change the O rings around the bearing carrier while disassembled