Volvo D6 Engine Temp Sensor, and possible overheat..

[Sdpaddler50]

Long story short, my temperature gauge will periodically jump from the normal 185 to 196F while running on plane. The alarm and I believe guardian mode occurs at 205, but I have not reached that point.

In researching this on some boards here in the US, I have found out that Volvo in their infinite wisdom do not Display temperature between 185 and 195. They apparently don't want people freaking out, when the temp is greater than 185, so you don't find out until it hits 196.

I need to know if the situation is getting worse, and the intermediate temperatures I may be hitting between 185 and 195.

I recently shot the engine with an IR gun and and the results were inconclusive.

Raw water strainers, drive intakes, and coolant fine. Impeller changed 6 months ago. Could be a sensor, or thermostat, but I don't think so based in discussions with others.

I know there are a lot of Volvos in the UK so I was wondering what people's thoughts were on this, and did you install an aftermarket temperature sensor independent of the Volvo EVc display? That is the direction I am going in now.

If anyone did install a standalone temperature sensor, any information on Sensor you used, the display and how it was wired together would be appreciated.

 

[Bandit]

D6 engines suffer with calcifying up of the seawater seawater cooling system . I assume warm water is worse than temperate?

You can clear this in situ by flushing through the engine with Rydlyme to dissolve it. 12v pump flush through from a large bin to after the seawater strainer, through the seawater cooling system and the hose to the seawater injection bend being diverted and returning the Rydlyme to the bin . Recycle for say 30 to 40 minutes till spent and refresh with a new solution of Rydlyme and do again.

foam returning to bin froths up a large amount at start up so you need a large bin say 2 to three times more than volume of Rydlyme solution. With a D6 probably do annually.

 

[kennyh]

As Bandit says, it appears to be a common problem.

My temp gauge did exactly the same thing at full throttle.

I recently did the Rydlyme treatment in my D4 and it resolved the problem.

Have a look at this previous thread which discussed the issue I had and what I did to resolve it.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?459700-Rydlyme-application-to-a-Volvo-D4-How

Now of course, you may have a different issue, but a clean out with Rydlyme first may resolve your problem before having to resort to stripping out coolers etc to clean a blockage in flow.

 

[Sdpaddler50]

Interesting, thanks for the link.

I did hear from someone on the east coast of the US that this is done. I don't know of anyone doing it here on the west coast, but I would like to give it a try. My engines are still under warranty, so I need to run everything by the local service dealer.

I read the attached link, but need to go through again in detail. I have DPH drives. It appears this In dock flush can be done with stern drives as well?

 

[volvopaul]

Interesting, thanks for the link.

I did hear from someone on the east coast of the US that this is done. I don't know of anyone doing it here on the west coast, but I would like to give it a try. My engines are still under warranty, so I need to run everything by the local service dealer.

I read the attached link, but need to go through again in detail. I have DPH drives. It appears this In dock flush can be done with stern drives as well?

Yes it can be done out the water if yard allows engines to be run up with the boat on stands .

Google flush sock , it a device designed here that does the job , however a suitable size container does the job too, just remove the props and place under drive with mix of rydelime and water , run engine to get desired results , D 4 heat exchanger end plate at front is easy to remove to inspect after .

 

[Sdpaddler50]

I was hoping to be able to flush the drives, while its at the dock, in the water. CA has very strict environmental controls, and the yards are picky about any type of fluids in general, so I don't think I can do this at the yard. To confirm, no way to flush the drives in the water (at the dock) as noted in the attached link?

Yes it can be done out the water if yard allows engines to be run up with the boat on stands .

Google flush sock , it a device designed here that does the job , however a suitable size container does the job too, just remove the props and place under drive with mix of rydelime and water , run engine to get desired results , D 4 heat exchanger end plate at front is easy to remove to inspect after .

 

[Bandit]

Rydlyme solution is a weak acid solution, I have sensitive skin and i put my hands it without gloves.

If you water it down on disposal with a hose it becomes a very very weak solution.

Rydlyme is manufactured in USA see http://www.rydlymemarine.com/ ask them I assume they sell it in California?

 

[Sdpaddler50]

We have redlime here in the US and Volvo uses it to de-scale but in the shop. My question is in regards to running it through the Volvo DPH drives in the water at the dock. It's a different animal than a shaft driven boat as far as getting the water through the system, because the raw water intake is through the drive located in the water.

Rydlyme solution is a weak acid solution, I have sensitive skin and i put my hands it without gloves.

If you water it down on disposal with a hose it becomes a very very weak solution.

Rydlyme is manufactured in USA see http://www.rydlymemarine.com/ ask them I assume they sell it in California?

 

[GrahamHR]

I fitted a reinforced plastic T-piece plus an inlet valve on in the inlet hose of my D4 so I could flush it with freshwater after every outing. Very cheap, very effective. Hopefully the heat exchanger won't scale up. If it does, I'll fit a 316L valve on the inlet and allow the pump to suck in Rydlyme etc through the flush inlet. Should have been standard, considering how much these engines cost.

 

[kennyh]

I would suspect that any potential blockage is not in the outdrive.

When I did my clean, I bypassed the leg intake. You feed the Rydlyme into the block and coolers after the seawater strainer and capture it again after it exits from the final cooler/block thus you get to keep it again for reuse.

Rydlyme is fully biodegradable/non-toxic - check out their website. But anyway, after you've cleaned the system and then gathered the Rydlyme back into the main container in the flushing system, then only a tiny residual volume would be flushed out once you put the cooling system back together and flush by normal use of the engine.

So in summary - it does not go through the legs (unless you get the whole rig out of the water and flush using a method like Volvopaul covered).

 

[GrahamHR]

Isn't my methology better, prevention rather than cure ?

 

[Sdpaddler50]

Can you tell me specifically where you are connecting to, after the sea water strainer? And where you are capturing it exactly? I can follow the flow logic, just trying to figure out exactly where to connect the hose on the engine, and specific fittings I will need to make. Thanks.

I would suspect that any potential blockage is not in the outdrive.

When I did my clean, I bypassed the leg intake. You feed the Rydlyme into the block and coolers after the seawater strainer and capture it again after it exits from the final cooler/block thus you get to keep it again for reuse.

Rydlyme is fully biodegradable/non-toxic - check out their website. But anyway, after you've cleaned the system and then gathered the Rydlyme back into the main container in the flushing system, then only a tiny residual volume would be flushed out once you put the cooling system back together and flush by normal use of the engine.

So in summary - it does not go through the legs (unless you get the whole rig out of the water and flush using a method like Volvopaul covered).

 

[Bandit]

D6 engines suffer with calcifying up of the seawater seawater cooling system . I assume warm water is worse than temperate?

You can clear this in situ by flushing through the engine with Rydlyme to dissolve it. 12v pump flush through from a large bin to after the seawater strainer, through the seawater cooling system and the hose to the seawater injection bend being diverted and returning the Rydlyme to the bin . Recycle for say 30 to 40 minutes till spent and refresh with a new solution of Rydlyme and do again.

foam returning to bin froths up a large amount at start up so you need a large bin say 2 to three times more than volume of Rydlyme solution. With a D6 probably do annually.

Remove the hose after the seastrainer and remove the impeller for the flushing (replace impeller after) The hose to the injection bend is the one that cools the exhaust after the turbo.

I dont think the problem is in the outdrive leg but in the intercoolers for engine freshwater coolant and oil.

Replace zincs in the engine after flushing.

I was told in UK you flush it down the drain.