Volvo D-20 peripheral wiring

fastjedi

fastjedi

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After a couple of weekends of light domestic use on our 'new to us' boat, one of the batteries became discharged! Having recharged the battery, I set about isolating the cause. It appears that the fuel gauge and fuel valve solenoid operate as soon as the 12v is switched on ..... collectively drawing about 0.7A

This problem most probably originates from a Volvo D1-20 install 18 months ago. They have a EVC electronic control panel so there is no mechanical ignition key to wire engine peripherals to!

So ...what to do?

1. I could create a switched circuit for the solenoid / tank gauge .. but that would be trouble waiting to happen .... just a matter of time before I forget to switch it on and run out of fuel 100m from my mooring!

2. Surely, there is an auxilary feed in the loom for peripherals? .... but without a manual / wiring diagram I am unlikely to find it!

3. Ideally, I would like to install an ignition switch to improve security and address the issues above, but again, difficult to do without a wiring diagram!

B.T.W ... What does the 'stop' button do to stop the engine on a D1-20?
 
Wow ... was that a really boring question or is the forum stumpted :-)

I now know there is a cable and a relay to run auxilary devices an an eye watering price!

I need a plan B .... either I remove the fuel solenoid (this would have the benefit of removing a potential failure) ... or I place a master switch / key in the 12v feed to the engine. This would have the benefit of improving security.
 
Hi fastjedi

don't know your engine or its wiring but I have a suggestion that may be cost effective.
assuming your starter is on a push button, I would install a 4 way (8pole) on/off toggle/rotary switch.

way#1 - +12V to the fuel solenoid.
way#2 - +12v to fuel guage.
Way#3 - route the starter pushbutton thru here, so you can't start the engine without the fuel being on.
way#4 - +12V & small lamp/LED&resistor - to remind me to knock the switch off when engine is stopped.

if you can't get hold of a 4way, you could use a 1 way toggle to switch a 4 way normally open relay. double check all currents and cable size before rating the switch/relay.
(if you want to include security, you could use a key switch for above).
hope this is of some help.
rgds
cimo
 
D1 20

Fastjedi
I have a D1 30 so same electrics, I would love it if one of the experts on here would get round to answering your question. The marvellously useful VP 'Operators Manual' has an electrical section with comprehensive instructions on topping up your battery.
No offence Cimo, your suggestions are welcome, but these engines come with a VP panel which is where the mystery lies.
 
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Quandary said:
Fastjedi
I have a D1 30 so same electrics, I would love it if one of the experts on here would get round to answering your question. The marvellously useful VP 'Operators Manual' has an electrical section with comprehensive instructions on topping up your battery.
No offence Cimo, your suggestions are welcome, but these engines come with a VP panel which is where the mystery lies.
Click to expand...

none taken. whats a VP panel?
 
I don't know the wiring on your boat. But I'll have a go anyway. On most boats the battery switch when on allows the power to flow to the electrical panel and the engine panel, of whatever type, so without the switch on no power to any accessory except probably the bilge pump which should always be powered. When the ignition key is turned to the "on" position the accessories for the engine are then powered - fuel pump if electric, fuel solenoid (although these are rare in my experience) and the actual gauges on the panel. When the switch is turned to "start" the starter solenoid is activated and the engine turns over and starts. When the key springs back to the "on" position the engine is running and all engine related accessories are powered. What I would do is isolate this power feed and run it through a single switch which you can label "engine". This switch really should control the power to the starter as well, a large cable that carries the power to turn the starter itself. The switch should handle starting loads but be a simple on/off switch. I've included an example below from Blue Seas. There are others similar. Alternatively you can leave the heavy positive wire to the starter alone and just worry about the engine panel and accessories relating to the engine. The heavy wire to the starter in that case would be still controlled by your main battery switch which it is now. I hope this helps. If you're still confused say so and I will try to help.
 
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hello mitiempo, I'm afraid to back you up until we know more about the mysteries of the VP panel! But I agree in principle!

from what I understand, fastjedi has no keyswitch.
When his batteries are on, the fuel guage & fuel solenoid are drawing current. Isolating the power to the EVC panel via a manual switich makes sense to me (but only if the fuel guage & fuel solenoid are indeed powered thru the EVC panel). If not, the problem still persists.

I'm wondering now if the EVC control panel isn't some new fancy electronic control system. I'm seeing printed circuit board mounted pushbuttons, LCD displays and ribbon cables? Regardless, there are no man made mysteries, I say.

hello again fastjedi - to address your last question "B.T.W ... What does the 'stop' button do to stop the engine on a D1-20?"

Bearing in mind that I'm a strong advocate of simplicity, diesel engines that I've been close to are typically stopped by cutting off the fuel supply. This is normally achieved by de-energising the fuel solenoid (more than likely the same soleniod that is currently drainging your battery).

come back if we're way of course on this?
thanks & rgds
cimo
 
cimo & fastjedi
The diesel engines I have had and currently own are simply shut off by reducing the throttle - couldn't be simpler. But regardless, I would isolate all power heading to either the panel, the solenoid, or the engine itself and route it through the switch. Whatever type of EVC panel exists this can be done.
 
Bilgediver is right. With an electric fuel pump a key switch makes sense. I once had a boat with a mechanical puel pump and had a simple key on/off below and a waterproof start button outside but true ignition key switch on the panel is best in this case. I'd still make sure the engine circuits were able to be turned off with a master switch below.
 
stop solenoid?

fastjedi said:
B.T.W ... What does the 'stop' button do to stop the engine on a D1-20?
Click to expand...

Don't know anything about your engine but on my Beta the stop button operates a solenoid which cuts off the fuel. Its pretty obvious (its right on top of the engine) and the same colour wire connects it with the stop button on the control panel.
 
Yes ... I have found a diagram that suggests the D1-20 works in the same way (a fuel solenoid by the injectors to stop the engine).

I guess another 'fix' for my issue could be to run a relay off the cable to the engine fuel solenoid, and then to to drive the fuel line solenoid from the relay contacts. I don't think Mr Volvo would like that though :-)

The consencus appears to be 'fit a red key master switch in the 12v feed to the engine' at the moment.
 
Volvo D1-20

Fastjedi

I have a copy of the workshop manual with circuit diagrams in it if of any use to you. It clearly shows an isolating switch in the main line from Battery to starter which is where the instrument panel takes it's feed from. I guess that a simple relay of the right size controlled by an 'ignition switch' would be as effective as a simple battery isolator. PM me if you want the manual in PDF format.

Yoda
 
hello yoda - wouldn't mind a look myself out of curosity.
PM'd you my email address.
thanks in advance.
rgds
cimo
 
The D1-20 (at least most recent ones) use Volvo's Electronic Vessel Control (EVC) system, which means you need to do some things differently than you would with basic engine.

The EVC system is typically controlled by a set of buttons or a special key switch at the main helm station. There are usually four buttons: On/Off, Start, Stop and Alarm Acknowledge. These same functions are represented by different positions on the Volvo-provoded keyswitch (if you have a key switch panel).


In a normal installation, there is a battery cut-off switch upstream of the engine which disconnects all the power (starter and EVC) from the engine. When the main power is turned on, the EVC should only power up in what is more or less a sleep state. The tach, gauges, fuel solenoid, etc. should all be powered down.

When you push the On/Off button, the EVC powers up the engine systems. This can be seen in that the tach lights up. If you use the special aux relay cable, this is when the aux relay powers up (it's switched by the data bus power that goes to the gauges). It's not easy to hack in your own relay in place of theirs, since too large a draw from the relay causes the whole EVC to shut down in a fault condition.

From there, the start button starts the engine (including running the glow plugs if necessary), and the Stop button activates the stop solenoid (I'm not sure if this is normally powered, or normally unpowered).

Stopping the engine doesn't power down everything until you push the On/Off button again (at which point you'll see the tach turn off).

The issue with the fuel gauge depends on whether you have the EVC gauge hooked up, or if you are using a separate gauge. The EVC gauge has the sender connect to the EVC box on the engine, so the control system can control the power. If you have a separate gauge, you need to figure out how your electrician wired the power to the gauge/sender.

Cheers,
Tim
 
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