Volvo cold start question

Anthonyexmouth

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When I bought my boat I was told the cold start button on the MD17D had broken off so was a little hard to start. I've looked at the drawing in the manual but it's not that clear how it works.
I'm also wondering if it might be stuck on as I seem to burn a lot of fuel, although not measured consumption yet it seems to burn more than my Ford D does.
Here's a pic, can anyone here with a functioning cold start post a pic of it so I can compare.

Thanks.
MD17D Rear.jpg
 
Would the cold start stuck on not make it easier to start?

Yes if it operates like the early MD range by removing the limitation on rack movement however you would know it was stuck at as the engine would rev up more quickly than usual and also emit more smoke when speeding up.
 
This looks like both a stuck cold start and something else. The stuck cold start would be responsible for smoke at start up and smoke when the engine is speeded up however the engine should stop smoking at steady speed unless overloaded.
The main problem could either be a stuck button or someone has deliberately over adjusted the screw which adjusts the amount of excess fuel delivered for cold start and acceleration. On older engines this screw had a locking wire and lead seal and is more or less in the position where that dome is next to the cold start. You may have to remove that odd shape plate on the back of the engine. Screwing in reduces and screwing out increases excess fueling and when correctly set there should be little smoke and acceptable acceleration.
Is it possible some of the smoke you are seeing at steady running is steam/condensation as that would be apparent in current weather conditions.

This adjustment should only be carried out if the cold start is working. You can check this when the plate on the rear is removed as it is visible.
When activated and it resets as soon as the governor takes over on speed up.
 
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This looks like both a stuck cold start and something else. The stuck cold start would be responsible for smoke at start up and smoke when the engine is speeded up however the engine should stop smoking at steady speed unless overloaded.
The main problem could either be a stuck button or someone has deliberately over adjusted the screw which adjusts the amount of excess fuel delivered for cold start and acceleration. On older engines this screw had a locking wire and lead seal and is more or less in the position where that dome is next to the cold start. You may have to remove that odd shape plate on the back of the engine. Screwing in reduces and screwing out increases excess fueling and when correctly set there should be little smoke and acceptable acceleration.
Is it possible some of the smoke you are seeing at steady running is steam/condensation as that would be apparent in current weather conditions.

This adjustment should only be carried out if the cold start is working. You can check this when the plate on the rear is removed as it is visible.
When activated and it resets as soon as the governor takes over on speed up.
I'll pop that cover off and take a look.
 
Good afternoon. This is my first post on the forum. Hope it will help. Find attached some info I got from Volvo manuals. MD11 & MD17 have a coldstart system as you say. Apparently the MD17 has a built-in automatic cold-start device. Not on previous MD11 where you needed to pull the control to regulate on the fuel delivery. But you will find something interesting on the second picture is shown. Maybe someone disengaged the cold starting device once when checking the control rod travel with the intention of performing a better control of fuel injection...
cold-md17 coldstart.jpg
 
The second picture is showing you how to correctly set this cold start system using the Special Tool. The text describes the process. This should only be done by someone who understands the process. The system automatically reengages correctly when the throttle is returned to tick over.
 
The second picture is showing you how to correctly set this cold start system using the Special Tool. The text describes the process. This should only be done by someone who understands the process. The system automatically reengages correctly when the throttle is returned to tick over.
Same recommendation. To be checked correctly to confirm the system hasn't been manipulated
 
Does anyone know what's special about that tool? is it just a bent pick?


The end section of the tool is a specific size and used as a feeler gauge between the fuel pump rack and the adjusting screw. This adjustment must be done with the cold start in running position and not engaged.
 
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