Volvo 63p EGT normal & Max temp?

KajLehtinen

KajLehtinen

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www.sealine.nu
Hi!

Anyone know what the normal Exchaust Gas Temperature on a Volvo Penta 63p should be and what is the max value before were talking major repairs?

I'm installing a Maretron network in a F43, putting in a TMP100 with EGT sensors and need to configure the max values.

/Kaj
 
KajLehtinen said:
Hi!

Anyone know what the normal Exchaust Gas Temperature on a Volvo Penta 63p should be and what is the max value before were talking major repairs?

I'm installing a Maretron network in a F43, putting in a TMP100 with EGT sensors and need to configure the max values.

/Kaj
Click to expand...

Kaj,

I am not a Volvo person, however from a purely generic diesel engineering standpoint I would start to be a little concerned at anything much above 450C @ WOT and would treat anything over 500C as the danger zone, not a healthy operating envioment for exhaust valves.

EGT will not normally register below engine peak torque and then rise steadily after torque peak, 250/350 C in normal engine operating band.
 
The 63p was volvos first 5.5 litre engine to be fitted with a wastgated turbo, and over the years it has suffered may failures.

Anything metal that sits near an elbow with salt water deposits near it is going to fail eventually.

What hapens is that as a marine engine sits most of its time idle, the actuator seizes up, the valve corrodes shut, hence you get overboost and premature piston failure due to high inlet air temp this in turn creates a higher exhaust temp.

Thats about all I can add about the 63p problems, other than that its a great engine.
 
A bit late!

I se the newer D6 370hp have a temperature after turbocharger 370deg C at WOT 3500rpm But the more powerful 430hp version have 390 deg.

The newer engine D6 430hp have a maximum boost of 2.05bar. The 63P have 2.25bar so I guess the temperature drop over turbine is larger on the 63P. If I know the turbine and compressor efficiency you can calculate back to the turbine inlet temperature wich is the important one.

I have measured before and after on my engine and difference only 50-100deg. 1bar boost.

I guess 130-150deg temperature drop over turbine on this engine. Then 450deg after turbo means 600inlet temperature. This should be within normal limits for turbo and valves

Best thing you can do is to fit the sensor, run the engine up to 2800rpm check the boost pressure and take readings on exhaust temperature. As volvopaul says: on this engine there is a waste gate. If this is not working you can have to high or to low boost. To high gives to much cylinder pressure and to low gives to high exhaust temperatures. Both will kill your engine.If it is blocked closed your temperature indicates to low.

Remember the 63P is an extreme engine. The BMEP is 21.3bar at full power and 27bar at maximum torque. The newer D6 430hp engine has 20bar at full power and 24bar bmep at maximum but the piston speed is higher 12.8m/s against 11.3m/s on 63P
That’s why 63P needs a waste gate. It’s hard to get a turbo that is optimum at propeller speed and full speed. D6 uses a compressor to achieve air at part load
 
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I cannot help thinking that this is getting real complex for no good reason.

Exhaust gas temperature (turbine out) HAS to be on a Volvo technical data sheet somewhere.

I would not consider doing an engine survey without recording EGT's, both CAT and Cummins have the information on their data sheets and factory risers have 1/8 NPT plug in the short dry section before the spray head and custom spray heads should ALWAYS incorporate a test point, without it how on earth can you measure EGT and back pressure when signing off an engine installation???

Kind of begs the question how do builders install a Volvo engine correctly without the installation having correct test points and the data, another bunch of one legged men at an ass kicking party!

Looked at a Nelson re-powered with CAT 3126's a while back, which had dropped a valve at low hours. Owner wanted to go after CAT. However when we trialled with rebuilt motor EGT's were close to 600C and back pressure was 4 inches of Hg............ CAT had signed off 'clean' installation, owners pet numpty engine tec had encouraged a bit more graunch on the prop pitch and fitted Vetus water lift mufflers (pet hate) AFTER engines had been signed off.

Owner expected a report to beat CAT with; instead it turned out to be a self inflicted injury. Know nothing numpties always seem to get paid; telling owner indigestible truth results in waiting three months and rude letters to obtain payment.

Rant over and back on course, without the data and test points how you can be sure engine installation is fit for purpose.

No rant not over, brainless builders and installers are never off my radar, another thread running out there over engine access. Do not go to shows anymore as they are bad for my health. Last time I was shown engine installation in a new vessel by the salesman in front of a potential customer commented that the front of the motor was so close to the bulkhead it would be impossible to remove the fuel pump to service it without ripping the engine out or chopping a big hole in the bulkhead, and that was before I pointed out that the exhaust had certain gravity defying design aspects.

Modern engines are great, until some clown installs one.

Installation of EGT gauges is common in the US and ISSPRO make a real neat little unit, remember there must be a short dry section after the turbine housing for a suitable test point.
 
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Latestarter1 said:
factory risers have 1/8 NPT plug in the short dry section before the spray head and custom spray heads should ALWAYS incorporate a test point,
Click to expand...

Just to clarify, you are saying that the EGT sensor, to be useful at all, should go into the dry section of the elbow (presumably as close to the engine as possible) and not in the aft (flowwise) section of the elbow because there its mixed with water?

Unfortunatly I didnt take a picture when I was down in the boat yesterday, if the above is true the VP dealer might have installed it wrong :-(
 
KajLehtinen said:
Just to clarify, you are saying that the EGT sensor, to be useful at all, should go into the dry section of the elbow (presumably as close to the engine as possible) and not in the aft (flowwise) section of the elbow because there its mixed with water?

Unfortunatly I didnt take a picture when I was down in the boat yesterday, if the above is true the VP dealer might have installed it wrong :-(
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Kaj,

If dealer has installed pyro probe in the 'wet' section they most certainly have got it completely wrong.........see what I mean about numpties!

Take a look at the attached picture showing pyro location before fitting the heat blanket, we needed a custom riser to replace the Yanmar stock item in order to get some gravity on our side in a tight installation.
 
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volvopaul said:
The 63p was volvos first 5.5 litre engine to be fitted with a wastgated turbo, and over the years it has suffered may failures.

What hapens is that as a marine engine sits most of its time idle, the actuator seizes up, the valve corrodes shut, hence you get overboost and premature piston failure due to high inlet air temp this in turn creates a higher exhaust temp.
Click to expand...

Wow Volvopaul. You've got me concerned as I know you know what you are talking about!

I have 2 x 63P on my boat. When i got the boat, the engine report said that the wastegate valve was sticky causing the engine not to be able to rev correctly at WOT.

Anyway the Volvo guy removed it and took it to the workshop, cleaned it and all has been well since, although WOT is not a place I have been - ever. The boat has been used virtually every weekend this year without any engine problems. Slow speeds and then a "blast" to 20 knots every so often to give the engines some work to do, is our cruising profile.

The upshot is that do you have any advice on preventing this problem this problem, or even to spot it happening?

Your advice is very much appreciated.
 
Well I got the numbers.

Measure the boost accurate is also a cheap easy way to se that the valve is working. Its possible to pressurise the valve by taking the hose from air inlet manifold.
 
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asteven221 said:
Wow Volvopaul. You've got me concerned as I know you know what you are talking about!

I have 2 x 63P on my boat. When i got the boat, the engine report said that the wastegate valve was sticky causing the engine not to be able to rev correctly at WOT.

Anyway the Volvo guy removed it and took it to the workshop, cleaned it and all has been well since, although WOT is not a place I have been - ever. The boat has been used virtually every weekend this year without any engine problems. Slow speeds and then a "blast" to 20 knots every so often to give the engines some work to do, is our cruising profile.

The upshot is that do you have any advice on preventing this problem this problem, or even to spot it happening?

Your advice is very much appreciated.
Click to expand...

The seal fails in the actuator, all that happens then is the boost air just goes to atmosphere, causing the valve to stay shut, you can get excess smoke when the turbo is failing, the housing is laso prone to cracking too, you start to loose coolant when this happens.
 
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