Volvo 2030 Starting

[AlunS]

We have a 4 year old Volvo 2030 engine in our 1986 Seahawk. It usually starts with no problems. However, occasionally, after switching on the power on the instrument panel, when the starter button is pressed (or sometimes when the glowplug is switched on) the warning lights go out and the panel remains dead for a few minutes before lighting up again. It will sometimes then start, or the lights go out again as before. It has always started again eventually, but it is a bit worrying!
I replaced the on/off switch on the panel at the beginning of the season and all was well for 3 months or so until the problem started recurring a month ago. It seems more likely to occur when the engine is warm (but the first time it happened was when starting up after the winter lay up)
We have only had the boat 18 months so I dont know if it is a recent problem or not). The battery was replaced last April.
Any suggestions would be most welcome.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[silverseal]

Sounds to me "Ford Cortina symdrome", which used to do the same thing. Caused by bad contact between the starter battery and the starter motor, and was usually rectifed by cleaning the posts on the battery with a file and then applying copies amounts of vaseline to prevent corrosion. Might also be worth checking the connections to the starter motor and the relay, not forgetting the earth straps to the engine from the battery -ve

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[jerryat]

Hi AlunS!

Sounds to me as if you have a bad connection somewhere, probably involving the engine switch panel. When the panel lights went out, were you trying to start the engine, was the starter motor turning were the batteries fully charged?

Is this one of those Volvos that has a fuse panel actually fixed to the engine block? A friend of mine had this problem with his Volvo 36 and we eventually found the problem was a bad (intermittent) connection on the fuse holder. A real b****rd to find as it was so inconsistent!

Cheers

Jerry


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[beneteau_305_553]

I also had a poor connection on the connector of the multicore control panel cable at the engine end.

I sprayed it with WD40 and pushed it together several times and it hasn't been a problem since.

<hr width=100% size=1>Richard

 

[William_H]

It certainly sounds like a rotten connection. The replacement of the switch that fixed the problem means either the switch contacts were bad or you disturbed and therefor improved some wire connections in replacing the switch. Wiggle everything add lots of WD 40 or like and try to spray some into0 the switch.. Good luck will

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[brianhumber]

You are losing volts due a high resistive connection connection somewhere in your circuit. As others have said this could be just due to poor wire connection, or burnt switch contacts, or the earthing arrangement tween starter motor and engine or engine and battery cable.

You are only 4 years old so it should not be oxidised and high resistances in the wires themselves. Trouble is these days suppliers are using the minimuim core size possible, everything starts to degrade which when extra resisitances in switch, cables, connections is added up means you get the symptoms you describe.
Had it on Ronhilda and solved by renewing starter switch and cables but she was 12 years old at the time.
Try and check the easy bits first, i.e., clean connections, then renew them with the wire taken back to clean copper then renew switch etc. If you find blackened copper strands you are getting degrading of your wiring looms.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[tome]

WD40 is an insulator so shouldn't be used on switches or other contacts.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Grandad]

With regard to <WD40 is an insulator so shouldn't be used on switches or other contacts> So is Vaseline/petolium jelly an insulator, but its great for batery terminals.
From practical experience, whilst WD40 has no comarison to Switch cleaner, its volatile solvents can be usefull in cleaning connector pins/sockets, spray lightly, then make break conection several times. BUT NOT when LIVE as the solvent is highly inflamable/explosive. Its the residue that can cause probles later unles the contacks are subjected to a relativley high contact/wiping force therefor I would agree it is not realy suitable for light duty or enclosed switches.
Bob.


<hr width=100% size=1>Good judgement comes from experience. Most experience comes from bad judgement.