Volvo 2003 Question

[Jcorstorphine]

I have a number of questions relating to the Volvo 2003.

When the 2003 was replaced by the 2030.

The 2030 is based on a Perkins unit but what was the 2003 based on.

Other than the “Spline” problem, are there any other concerns over the 2003.

Regards

John

 

[Bilgediver]

I have a number of questions relating to the Volvo 2003.

When the 2003 was replaced by the 2030.

The 2030 is based on a Perkins unit but what was the 2003 based on.

Other than the “Spline” problem, are there any other concerns over the 2003.

Regards

John

The 2003 is a Volvo design and not based on someone else's engine.
Apart from the mods to he drive to absorb engine torsionals and prevent them wrecking the spline drive they also fitted a modified starter at some point to improve starting.

The main reason for many people having problems starting is that they do not carry out the correct cold start procedure which for some obscure reason is not covered in some manuals especially those for engines sold in the USA.

The 2003T engine is often fitted in boats where its full power can not be utilized so it can tend to clog up th exhaust system and foul the exhaust end of the turbo.

 

[wotayottie]

Some weakness round where the exhaust manifold bolts to the head - thin castings that do sometimes corrode through - and an odd arrangement for fixing the injectors into the head which can mean removing the head to remove / replace an injector.

Vibey. Went through a range of mounts and even now when you ask Volvo you will get different answers as to which are the latest mounts.

 

[cpedw]

They are also prone to overheating. In my experience this can be caused by scaling up of the cooling water channels in the exhaust elbow. These channels are very tortuous and difficult to clean effectively without damaging the elbow. The long-term answer is a new elbow, about £190.
Derek

 

[MoodySabre]

Apart from the splines issue, which is relatively easy to fix, the main complaint against the 2003 is the lack of pre-heaters. This can make cold-starting in the winter a bit difficult unless your batteries are very good.

Last year I had the head off and a top end overhaul and a new lift pump. Last week we motored for 20 hours back from Holland - ran beautifully. I'm hoping it has another 20 years in it.

There are lots of alternative filters available to avoid Volvo prices.

 

[Elemental]

The main reason for many people having problems starting is that they do not carry out the correct cold start procedure which for some obscure reason is not covered in some manuals especially those for engines sold in the USA.

I'd agree with this. My 2003 was always hard to start (well, usually needed cranking a while for the first start of the day), and the manual made no mention of a cold start mechanism. Someone on this forum described the process and since then my engine is a dream, firing first time even after its annual service.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Many thanks

Thanks for all the advice and information. The reason for my question is that I am looking at a Centaur which has a 2003 engine fitted. I am a bit wary of Volvo engines as had a very bad experience with a Volvo MD2B which cost me a fortune and still had a clunker at the end of all the hard work. I was hoping that the engine would be a Perkins based unit so at least the main engine spares would not be a kings ransom.

John

 

[Tranona]

In reality, the spares price bit is overhyped. If an engine needs serious spares there is little to choose between the brands. Volvo 2003 type spares will inevitably get expensive as the engine was a low volume production and has been out of production for over 20 years. The same principles apply to any old marine engine.

In a Centaur it is way overpowered and not the best choice anyway. Typical re-engine jobs are 15-20hp units. However, it would be infinitely better than the old 23hp Volvo it replaced.

 

[GrahamC]

Hi All
I notice nobody has told what the cold start procedure is, so here it is
1 Push in the Button on the Throttle/Gear lever and set it to half speed
2 Pull out the Stop control fully and then push it back fully. This engages the cold start mechanisim that lets extra fuel into the fuel pump.
Start the engine , check for water at exhaust, let it warm up and then return gear lever to neutral, (the button should pop out and you are ready to go) should tick over at around 500/700 rpm.
Kindest
GrahamC

 

[Red Admiral]

They are also prone to overheating. In my experience this can be caused by scaling up of the cooling water channels in the exhaust elbow. These channels are very tortuous and difficult to clean effectively without damaging the elbow. The long-term answer is a new elbow, about £190.
Derek

The main problem with overheating is the brass by-pass tube passing through the cylinder head getting scaled and clogged. There have been loads of threads on this. Basically, rectification is easy either by cleaning/renewing tube and by enlarging the bleed holes which pass cooling water into head and block. Little dismantling is required.