Volvo 2003 injector sleve

mldpt

mldpt

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Hi I have leak on my No 1 injector on my 2003, it runs and starts fine but it blows whan running, and fills the boat with exhaust fumes, I have tried tighening it but this makes no difference. I am inclined to thisk that the copper sleve that the injector clamps down into and onto forming a seat has been damages, Has anybody out there changed one of these if so how big a job was it. I have the injector extractor tool and have had them out before I think I have seen a special tool for removing the old sleve, but is it just a matter of inserting the new sleeve and tightening the injector down onto it.
Regards Mike
 
It's a bit more complex than that - you need to flare the base of the sleeve after it's installed (there's another special tool for that). It's all quite well explained in the workshop manual, which you can download from the BlueMoment website.

I know it's frowned upon, but had you thought of popping a thin copper washer under the injector and seeing whether you could seal it on to that?
 
There is a special tool for expanding(rolling) the injector sleeve in place so it becomes fixed. This needs to be done correctly as both under and overexpanding can cause problems. Some Volvo dealers will rent the tool however if buying a new sleeve then why not take the head to the dealer.

As another has said it is sometimes possible to get a gas tight seal by using a thin copper washer. HAve to beware of using too thick a washer as this can cause the jets o be obstructed by the head.
 
Using a copper washer of any thickness is not recommended. First, check that a black tarry residue has not built up inside the sleeve. If so it must be cleaned using sopay water and a scotch bright cloth untill the side and bottom are copper. Clean the end of the injector in the same way. Refit and test.

If still leaking put a smallamount of fine grinding paste around the tip of the injector and twist back and to for a few minutes. Clean inside of sleeve and retest.

If still leaking, I have known that a slight tap with a hammer onto the protected end of the injector will 'form' the sleeve to the injector.

Good luck

Roy
 
Hey Roy

You seem to know a lot about these! Could you pls enlighten me why my 2003T sometimes refuses to put on revs, then seems to clear its throat and work fine? I've checked fuel quality, engine was rebuilt in 2004 - getting tappets adjusted this winter..

Any comments welcome and sorry about Fred the Drifter!
 
I successfully used a soft washer (I had no other choice given where I was, the fumes were going to finish us off) and it has worked fine since...(I will fix it properly this winter by replacing the sleeve) Grinding out the defect using grinding paste seems a v good idea, but I would be hesitant to do this with the head in place as the resultant gunge is likely to find its way to where it is not wanted. The injector will be marginally lower, rather than a little higher with a washer, within the combustion chamber, but I don't kow what the design clearance of the spray beneath the head surface is supposed to be.
 
On a direct combustion engine, the clearance between the injector tip and the top of the piston is very small or the compression would be low. I think that using a washer moves the tip of the injector out of the cylinder but you now need 2 high pressure sealing surfaces instead of one. As for the grinding paste you only need a tiny amount.

You should not do anything to move the tip of the injector into the cylinder. If the piston hit it the piston is likely to be knackered.
 
I have some experience with the 2002 and 2003 but not the 2003T but for a few ideas, your problem could b due to the fuel rack not moving smoothly, the high pressure pump needing servicing or adjusting and of course the turbo itself. Its unlikly to be due to the tappets but if they are rattling gp ahead with their adjutment
 
thanks for your reply, does the head have to com off then ? or can it be done from the top
Mike
.........................................................................................

The head is usually taken off for two reasons....

1... To pressure test after expanding the sleeve into place

2.. Ensuring that the end of the sleeve is correctly orientated in the cylinder head.

The sleeve on some Volvo engines is not totally cylindrical ie the end is bevelled and it is possible that this bevel is filed after the sleeve is expanded in place.

You have to check out what you receive against the workshop manual for that engine. I find Volvo agents very good at giving advice so suggest you talk to yours. The advise will be worth paying the Volvo price /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The copper washer LIFTS the injector away from the piston not as mentioned elswhere here.. Grinding is not an option as the copper sleeve is soft and the nozzle nut hard so what will happen is that the paste will embed in the copper sleeve and grind the nut /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif..Volvo may have a flat seat cutter but this could need experience to use as if it chatters you will have a worse leak.
 
I had this with my peugeot 505 turbo diesel. I am reasonably sure that it is the turbo. From memory it is the waste gate sticking preventing the turbo from working, ie the engine does not get much air. It too cleared, but in the end I replaced the turbo. There are car specialists that may be a cheaper source. In my experience, (with cars) the concern is worn turbo bearings allowing the oil to feed the engine whence it goes up to max revs until all the sump oil is burnt. The only way to stop it is to block the air intake. I've seen it twice!
 
Volvo 2003T...

[ QUOTE ]
I am reasonably sure that it is the turbo. From memory it is the waste gate sticking preventing the turbo from working, ie the engine does not get much air.

[/ QUOTE ]There isn't a wastegate on a 2003T.
 
uh oh conflicting advice re grinding-in. Prince Madoc have you successfuly done this? as doing this and using a washer would solve the vertical location problem, although giving more surfaces prone to leak as noted.. I think the design detail is poor as leaking seems to be a common problem
 
Re: Volvo 2003 injector sleeve

You are right about this being a design weakness.

I had the injector sleeves replaced and was told by the volvo engineer to use grinding paste on the bottom of the injector if they still leaked, which of course two did.

The paste worked fine and solved the leak. Using only a little and positioned on the bearing surface of the injector (away from the tip) and not working it too hard before wiping and starting again was straightforward and meant (as far as I know) none dropped down into the cylinder.
 
Re: Volvo 2003 injector sleeve

Thanks very much for this....I shall now carry a tad of paste as well as a soft washer for such an emergency..........unless I install a new Beta!
 
I had the same problem with no 1 .I removed the injector and with a machine drill the same diameter as the injector which cuts at the end i rotated by hand until i had a new copper bottom to the sleeve removing the swarf with a hoover.
Fitted all back together and has been fine since.
 
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