Volvo 2002: why does oil spit out of dipstick?

The original MD 1 had an internal breather from the pushrodspace via a valve/strainer into the inlet valve passage from the air cleaner. I suspect that as the 2002 has SOLAS certification it might have a similar system . The head had to be removed on the MD1 to get at this valve which is there to prevent the flooding of the engine if immersed!
 
vyv_cox said:
The very simplest compression test is to bar the engine over using a socket spanner on the bolt on the end of the crankshaft. If the compression is good it will take considerable effort to turn it over top dead centre. This is somewhat subjective but will give you a first indication. The usual test to be carried out next is to turn the engine over on the starter and squirt oil into the intake. This coats the bores and temporarily seals leakage past the rings. If the effort required to bar the engine over now increases you know there is a problem.
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I tried that. I used the original (v.short) starting handle and after initial resistance it turned without too much effort. Then attempted to squirt some oil in while turning over on starter (interesting wonder why it stops turning over with a wheezing sound after a few seconds if decompressor lifted {engine still warm so didn't want it to start}); then turned over on the handle and effort about the same but then could be my efforts at squirting oil into air intake ineffective.

Went for a bit of a test run on Tuesday just to try to validate previous impressions/possible over reaction to symptoms. a) takes a couple of goes to start cold b) no smoke, apart from initial start up up to full revs in neutral and up to 2000 revs under load - basically white smoke appears at about 2300 revs under load and gets thicker as 3000 approached, along with bad throbbing, which may be engine but also could be fouled prop, in spite of 3 coats of Velox.
I will check the elbow in the New Year if I can get the exhaust hose off but my instinct is that it's serviceable within certain parameters (e.g not something to rely on for punching against an adverse tide) but a fairly worn 30 year old engine that may well have further issues down the line when expensive/unobtainable parts and labour costs make overhaul not likely to be an economic proposition for what is a fairly nasty engine anyway. So a re-engine now, giving me 5 years of reliable service, or longer if I'm still capable, makes a certain amount of sense.
 
eddystone said:
Just having some second thoughts like do I really need to replace this engine? Having concluded now that my "steam" under load is maybe all white smoke no question injectors need doing, but engineer inspection (and he has a good reputation in the area) said oil spitting out of dipstick tube and heavy breathing evident when oil filler cap removed indicative of excess crankcase pressure oil blowing past rings (there is a film of oil over the water in the bilge). On a quick trip down to boat today I gave the engine a run. Although not under load as I didn't have time to go for a run, no white smoke even at over 3000 rpm, really good flow of water so no cooling issues (but definitely spits oil when dipstick removed) Also starts first time from cold. The suggested action was to have injectors overhauled, remove and skim head, replacing valve seats (and maybe exhaust valves) but recognising this may indicate more extensive overhaul needed. This would to me be acceptable cost if I get 5 years (250-500 hours) out of engine since the boat will probably be worth very little then with or without a newish engine. However, if dismantling shows need for more extensive overhaul e.g. rings and pistons, then a new engine makes more sense, I think. But if there is evidence that oil is blowing past rings in what circumstances could this not indicate the need for more extensive work than just a head job?
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It starts ok, therefore compression there or thereabouts, it spits oil out of the dipstick when running, well it would wouldnt it? especially if the level is a bit over. Dipsticks not usually designed to be used when running. It puffs out of the filler cap, well again, it will with the pistons going up and down. The cap hole is bigger than the breather, the engine internal breathing system will take the path of leasr resistance. Who says the injectors need doing? Why would an engineer advise skimming the head! Over haul the valves to address what is probably a mis diagnosis anyway? If you percieve there is a problem then an engineer needs to address that problem! You seem to have fixated on the bores are worn. The evidence of easy starting seems to suggest otherwise! However if you want to confirm the engine is worn then a compression test is the only trusted diagnostic that will do it. You are taking the advice of an engineer that based on your postings is not doing the diagnosing in a logical way. There is a lot of money at stake here!
Stu
 
third engines said:
A leak test demands a supply of compressed air and other devices valves etc. You only need a simple compression test. Injectrs out and a fitting to replace the injectors with an adaptor to fit a pressure gauge, spin engine and note readings. Made one to fit our test set with an old injector.
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A leak test? for heavens sake what is wrong with people. The diagnostic is a COMPRESSION test! The injectors out and a tool in that allows the compression to be measured. As Vyv says, the simplest is barring it over but then you need the tool. Be aware that the 200x series engines had a weird injector/ head/ coolant passage system where a copper sleeve is used as the sealer and if you remove the injectors and try to refit without the special tools then it all goes tits up.
Stu
 
skipper_stu said:
A leak test? for heavens sake what is wrong with people. The diagnostic is a COMPRESSION test! The injectors out and a tool in that allows the compression to be measured. As Vyv says, the simplest is barring it over but then you need the tool. Be aware that the 200x series engines had a weird injector/ head/ coolant passage system where a copper sleeve is used as the sealer and if you remove the injectors and try to refit without the special tools then it all goes tits up.
Stu
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Come along Skipper, read all the post. I was also trying, in the nicest possible way to lead this guy away from a leak test and into a simple compression test. It wernt me that suggested a leak test in the first place.
 
Worn rings or bore leading to poor compression then blue smoke, no?
White smoke if it's not steam then a fuel problem, injectors, ignition timing or valve clearance/adjustment, no?
 
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