Volvo 2002 Stern Gland Replacement

[stylo]

In preparation for replacing my stern gland I've read with interest many related articles and seen the informative cox engineering site.

My situation on a MG335 is that there is little space (15mm) at the engine/gearbox side of the stern gland for removal of the insertion tool though I expect with the wiggling we'll manage it. Alternatives seem if anything to be longer than the Volvo option so given the space restrictions will be best to go with that (25mm shaft).

Another consideration is that I suspect the current stern gland has been there for 10+ years so anticipate some challenges in removal of the shaft. Any tips on this appreciated for this!

I think that I need to remove the 6 bolts going through the collar type connection and also the central bolt that I think goes through the shaft itself. Does the shaft then get pulled out maybe with some gentle prising apart of the collar along the groove (have enough clearance for prop to move backwards) or is it necessary also to remove that collar with the additional 4 bolts and separate that from the gearbox side collar?

 

[Malish]

It all looks very cosy to me (too cosy), hate to say it but I would consider moving the engine forward slightly on its mounts to get some room more room during installation.

 

[Tranona]

Wow that is tight. You are right in your approach. You will have to remove both the coupling from the gearbox and then from the shaft and then push the shaft back (hopefully the rudder is not in the way! Not sure why there is a bolt through the coupling as it is a clamp which does not need one. However you have what you have and that might make it easier to slide the coupling off the shaft after you have removed both the bolt and slackened the clamp screws. The seal is 115mm long so the shaft needs to go back that amount before you can remove the old one and put the new on. Suggest you use a Radice/RMTA version with a vent and greasing point.

You will have earned your beer when you have done this job.

 

[wingcommander]

Wow that is tight. You are right in your approach. You will have to remove both the coupling from the gearbox and then from the shaft and then push the shaft back (hopefully the rudder is not in the way! Not sure why there is a bolt through the coupling as it is a clamp which does not need one. However you have what you have and that might make it easier to slide the coupling off the shaft after you have removed both the bolt and slackened the clamp screws. The seal is 115mm long so the shaft needs to go back that amount before you can remove the old one and put the new on. Suggest you use a Radice/RMTA version with a vent and greasing point.

You will have earned your beer when you have done this job.

Is that not allready a vent / grease point, to the right of jubilee clamp pic no 1.

 

[stylo]

Is that not allready a vent / grease point, to the right of jubilee clamp pic no 1.

I think that's for air to avoid so much getting into the stern gland

 

[stylo]

Wow that is tight. You are right in your approach. You will have to remove both the coupling from the gearbox and then from the shaft and then push the shaft back (hopefully the rudder is not in the way! Not sure why there is a bolt through the coupling as it is a clamp which does not need one. However you have what you have and that might make it easier to slide the coupling off the shaft after you have removed both the bolt and slackened the clamp screws. The seal is 115mm long so the shaft needs to go back that amount before you can remove the old one and put the new on. Suggest you use a Radice/RMTA version with a vent and greasing point.

You will have earned your beer when you have done this job.

Looks like the Volvo one is actually the shortest of the options.

Anyone know the size of the insert that protects the lips when installing? I may cut this into 3-4 pieces to aid removal after installing

 

[Tranona]

Looks like the Volvo one is actually the shortest of the options.

Anyone know the size of the insert that protects the lips when installing? I may cut this into 3-4 pieces to aid removal after installing

From memory they are all the same - I replaced a Volvo with a Radice in a similar tight installation. In that case because the rudder stopped the shaft moving back, the engine was moved forward. suspect that tube is an old grease point rather than a vent. Make sure the shaft is definitely 25mm rather than 1". The 0.4 mm difference is critical.

 

[stylo]

Quick update on this which may help others.

Removal of the prop shaft collar from the gearbox connection was OK, bolts not too tight - even with limited space.
Removal of collar from prop shaft took some time - bolts OK to remove but collar quite wedged on, took a little persuasion to remove.
Removed old gland no problem
Cleaned up shaft as much as poss in the shaft tube area.
Installed new stern gland with grease and the protective lip seal thing in place

The issue was always going to be removal of the inner protective cover from stern gland:
Tested re-assembly and had stern gland as close as poss to final position on shaft, removed protective cover and then slid shaft through another 100mm to put on collar + re-attach. Hopefully that amount of movement on a lightly greased prop shaft is OK for the lips in the stern gland

Getting prop shaft fully back in collar was also a challenge - needed some persuasion from the prop end to get it set fully into the shaft

Will be back in the water in a week or so hopefully so will see if all OK then