Volvo 2002 Fuel Filter Changing

I have a 2003 with the same filter and an engineer told me the easy way to change the fuel filter with no bleeding or pumping needed.
Leave the fuel on, put a container under the filter as you unscrew it to catch the filter and some fuel.(I use an ice cream tub), hold the new filter under the fuel coming out and fill it up then screw it on. I have paper towels ready but it is not as messy as it sounds.
I have done it this way for 12 seasons and the engine always starts first time with plenty of throttle. The engine is self bleeding as said by others.

An MD6 certainly isn't, there has been progress since the 1970's! :)
 
I have a 2003 with the same filter and an engineer told me the easy way to change the fuel filter with no bleeding or pumping needed.
Leave the fuel on, put a container under the filter as you unscrew it to catch the filter and some fuel.(I use an ice cream tub), hold the new filter under the fuel coming out and fill it up then screw it on. I have paper towels ready but it is not as messy as it sounds.
I have done it this way for 12 seasons and the engine always starts first time with plenty of throttle. The engine is self bleeding as said by others.

Naturally that requires the fuel level in the tank to be somewhat higher than the filter!
 
One last bit of advice.. to one and all..

If you decompress the cylinders to help turning over whilst bleeding the fuel from the fuel pump through to the injectors...

... ...... turn off the sea water inlet.


Otherwise you can find water getting into the exhaust manifold and back into the cylinders!!!! (don't ask how I know:rolleyes:)
 
I'm pretty sure this is the same as the 2003 fuel filter. This is an easy job.

I always start the engine first so that if it doesn't start afterwards I know it's a fuel issue. Obviously stop it before doing this job!
The fuel filter spins off like the oil filter but you may need a filter wrench if it has been on for ages. Keep it upright as it is full of fuel.
Wipe a bit of diesel on the rubber seal of the new filter and screw it in - hand tight is enough.
On the top of the housing nearest you is the bleed screw and that should be loosened a few turns.
On the right side of the engine as you look at it is a lift pump,with a lever you can move up and down. Doing this pumps the fuel through and fills up the filter. Keep going until the fuel coming out of the bleed screw has no bubbles of air. Tighten the bleed screw ( not too hard). If the pump lever is not doing anything then turn the engine over a bit so that the cam inside comes in the right place.
Start the engine, crack open a beer!

As above. The only thing I'd add is that a plastic bag over the filter stops even a small amount of diesel being lost. And I find that a filter wrench is always necessary.
 
I have a D1 20 rather than a 2002 but as far as I know the filters are the same. In my case I have a primary CAV filter which is below tank level and I have to turn off the fuel supply at the tank outlet. However, because it is below the tank, when the fuel it is turned back on and being on the low pressure side it bleeds itself when the engine is running. If changing both primary and secondary filters it is best to do them as separate tasks. First change the primary filter and made sure the engine is running and the filter has bled itself. Then move onto the secondary filter as others have described. You can do it the other way round but I prefer to make sure any water, crud etc is out of the way in the primary filter before fitting a new secondary one. What you don't want to do is take both off at the same time as then you can't start the engine to bleed the primary filter and you have a lot of pumping to do to try and clear all the air out of both primary and secondary filters using the lift pump manually.
 
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