Vm 4.2 220 hp 2859 questions

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PickleRick

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What's my max safe operating temp? On plans she hits roughly 185 to 195 on analog gauge.

Otherwise she sits at 175

Im used to 190 to 200 degree auto diesels.


She goes over 3000 rpms and is hitting 18.5 ish knotts.

Soft bottom paint. Trailer kept so no growth but not as good as gelcoat or hard bottom paint.

Is that about aveage perfomance for her? New boat to me, been sitting for a good 6 plus months before I purchased her.
 
A little updateThe longer she ran the better she ran. On a short run she got over 20 knotts. 22 knots i believe. The tach is a little wonky at times as are a few other gauges. When tapped they seem to respond .

Still sub 200 degrees wot. Still not getting above 3000 rpms that i can tell. Im not sure if shes supposed to top out at 3200 or 3600 rpms, im hoping an expert/owner of one of these can chime in
 
Ill continue to update here so when a diesel expert chimes in i help with a proper assessment.

Cold start is very quick and easy. Idles well. No reason to suspect a compression issue.

No smoke, white or black at any time.

Im going to look tonight for a place to install a boost gauge and look at the inlet fins of the turbo


Im open to ideas on a pyro meter install as well as ideas on how to make sure the exhaust isnt too restrictive from blockage.

I have a full water tank, empty holding tank. 3/4 or more fuel from 102 gallon tank.

3 group 27 batteries.

6 gallon hot water tank.

Portable ac and small portable 2200 inverter generator.

Light packing for 3 on board.

Im betting that sub 1/2 tank of fuel and half full water tank may get me to 25 knotts. Some weight up front may help too. Possibly some bigger trim tabs or learn to use them better.
 
It does have amanual with it. Fell asleep reading it this weekend. Reading on a boat always puts me to sleep. I didn't see those specs so thank you. Im sure they are in there.

I feel better knowing im in proper temp range and i do need more rpms. I will now play with the tabs and trim settings.


Shes a pretty simple d.i. turbo diesel.
 
Good question. Im not sure. Im currently looking for an electric sending unit boost gauge to install in gauge pod on my console. I am pretty sure i hear it spool but i need to verify pressure.
 
All the pics im trying to post say are too big.

This has an air to water intercooler. My serial is 0L344752

The turbo Charge(cool side) feeds into a rectangular shaped box before going into the large log shaped after cooler. Is this box coolant filled or can i tap it for my boost gauge?
My throttle goes all the way to the stop adjustment so its good there unless someoene has messed with it.

My turbo fins on cool side look new and spin freely. I have a metal tube going from my waste gate to the intercooler (also intake built into one)

I dont have a waste gate actuator i can pressurize to see if its moving freely.

Sorry for all the repetitive posts. Trying to do as many simple visual tests as possible to help eliminate issues.

I may just have a big slow boat that will only do top speed near empty.
 
Going back to basics. You have a 28ft + flybridge boat with a single 220hp engine. I would say it is massively underpowered. I know of a 2556, which is a smaller version of your boat, with 260hp and that is marginal.
 
The 2858 was the flybridge. 2859 is the hard top.

These also came with a 350. Dry weight is sub 8000 lbs but its my experience that manufacturers usually estimate low.
 
Every pic i try to post from my phone says its too big. The part number is mercuruiser 816789.

if you copy and paste that into google you'll see some parts break downs in the image search.
 
PickleRick said:
The 2858 was the flybridge. 2859 is the hard top.

These also came with a 350. Dry weight is sub 8000 lbs but its my experience that manufacturers usually estimate low.
Click to expand...


Good point. Bayliner are so confusing with their numbers. I was thinking of the 2858, or was it the 2958 :p

Anyway, 8000lb will be wildly below reality, so in likelihood you have a 4ton + boat with 220hp. I have a 28ft boat of around 4+ tons with 300hp and I find it a bit underpowered. Your boat will need everything to be just right to get anywhere near optimum performance. That means clean hull, clean drive, undamaged prop, right size prop and engine working at 100%. If any one of them is not right, you will find the boat struggles.
 
The hull is clean. It appears the hull was cleaned when the p.o. had her loaded and shipped. I tow her 45 min to the lake each weekend. She sits in my drive way during the week. The bottom looks clean although for my usage id rather have gel coat or hard bottom paint. That is a good knott or so right there im missing. I know its a big boat to tow but my rig handles 12k and she sits on a brand new aluminum tri axle trailer. She tows better than my 23 ft boat on a galvanized tandem.

I plan to call to hill Marine once i verify my engine is tip top shape. Im hitting slightly over 3000 rpms. I'm roughly guessing approx 3100 to 3200 at 22 knots. Im betting @25 knots will be top speed wot once all bugs are worked out. I have heard their 4x4 props work wonders on big heavy single screw motors. Im still working to hit that 3600. I also want to see how she does once I'm below half a tank of diesel in that 102 gal tank. She sips fuel, is at 3/4 tank now. Might take a few weekends.

I need my crusing speed to stay 19knots or above as she stops pushing water at 18. Cruising would be 3000 to 3200. I believe.


Id love to find another owner of this boat and engine combo to touch base with on their perfomance or lack there of.

We spend most of our time using this as a trawler going hull speed. The diesel engine needs to be wound out under load for an hour or two for each days use to keep her in good shape and prevent carbon/coking issues.

I've only had her on the water one weekend, ive only owned her for 2 weeks now. After a weekend on the water she barely used any fuel.
 
I spoke with hill marine yesterday. I gave them the weight, hp and useage of boat. I also gave them the current 18 3/4- 17p 3 blade stainless prop info. I also told them i felt over propped and needed to gain about 400 to 500 rpms

I was recommended a 4 blade big cow 16p. 18.5 inch i believe.

I'm not a prop expert but when going from 3 to 4 prop i thought i needed to drop pitch by 2 inches to maintain rpm, and to gain rpm by 500 i need to drop 2 more inches, giving me a 13p prop. With a 16p 4 blade wouldnt i be over propped even more compared to my 3 blade 17p?

I looked into prop sizing a bit years ago when i was looking at maranizing 2 vw tdi engines i have, my math and calculations may be only as good as the knowledge I retained on the matter years ago.
 
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