vinyl Headlining

[graham]

Does anybody know of a supplier of smooth foam backed vinyl headlining material and the adhesive ?

Ideally mail order or in Humberside/North Lincs area.

thanks Graham

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[snowleopard]

hawke house at fareham - try a google.

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[jerryat]

'morning Graham,

There have been two or three threads here recently giving lots of advice (some from myself!) re the location of glues/linings etc etc. I suggest you do a search, as I believe you'll find all the answers to your questions, though not, as far s I can recall, with suppliers in your area. I used Hawke House, who weren't cheap, but were knowledgable, and would probably mail order you.

If the search doesn't give you what you need, post again, and we'll help out as much as we can.

Cheers

Jerry

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[AndrewB]

We redid ours with vinyl bought mail-order from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hawkehouse.com>Hawke House</A>. As others say, good people to deal with. We've just had new cushions from them as well, they supplied the pre-cut foam and material for us to make up.

Incidentally they are regularly at boat shows, if you want face-to-face contact.

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[waverider]

What glue would you recomend I use on headlinings jerryat?.....Last time I used Dunlop Thixofix.....when the sun warmed up the deck the bloody headlining came unstuck!

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[VicS]

The suppliers of the headlining will supply suitable adhesives. All my materials came from Hawke House Marine. They supplied me with a liquid impact adhesive to apply to the fibreglass and a spray to apply to the back of the headlining, also a PVA adhesive for use on plywood panels. If you are based in a warm climate there may be adhesives more suitable than those normally used in the UK.

If you are using an impact adhesive remember that good ventilation is essential and I would also advise the use of an 'Organic vapours' mask as the solvent (methylbenzene) is very hazardous to inhale. The masks are also available from Hawke House.

Hawke House also do a very useful 'hints and tips' leaflet.

As already suggested do a search on the forum as the topic has been aired extensively on more than one occasion. In fact a search for 'Hawke House' will find it all.

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[jerryat]

Hi Waverider,

Vic has answered your question really. I too got my adhesives from Hawke House. The 'evostick' type was called 'Trade HH', the 'HH' standing for high heat, apparently designed to resist the higher temperature commonly found in the Med/Caribbean. The spray is essential and MUST be used on the foam itself. Do not use the HH as it soaks into the foam and causes problems - anyway, the spray is far, far easier to use! Hawke House (or your chosen supplier) will advise you on the number of cans of spray and tins of HH you'll need.

So, as Vic says, HH onto the plywood panels/ grp, spray onto the foam, let 'dry' (to the touch) then wham, into place.

Hope it all goes well for you,

Cheers

Jerry

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[AndrewB]

Whamming into place.

Didn't work quite like that for me. I have thin ply headboards, on which the headlining is stuck. The vinyl stretches ever so slightly, and although it would be put on nice and taut, it tended to shrink back a little over the headboards as it dried. I inserted tiny tacks to hold it firmly stretched in place while drying, which were removed afterwards. As far as possible where the holes would not be seen afterwards, but actually they are almost invisible.

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[jerryat]

Re: Whamming into place.

Hi Andrew,

Sorry to say it, but your method is not the best according to Hawke House. All my saloon and forecabin headlinings are ply based (which are then screwed into place) and I made a special point of checking the best way of doing these.

Despite my heavy scepticism and to my surprise, HH were unequivocal. You MUST lay the foam backed vinyl face down on a firm flat surface. Spread the HH glue on the ply and set aside. Spray the marked area of the foam with the canned glue. WAIT until both are touch dry (this hugely reduces the amount of solvent trapped, which could bu**er the foam eventually) then turn the ply panel glued side DOWN and press firmly down onto the foam.

Yes, I too expected that I'd end up with heaps of 'bubbles' and crinkles, but didn't get a single one!! It doesn't just work on small panels - three of mine were about seven feet long and two and a half feet wide. This method eliminates any 'stretching' of the vinyl, the need for pins and the like, and the problems associated with trying to handle damn great lumps of sticky vinyl.

Now the important bit - allow to dry/cure for AT LEAST 24 hours to allow the vinyl to settle into it's final position, then turn the edges over and either glue or staple into place as you choose. You end up with perfectly smooth, even panels anyone would be proud of.

Hope this helps anyone doing a similar sort of job.

Cheers

Jerry

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[VicS]

Re: Whamming into place.

Yes I agree with the technique of doing ply panels face down, but this is one place you can avoid the smell and the hazardous fumes associated with impact adhesives. If you follow Hawke House's recommendations you use a water resistant PVA wood glue. In fact for this part of the job I worked on the sitting room floor!

I over estimated the quantity required but I probably now have enough wood glue to last for the rest of my life.

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[AndrewB]

Lifetime supply of glue.

Yes, same here, maybe that's how they make their profit.

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[jerryat]

Re: Whamming into place.

Hi Vic!

Yes, Hawke House did suggest PVA as an alternative, but were less than enthusiastic about it compared to the HH stuff. They did offer a reason (apart from cost - the PVA was much cheaper) but I simply can't remember what it was. Being ultra cynical, it wouldn't have been the profit motive would it?!!!!

Cheers

Jerry

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[VicS]

Re: PVA adhesive

I think the main reason is that it is waterbased. It is, therefore, more environmentally friendly than solvent based adhesives and is much less hazardous to to the user, both from the toxicity and the flammability aspects.

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[waverider]

Thanks for the tip jerryat...thing is I am now considering just painting the topsides in the forecabin, the problem like most boats forward near the hatch there are a lot of curves and compound angles which is a bitch of a job to glue vinyl! Then if I paint the surface I will then have condensation......What paint do Submarines use inside?.......of course the other option is to probably glue up a light fabric rather than vynil. As for glue fumes yes they are very heavy m8.....I used to work in paint refinishing, a cheap charcoal filter mask can be purchased from a car refinishing paint supplier and should cost around £18.00!

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[Gunfleet]

cheaper might be http://www.woolies-trim.ur-net.com/ - car trim suppliers

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[jerryat]

Hi Waverider,

I have no idea what paint subs use, but years ago I tried Internationals Anti-condensation paint on grp, but whilst it did reduce it a bit, I still had mildew after a while.

Why don't you do what I and many others did and have the compound curved bits pre-sewn for you. In the case of the Fulmar, the forecabin centre section is made up of three pieces sewn together, so that application is almost the same as with a 'flat' piece.

Have a word with Hawke House and see if they have the templates for your boat design, and get a price. The sewn panels aren't cheap (what is in boating these days?!) but do produce a truely professional finish.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Jerry



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[waverider]

thanks jerryat......I shall look into it.....WR

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[Ocean Hound]

try a guy called Roger Nantais (Google) - Poole based. Much more competetive than Hawkehouse & also holds patterns for several marques - Westerleys a speciality. Can fit or just supply the fabric cut to pattern + adhesives
Edward

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