Vinyl headlining coming away .... UGH !!

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I have areas of Vinyl coming away from the surfaces in the cabin. It leaves behind awful foam that becomes dust when you touch.
I tried brushing the foam away and then carpet spray adhesive to fix back but no joy ...

Any suggestions ??

Note I don't know of any people over here that do such work .. so its all down to me !!
 
I have areas of Vinyl coming away from the surfaces in the cabin. It leaves behind awful foam that becomes dust when you touch.
I tried brushing the foam away and then carpet spray adhesive to fix back but no joy ...

Any suggestions ??

Note I don't know of any people over here that do such work .. so its all down to me !!

Bite the bullet . Rip it off, clean off all the resdual foam and adhesive ... the worst part of the whole job ,, and replace with similar, carpet lining or lining glued to ply boards

Anything glued directly to the GRP pretty much has to be done with a solvent based adhesive (good ventilation and an "Organic vapours" mask essential) Vist Hawke House website for info , advice and materials ??

A water resistant PVA wood glue can be used to glue on to ply ......... Water based so no toxic fumes.

Searush ( remember him?) supported the sagging head lining in his Westerly with wooden battens ... looked quite smart in the photos he posted
 
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My whole boat ended up like that. Rather than clean the headboards many were replaced with new thin ply and then covered with the new lining. On the ply boards that I refurbished I used a combination of stiff plastic bristle brush, scraper and even a wire brush to clean up the boards. Large grit sand paper applied with a softish backing pad also worked. Finished with a both a disc sander and a gritty mop.

I did not find that spray adhesive worked well with later sagging of the lining (new foam backed lining) but it might work better with no foam backed lining. The brush brush on contact adhesive was supplied by the lining material and 4 years later going strong.

My recommendation would be to replace the boards with new should the mess be difficult to remove, not worth the effort.
 
Searush ... certainly do.

I have seen over the years where people remove vinyl and replace with white board and natural wood strips. Reminds me of the Hilyard my Father had.

The deckhead is still good - in fact as good as new ... its the aft bulkheads at the top and where it goes under cockpit benches ...

Above the through bulkhead compass ... the people who applied it - have done same as carpet people ... doubled over the edge. I cannot get that to sit in neat at all ... after it started to peel away.
 
A few years ago I had a similar problem. I used an adhesive SAF 111 from a company called the The Glue People (TGP). It’s a brushable contact adhesive it’s a thick as treacle. I also used TGP Trade tack sprayable contact adhesive for the foam, basically a carpet adhesive. Great results. If you are replacing the vinyl and foam then use the old vinyl as a template. You’ll end up wearing this stuff. Good luck.
 
Searush ... certainly do.

I have seen over the years where people remove vinyl and replace with white board and natural wood strips. Reminds me of the Hilyard my Father had.

The deckhead is still good - in fact as good as new ... its the aft bulkheads at the top and where it goes under cockpit benches ...

Above the through bulkhead compass ... the people who applied it - have done same as carpet people ... doubled over the edge. I cannot get that to sit in neat at all ... after it started to peel away.

If you doble over the edge cut away a strip of the foam and fold the vinyl back just over one thickness of foam, I have done that on many edges to produce a neat finish , but not where it'll be exposed to any wear.

Also in inside corners between adjacent surfaces cut one piece to lap round the corner, like you do when wallpapering. but strip the foam off the edge bit before sticking down the vinyl alone.


If necessary to stick vinyl to vinyl there is s special glue. Available from Hawke House like everything else but i expect the glue for PVC inflatables will do just as well if you have some.
 
I once went to view a boat (Westerly Longbow) where the owner had wallpapered the quarter berth, I walked away...

Our Morgan Giles 30 was artexed in the quarterberths and inside saloon lockers and forepeak cave lockers when we got her . . . .

Currently replacing the lining in the forepeak on Fairwinds, our Albin Vega. I;ve scraped most of the adhesive residue off, but not all of it.; How important is it to get dowo to bare GRP? Surely new lining will stick just as well to stuck fast residue remains?

- W
 
Pro tip:

Spread adhesive on the boards ... and use a good quality spray adhesive (I recommend TuskBond) on the foam lined vinyl. DO NOT try and put spreadable adhesive on the foam, it squishes down and looks carp. Do not use spray adhesive on the boards, it lets go if it gets too warm.
 
When I recently replace some headlining, Hawke House advised you do not need to remove all the old adhesive. Just apply more on top and their spray adhesive on the foam. I did find you have a limited time that you can reposition the foam vinyl without causing any damage.
 
Pro tip:

....... Do not use spray adhesive on the boards, it lets go if it gets too warm.

That’s why mine failed, first on the sunny side when berthed, then later nearly all other places.
 
Do take care with solvent adhesives, I knew a lady who stuck vinyl in a quarter berth - she discovered ' glue sniffing ' long before it became trendy for idiots* - she was ' away with the fairies ' for days, it's dangerous stuff.

* When glue sniffing first became known, Punch magazine had a front page with the Bisto Kids, noses in the air " Ahh, Bostik ! "
 
Have done two boats now. Getting old glue/foam off has the same pleasure value as scraping off
old antifoul in the snow.

Used 3mm ply boards with headlining glued on them. Then ply velcroed to fibreglass using glued epoxied blocks.

The problem are the non flat areas, ie. glassed in stringers, hatch strengtheners , bulkhead joins etc. I used glue straight on to fabric type material sold by Jeckels in Norfolk . They use it themselves when upgrading yachts.
 
To remove the old foam off the grp, I used a vacuum cleaner with a stiff brush at the end. I also replaced the old vinyl with lightweight cord carpet. The carpet was so much easy to stick on the grp; it is also much warmer, no condensation, looks good and so much cheaper. I used spray glue, it works well if both surfaces are sprayed.
 
I used the one-sided self adhesive CLOSED CELL FOAM from Hawke house on the bare GRP once all the old stuff was removed. On the near waterline inside surfaces I used some of the spray+let dry adhesive first.
That lined the boat with a warm surface.
I used "Van-lining" cloth on top of the foam. using the spray+let dry adhesive on both surfaces. Tricky process but worked well. A very light silvery grey cloth looks and feels good. There is now close to 15mm of soft warm surface material inside the hull. Huge improvement.

Use an organic vapour mask and ventilation or you will end up with an enormous unpleasant hang-over.
 
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