Kelpie
Well-Known Member
Hoping someone can give me some pointers about these boats, e.g. construction (balsa? Foam?) Any known or common defects to watch for?
Tia
Tia
viewing sadler 32, what should i look out for?
- Thread starter Kelpie
- Start date
West Coast
Well-Known Member
Hi, suggest you also post in the Mike Lucas Yachting forum, which specialises in Sadler boats, likely to get some good comments there
awol
Well-Known Member
Outgrown the Vega already? Some Sadler 32s were home finished - do check the internals.
robmcg
Well-Known Member
Many have suffered osmosis. Nice boat BTW :encouragement:
superheat6k
Well-Known Member
A Contessa !
I am sceptical about osmosis, but when a foam or balsa core is involved any water penetration into the core would be über-expensive.
I am sceptical about osmosis, but when a foam or balsa core is involved any water penetration into the core would be über-expensive.
James_Calvert
Well-Known Member
Deck has a balsa core. Headlining is a lightweight GRP moulding (no drooping). Hull and topsides solid GRP laminate, no cores or foam involved (this is not one of the unsinkable Sadlers). Deck bedded onto inward lip of hull and bolted (many many bolts) through toe rail. Cast iron keel fastened with stainless steel studs and nuts with steel backing pads. Rudder lower bearing supported by part skeg.
We've owned ours for nearly 29 years now. No serious issues. Useful owners association, and also recommend the Sadler Starlight discussion forum.
We've owned ours for nearly 29 years now. No serious issues. Useful owners association, and also recommend the Sadler Starlight discussion forum.
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
Thanks, that's really useful info, just what I was looking for!
CFarr
Well-Known Member
When I was looking at S34's one of the things to check for was 'soft' decks. I think it's the same on 32's.
Easily checked and (I was told) not too expensive to repair depending on its extent but still something that will need attending to.
Mike Lucas is very helpful and will probably know of her.
Good luck, I've always admired them but a tad too small for us.
Easily checked and (I was told) not too expensive to repair depending on its extent but still something that will need attending to.
Mike Lucas is very helpful and will probably know of her.
Good luck, I've always admired them but a tad too small for us.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Agreed. Deck bonding - probably the only recognised weakness of the boat - IMHO better all-rounder than the 34.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I'm not absolutely certain but I thought the 32's decks were foam cored, as with all the later designs, rather than balsa. If there is any deck softness it can be cured by injecting epoxy resin. Fortunately the rot that can take place with balsa is not an issue. If the 32 is like my 34, the foam doesn't do a great deal anyway, it seems to be more a way of attaching the inner moulding than a strengthening method. A small area of my deck creaked a little when I bought the boat in 1995. It has gradually disappeared with no other problems.
MASH
N/A
Agree that the hull deck bond can leak and with all those bolts it would be a pain to deal with but it isn't likely to be a serious problem. Its a dry boat so any significant sign of water in the cabin bilges is worth investigating.(look inside lockers for sign of leaks)
I understand it is a balsa cored deck requires careful surveying or self checking. Tread over every bit of it listening for creaking, esp around the shroud chainplates and any other through-deck fitting. Creaking areas should ideally be professionally investigated unless they are small and you're happy with it.
Osmosis.Mine showed high moisture readings and I had it hotvaced but unless there's blistering showing I doubt it's necessary, the hull is so thick by modern standards - it is built to last, shall we say.
Gelcoat can go chalky with UV exposure but this is purely cosmetic.
The original Proctor(?) mast was practically indestructible and many still have them. If so try to check the masthead gear (sheaves etc) as they may too be somewhat aged and tend to be neglected - as in any boat. Due to age of mast cables tend to slap as there is (afaik) no cable trunking in there.
Check rudder bearings (inc the tiller bearing at deck level) for looseness/wear.
Most of the above is applicable to any boat so don't be put off. As ever look for one with a good engine, rigging and sails & there is a lot of varnish inside as you will discover if you ever try to refresh it!
The 'bathtub" under the cockpit sole is often neither fixed in place (for convenient access to the back of the engine) nor properly sealed so water ingress around it is common. Check this has not caused excessive corrosion by dripping on gearbox/control cable/back of engine/alternator. It is dead easy to seal if required.
It's a superb sea boat, inspires confidence, sails like a big dinghy - easy to singlehand, strong as a battleship. You'll love it!
If anyone wants a copy I have the Building Instructions as provided by Sadlers themselves.
I understand it is a balsa cored deck requires careful surveying or self checking. Tread over every bit of it listening for creaking, esp around the shroud chainplates and any other through-deck fitting. Creaking areas should ideally be professionally investigated unless they are small and you're happy with it.
Osmosis.Mine showed high moisture readings and I had it hotvaced but unless there's blistering showing I doubt it's necessary, the hull is so thick by modern standards - it is built to last, shall we say.
Gelcoat can go chalky with UV exposure but this is purely cosmetic.
The original Proctor(?) mast was practically indestructible and many still have them. If so try to check the masthead gear (sheaves etc) as they may too be somewhat aged and tend to be neglected - as in any boat. Due to age of mast cables tend to slap as there is (afaik) no cable trunking in there.
Check rudder bearings (inc the tiller bearing at deck level) for looseness/wear.
Most of the above is applicable to any boat so don't be put off. As ever look for one with a good engine, rigging and sails & there is a lot of varnish inside as you will discover if you ever try to refresh it!
The 'bathtub" under the cockpit sole is often neither fixed in place (for convenient access to the back of the engine) nor properly sealed so water ingress around it is common. Check this has not caused excessive corrosion by dripping on gearbox/control cable/back of engine/alternator. It is dead easy to seal if required.
It's a superb sea boat, inspires confidence, sails like a big dinghy - easy to singlehand, strong as a battleship. You'll love it!
If anyone wants a copy I have the Building Instructions as provided by Sadlers themselves.
MJ24
Well-Known Member
I have owned Triton for nearly 10 years. Great sailing boat.
Irritations have been the flexible water tanks, cockpit leaks into the engine bilge, the gas overflow pipe is in a silly place, and it does not like going backwards with an offset propeller.
Most of those can be fixed, a roomy boat but the so calked double Bert is a tight fit for two (good or not???)
Certainly a classic boat, and will look after you in interesting weather. Osmosis might but present in tiny patches, but at 34 years old who cares.
Go for it,
Mj
Irritations have been the flexible water tanks, cockpit leaks into the engine bilge, the gas overflow pipe is in a silly place, and it does not like going backwards with an offset propeller.
Most of those can be fixed, a roomy boat but the so calked double Bert is a tight fit for two (good or not???)
Certainly a classic boat, and will look after you in interesting weather. Osmosis might but present in tiny patches, but at 34 years old who cares.
Go for it,
Mj
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
The one I viewed has a stainless water tank under the starboard berth- is this standard?
MASH
N/A
Offset propellor - on a Sadler 32?
Are you sure?
I suspect that most 30yr old boats won't still have the original water tanks, but under stbd berth is a standard location.
Are you sure?
I suspect that most 30yr old boats won't still have the original water tanks, but under stbd berth is a standard location.
awol
Well-Known Member
MASH
N/A
Eheh! So you can. I hadn't thought of it like that! (Tho I can't imagine it has a noticeable effect on going astern.)
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
The 34 is built like that, it does make shaft removal far easier. But something has a noticeable effect on going astern, it is definitely not an easy boat in that direction.
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
This one had a big stainless affair, looked very well made but a huge lump of pointy-cornered weight unless very well fixed in place (which this one wasn't)
30boat
N/A
I can remove the shaft on my Fulmar without disturbing the rudder.All I need to do is to remove the cutless bearing first and the shaft will miss the rudder by lightly pushing it sideways.
MJ24
Well-Known Member
Only really know mine, but would like to have SS tanks.
Yes offset prop....
Mj
Yes offset prop....
Mj
