Very Slight Amount of Mould Under Mattress

matthewriches

matthewriches

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www.matthewriches.co.uk
Lifted the forward cabin double memory foam mattress yesterday afternoon to deal with a black water tank issue and was greeted with a very small amount of powdery mould, about the size of a saucer. Plywood solid base with 9" foam slab on top.

Nothing has leaked though :disgust: lol

I have read about slats, plastic honeycomb, etc being put under to create an air gap. Any first hand solutions to this problem? Will do all 3 mattresses when I find a solution.

TIA :)
 
MoodySabre said:
We use Dri-mat and it does what it is supposed to. Bring it up the sides so the air gets right round.
Click to expand...

We also use DRY-Mat. It's really expensive for what it is but it does take all of about 2 minutes to fit and cut to shape. Value of your time v.s messing ikea slats or other ideas.... take you pick.
 
Holes drilled in the plywood base only work effectively if there is ventilation for the space underneath.

We bought bed slats from Ikea. At the time they came slightly bowed. We bought so that 2 sets made one queen sized - but they did come in different single bed sizes. The slats were held in a rubber strip, each slat fitted into a pocket. We had to trim the slats slightly as our bed space narrowed slightly - but the slats still fitted into the pockets. They also had flat slats that were simply stapled to a hessian tape (which would lend themselves to trimming to fit an awkward space). But again these only work if there is ventilation, so you need to ensure there is an airgap - soemwhere - at the slat end is the obvious. At the time 15/20 years ago now - ours were cheap.

Its no use me looking at Ikea - we have different stock to yours - but many 'bed' retailers sell bed slats (and you can make them yourself) - though finding curved ones might need more effort.

We drilled the plywood base and added vents for the space underneath (so drilled and 'covered' the hole with circular vents), you can buy vents cheaply in most hardware stores.

If the issue is in the forepeak or a stern cabin (so not a space you use daily) you can always lift the mattress each morning with a prop, a big book will do. to allow ventilation after you use the berth.

Jonathan
 
Used Drimat for a number of years in our Bav having picked a roll up at SBS . Didn't interfere too much with access to underberth lockers in forecabin . Haven't got round to fitting in our Moody but no damp so far maybe as the mattresses are far thicker but might be simpler solution than battens or slats from ikea maybe?
 
We use 10mm polystyrene sheets under the matress and against any bulkhead, painted with emulsion, works really well
 
pine bed slats from ebay , 40 in total did forepeak cabin, side cabin x2 bunks, and aft master cut them to size right up to the forepeak V, go to B and Q get yourself a staple gun and webbing. Set out your slats the way you need them then lay the webbing on top 2 SIDES ,and staple on, hit staples lightly with a hammer so no snagging , then when you need to get under the bunk they just roll up , have no issues with mold , or wetness , and slats give a good support as well
total cost around 60 pounds
 
Neeves said:
Holes drilled in the plywood base only work effectively if there is ventilation for the space underneath. We bought bed slats from Ikea. At the time they came slightly bowed. We bought so that 2 sets made one queen sized - but they did come in different single bed sizes. The slats were held in a rubber strip, each slat fitted into a pocket. We had to trim the slats slightly as our bed space narrowed slightly - but the slats still fitted into the pockets. They also had flat slats that were simply stapled to a hessian tape (which would lend themselves to trimming to fit an awkward space). But again these only work if there is ventilation, so you need to ensure there is an airgap - soemwhere - at the slat end is the obvious. At the time 15/20 years ago now - ours were cheap. Its no use me looking at Ikea - we have different stock to yours - but many 'bed' retailers sell bed slats (and you can make them yourself) - though finding curved ones might need more effort. We drilled the plywood base and added vents for the space underneath (so drilled and 'covered' the hole with circular vents), you can buy vents cheaply in most hardware stores. If the issue is in the forepeak or a stern cabin (so not a space you use daily) you can always lift the mattress each morning with a prop, a big book will do. to allow ventilation after you use the berth. Jonathan
Click to expand...
Every under bench space and internal locker is vented into the main cabin areas on a HR.
 
matthewriches said:
Lifted the forward cabin double memory foam mattress yesterday afternoon to deal with a black water tank issue and was greeted with a very small amount of powdery mould, about the size of a saucer. Plywood solid base with 9" foam slab on top.

Nothing has leaked though :disgust: lol

I have read about slats, plastic honeycomb, etc being put under to create an air gap. Any first hand solutions to this problem? Will do all 3 mattresses when I find a solution.

TIA :)
Click to expand...

Used Dri-mat on my last boat not cheap absolutely brilliant, will use it again on my new boat.
 
The fabric on the bunk cushions does not cover the bottom face. This is made out of a different material that looks like a fine net, similar to that which is commonly used for mosquito screens. Never had a problem with ventilation, air circulation or condensation.
 
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