very confused

G

gary3029

Well-Known Member
Joined
22 Jul 2005
Messages
251
Location
Poole Dorset
Visit site
I am looking at buying a wooden boat. Some say you can winter a wooden boat on the water, in fact they prefer it. Others say they should be ashore in winter. I seem to be going around in circles on this one. I live in poole and the area I can winter the boat on the water is quite sheltered. The cost of winter shore storage..if you can get it....is to high to consider. This was one of the reasons for wood over GRP which I know has to come out of the water. Can any of you experts give me some sound advice on this matter, before I make an expensive mistake
regards
gary
 
Good news...

The answer is...

...it does not really matter whether you winter the boat ashore or afloat.

I've done both, over the years, and the only real difference is that fitting out is easier if you have the boat ashore.

On the other hand, if you winter afloat you may be able to score a cheap deal with a local yard to slip her in summer when they are not busy and the weather is good for painting - I also used to do that.

Good luck, and don't be put off. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Wooden boats are very tolerant things - think of the abuse that almost every wooden boat must have experienced at some time or other - they all come up smiling as long as its not total neglect for more than a couple of years!
 
Well, assuming you're preparing to take the other necessary steps to avoid an expensive mistake (survey, time and financial availability for maintenance etc.), it's not really an issue if the boat has been stored afloat. In fact, if she is already afloat, you will know that at least she can swim and won't have opened up too much.

It is more important to ascertain how much fresh water (eg. rainwater) she has been exposed to, and this will come down to how well covered she is/has been. A cockpit cover is the very least she should have, and preferably, should be covered right over to protect against water ingress and frost.

The various contributors to this forum can probably help more if you provide details of her construction - what type of wood she is made of, how her decks are fabricated, what sort of visual condition she is in as regards woodwork (varnished/painted) etc.

There is still controversy over the afloat/ashore question, but as far as I can tell, most people consider that wooden boats should never leave the water for too long.

/<
 
I wouldn't claim to be an expert but will give you my 2ps worth! You will find opinion divided I suspect and ultimately it's your call of course but hope we can help rather than confuse you further! Personally I'm happy to leave her in the water most of the time but do make sure that she's very regularly aired, etc. She seems to take no harm from this whatsoever. Having said that she's coming out this year so I can give the bottom a complete strip back, repaint, etc.
Good luck!
 
Hi
I am considering three boats. First one is as follows and gives details of build/history http://ybw.yachtworld.com/core/uk/listin...44&url=true

The second one is as follows
http://www.easternyachts.com/winternellie/
This one is in very godd condition...the owner built it. Problem is head room is very low.

3rd one is very nice and could be a real choice
http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/boats/s401204/s401204.htm

I want a wood boat...so much nice to look at than plastic, but either boat will have to spend most of their time on the water, apart from maintence. Of course I will get a survey on both the boat and engine before parting with my cash. So the general thought is ok to leave on water as long as regualr maintence programme.
Regards
gary
 
I've sent you a Private Message with a suggestion based on the details given above.

All three are nice boats but for your purposes I think one is more suitable than the others.

Good luck.
 
Would like to see your advice. For me, I wouldn't go for No 2 but would like to see 1 and 3 in the flesh. Would be worried (from past experience with TG) that the repairs to a plank (which one) and the toerail suggested a leaky deck and consequent freshwater damage. I guess I would probably go for no 1 because I'm in the age of needing a little more comfort but I really fancy the sailplan of No 3
 
Superficially, I rather fancy the third, although I'm not a fan of clipper bows aesthetically, and I agree that if the part of the toerail and plank have been replaced, there could be water ingress - and I would hazard a guess where, too.

All three are certainly lovely looking boats, Gary, and like Tillergirl, I'd be interested to hear Mirelle's opinion (is it will be far more learned than mine and I'm always hungry for boatlore).

Either way, a fine demonstration of taste, sir!

/<
 
I probably ought to add that I wouldn't go for No 2 simply because I fancy the other two a little more. I, like you, am not a fan of clipper bows, not because I don't like looking at them but it's another nook and cranny which I would prefer to avoid - nothing that anybody else ought to take any notice of at all - except that it wastes space. Since nobody else has expressed a favourite, let me start - No 1 but Gary, this is a matter for you, because we all choose boats that suit the kind of use we intend to use them for.
 
In the short time i've owned my wooden boat, I can only advise you on one certain thing which I think is valid.
I bought mine from Newcastle and can honestly say that our winter in the south is the same as their summer in the north.
I waited 3 weeks to just leave Hartlepool and the temperature was 7 degrees in July.
You'll be lucky if it goes below that in the south in winter time.
If you look at the Shetland Isles, they'd be taking the boat out of the water every time they are not using it.
I thought this might be relevant.
Neil.
 
I winter in the water for three years and then spend the fourth year in a yard. My thinking is that provided I have her well covered whilst afloat and give her attention, that is overall less stressful than lifting every year. So, its mast down every year, which then gets used as a ridge pole, engine is properly winterised - oil and filters changed before lay up, diesel tank filled to prevent condensation, all gear removed home to attic, warps, sheets and halliards laundered, bilge sponged and dried out, forehatch and companionway opened, all locker doors and most floorboards lifted so that with a narrow ventilation slot at the front and rear of the overall cover there is ventilation throughout. I have a programme of maintenance through the winter either with bits at home or on board. In the spring, its mast up and round out of the 'mudberth' in which she only floats in her wallow on a neap and can only get out on a spring, round to the 'beach' where she remains for seven days or so while I high pressure the bottom and rub down and undercoat and gloss the topsides. I find that after three years of anti-fouling between the tides that I get pretty c**p performance out of the antifouling and so I get lifted on the fourth year to give the bottom an extra special scrape and paint (did that last winter and performance is much better). I find though that I can maintain much smoother topsides by wintering afloat. Last year in the yard, didn't get back until beginning of May but its surprising how effective the spring wind and sun is in a boatyard for drying the timber. Hairline cracks at the seams appeared in places after rubbing down and whilst covering well on painting, now you can see where she has tightened up again and pushed out the smallest of excess to make a tiny ridge. Not an issue in terms of overall impact I think but it shows the difference. Now this bit is definitely unscientific but I asked the crane driver what she weighed when she came out - about 7 tons he said. I asked the same guy how much she weighed when she went back in - about 6.5 tons he said. I guess some that is water loss from the timber but we mustn't be too precise about that because the crane weighing devices don't strike me as the most reliable things - gosh that's quite an odd thing to say given that their warning bells use that device.

I think the most crucial things are an all over cover - fresh water is the killer - ventilation and a regular programme of attending to things that want doing.

It seems to me that freshwater entering the join between deck and cabin or deck and hull is the first thing to look for particularly at the ends where it can run down the hood ends and rot them.

Sorry to be so long, the grandkids are here and I'm not allowed to go au bateau unless I take them and the weather ain't right for them today.
 
very much in agreement!

I'm having a new winter cover made, which will extend down to the waterline, as the old one, which was made when she wintered afloat, only just goes past the rail.

Very interested in your comments on weight loss; I reckon Mirelle has lost roughly a ton at launching since I started wintering her ashore; she slowly makes back some in the season but most of it has gone for good (unless I keep her afloat again!)

I absolutely agree about fresh water, where it sneaks in, and the importance of an all over cover and ventilation.
 
Fresh Water

OK, but what to do about it in the Summer? Crystal opened up like a seive during a downpour on Monday, which usually happens after a dry spell, but as is stated, if those leaks are close to a deck join (between coachroof and deck, it appears), something must be done!
 
Wood boats

Some great advice here from people who have been looking after wooden boats for many years.
I have to agree that fresh water is the killer for wooden boats. During the winter period I regularly throw salt over the decks to try and stop some of the damage caused by fresh water, does it help……….. who knows! but it makes me feel better about leaving my pride outside through the winter months and I don’t have any green on the decks.
Everybody will tell you that salt water is an antiseptic for wood? Fresh water is the killer.
This year I have managed to find a marina that will store my boat inside a unheated shed for the winter period, thus stopping any of the fresh water damage.

Tom
 
Re: Fresh Water

Ah deck joints. I'm afraid the original 1" teak deck had to go several years ago. I just couldn't keep it watertight. The reason - I deduced upon removal that the builders fastened it with steel screws - if they were once galvanised 40 years had seen a pretty uniform removal of the galvanised. I think sometimes I heard the builder in my dreams saying to the first owner - don't worry they'll outlast you - which of course they did. So on went a Sapele Marineply deck with great care plugging all screw holes and laying beading round the cabin and doing one of those West Epoxy 'beads' their book talks about all round the gunwale - top plank is @ 12-14" deep, half above and half below the deck line. So far the bead has held well. I'm sure that the extra rigidity of the ply helps to maintain that joint - is it still called the 'devil' when you're not got a laid deck?
 
Re: Fresh Water

My decks are, I believe, canvas and ply, but I must admit I don't know much about them. Mirelle, can you enlighten?

Even more reason, therefore, to prevent water getting down beneath the paint in any way. It's quite difficult to tell where the rain is getting in, but either way, it's at least an annoyance, at worst a potential rot trap.

/<
 
Re: Fresh Water

I should have added that I glassed over the ply. Canvas over the deck and then painted to tighten it all up used to be the common way of doing it. I guess glassing over wears a bit better but its just a modern way of doing what used to done by canvas and paint.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

S
Vp 41 water capacity
Replies
0
Views
43
snowbird30ds
S
S
VP 41 raw water capacity
Replies
0
Views
23
snowbird30ds
S
PabloPicasso
Mains power
2 3
Replies
44
Views
890
PaulRainbow
PaulRainbow
S
Removing Seacocks/through hulls that have been glassed in
Replies
15
Views
603
Tranona
T
B
Heater
2
Replies
26
Views
702
NormanS
N

Share this page

Top