Veneer choices

[Saltram31]

Looking for opinions for a nice colour matched light wood veneer, to go between the interior mahogany laminated deck beams to cover the existing painted ply, which is now breaking down.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

The ply needs to be replaced, not covered.

 

[Saltram31]

The ply needs to be replaced, not covered.

The Ply is perfect.The paint has broken down along the side beams as that's where condensation has run off due to the curved surface. The 2 part paint is 40 years old.

 

[PCUK]

Why not repaint the ply for another forty years use?

 

[Saltram31]

A few reasons. Wrong time of year for painting.I can't be bothered with the mess of sanding it all back to get a good finish and would rather be sailing in the summer.

 

[Tranona]

Then ignore it. You will never be able to veneer that successfully. Or do the job properly but don't faff around with2 pack. Just use a domestic acrylic paint of the type used for bathrooms. It will still need preparation to get back to a sound surface and maybe a primer but that type of paint is non drip and easy to apply overhead. The phot shows the interior of my old boat painted in 1995 with Dulux Satinwood. Photo in 2019,

 

[AntarcticPilot]

The ply needs to be replaced, not covered.

Given the appearance of mould, I'd be inclined to think that the ply is in the early stages of terminal deterioration. 40 year old ply is likely to be suffering from failing glue. Those black marks are unlikely to originate in the paint, but rather in the wood. But you're in a better position to judge than I.

 

[Saltram31]

Given the appearance of mould, I'd be inclined to think that the ply is in the early stages of terminal deterioration. 40 year old ply is likely to be suffering from failing glue. Those black marks are unlikely to originate in the paint, but rather in the wood. But you're in a better position to judge than I.

Its surface mold which has attached to the rough paint areas.

 

[wrr]

Veneering is likely to be more difficult than painting, the preparation will be similar and successful gluing of the entire veneer is likely to be nigh on impossible. Like others, I would also advocate painting, I have used Johnstone's trade eggshell, which is oil-based and designed to deal with condensation. My interior ply, including deckhead, is over 60 years-old and shows no sign of glue failure or delamination, see picture.

 

[Saltram31]

Thanks for the replies and photos. I will rethink the paint finish and get a pro to get it back to original. The photo is how the deck head looked before the paint broke down.

 

[Tranona]

That is a very nice interior and well worth doing a good job on the deckhead. Very similar to my Golden Hind. Not sure why you wouldd want to pay somebody to do it as it is mainly time and graft rather than skill, although working overhead can be a bit tiring. If you use the type of paint I suggested temperature is not an issue. I did most of mine in the winter. To minimise damp and mould in the future make sure there is plenty of ventilation or run a dehumidifier.

 

[PCUK]

How about using thin flexi-ply with a hardwood veneer. This would be far easier to apply then veneer alone and could even be screwed and plugged.

 

[CrossedThreads]

I had some heavy water damage and decay of an interior panel in my Bavaria 38. I sanded, chiselled out the damaged wood, filled with two part wood filler and then veneered the entire panel.

Finish was brilliant and has improved the boat significantly. I added a varnish and stain to the veneer to relocate the factory finish.

I bought the veneer from Wood Veneer Hub. It was a paper backed veneer and I glued it in place with the recommended spray contact adhesive.

The paper backed stuff is easy to cut and template and comes in 8x4 sheet which is rolled.

 

[Saltram31]

I had some heavy water damage and decay of an interior panel in my Bavaria 38. I sanded, chiselled out the damaged wood, filled with two part wood filler and then veneered the entire panel.

Finish was brilliant and has improved the boat significantly. I added a varnish and stain to the veneer to relocate the factory finish.

I bought the veneer from Wood Veneer Hub. It was a paper backed veneer and I glued it in place with the recommended spray contact adhesive.

The paper backed stuff is easy to cut and template and comes in 8x4 sheet which is rolled.

Thanks for the pointer. I'll go through their website as it looks what I'm looking for.