varnishing the interior of a Hanse 291
- Thread starter ifoxwell
- Start date
Pye_End
Well-Known Member
Last time I used Compass topped off with Goldspar satin (or possibly Epiphanes rubbed!). Very hard varnish, but it perhaps needs loosening to get it really flat. Neat, it goes on pretty thick so does not need so many coats. It has chipped in a couple of places (maybe not helped by the thickness?) where pans have fallen on it, so the boards are currently on my freezer having a bit of a sand and touch up. This time I will put Sikkens UV on them (and then Goldspar) as I have some in the cupboard, but a combination which has worked well in the past.
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Deleted member 36384
Guest
See Post No #14 where I discuss this and then click on the hyper link at the text "Harris TaskMasters Varnish Mini Roller Sleeves" in post #14.
ifoxwell
Well-Known Member
Thanks, sorry didnt realise you had included the link, very helpful. As you have used them have you noticed any difference over the normal foam rollers that come in all the cheap DIY roller kits?
Cheers
Ian
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Deleted member 36384
Guest
Ian,
As I stated in my post I have not yet used the rollers, they are for varnishing large areas on the bulkheads.
The video below is by an expert and a professional and he uses what appears to be a foam roller. Harris also sell pile rollers that can be used with gloss paint and varnish but I would not want to use a pile roller for varnish as I feel it would be overloaded and would require additional tipping with the brush compared to the specialist roller. What I have learned is that it is easy to apply too tick a layer of varnish and a bit of time spent spreading out is worth the effort, I did this towards the end of the day when I was getting fed up and wanted to get the varnish on and finish up. I just ended up with runs down the edges which meant a lot of additional work to address.
Good video, in fact, it is worth looking through this blokes videos: -
https://youtu.be/_VdFzj48BOQ?list=PLzlN3A2DLgNw1KNAbM1nIFAkbLpVyt5Jw
itchenseadog
Well-Known Member
In my career, I have varnished literally hundreds of boats both inside and out. The most successful for interior work (as I said in my last post) is Ronseal Satincoat. I rub down between coats with 180 or 240 freecut paper, dust off with a vacuum and tak off. Ronseal is so easy to apply that I would never consider a roller, a good quality 2" brush with a 1"brush for detailing is just as quick and I get excellent results.
FulmarJeddo
Well-Known Member
Westerly Yachts originally used a two part lacquer on the woodwork. My cabin sole was badly worn and contaminated with salt water that wouldn't dry out after careless bailing out after a leaking shaft seal. I stripped it and thouroughly cleaned it with oxalic acid and re-lacquered it with Morrels 20% sheen. The results were pretty good and so far after one season it seems pretty hard wearing. [URL=http://s305.photobucket.com/user/dmetcalfe58/media/Boat%20stuff/image_zpshjogizhw.jpeg.html]
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ifoxwell
Well-Known Member
So Ive made a start, and bought some of the Flag floor varnish recommanded to us earlier in the thread and have been really impressed with it. Only time will tell how well its going to wear but its good value and goes on brilliantly. So thank you Humblebee.
In fact it seems to do such a good job I'm thinking of using it on all the wood work... but is there a catch. Is it ok to use floor varnish on all surfaces or will we find it runs to much when its applied to a vertical surface, or is so hard it chips to easily?
Thoughts guys?
Cheers
Ian
In fact it seems to do such a good job I'm thinking of using it on all the wood work... but is there a catch. Is it ok to use floor varnish on all surfaces or will we find it runs to much when its applied to a vertical surface, or is so hard it chips to easily?
Thoughts guys?
Cheers
Ian