Varnishing question II

Twister_Ken

Twister_Ken

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This is the year for revarnishing the floorboards of the trusty lugger. I've managed to strip most of the old varnish with a combination of sandpaper and scraping/peeling. But some stubborn bits remain - maybe 10% of surface area. Nitromors-style stripper, or hot air gun?
 
Ken - try Nitromors and wirewool.

What are you going to put on afterwards? I found that ordinary varnish -ie not 2 pack, was too soft and wears through, and looses its shine very quickly.

I used Junkers catalysed floor finish, designed for public areas. 2 seasons now and it is still nice an shiny even in high wear areas. Also only need 2 coats - and dead easy to apply.

Junkers web site
 
Just done mine - and found cautious use of hot air gun + varnish scraper excellent for the stubborn bits.

Had several I couldn't easily remove and didn't fancy using Nitromors in confines of Cabin.

Suspect it may depend on what varnish you have on there previously
 
Ken

Nitromors - and those old fashioned scourers that your mum would have used. You know the shiny metal ones, the size of your palm. A lot more easier on the wood than a scraper. You get them in most hardware shops etc.
 
I put on Ronseal Diamond Hard Satin last year after stripping the boards. So far, so good and it has survived getting soaked after a window leak.
Morgan
 
Heat gun/Nitromors . When you think you are done, a quick wipe over with white spirit will expose the even-ness of the stripping..
Whatever you intend to use, do please do a test area first and then look at it in sunlight/ under cabin lamps etc...I. personally really really really hate all waterbased stuff..can spot it a mile away..IMO its not 'varnish' as we know it Jim.

Are you going to seal the edges too (of course you are)..

And btw B+Q = Screwfix with added ££ ( but you knew that too)..

And finally the Blueboatman guide to interior varnishing.. I epoxy everything then lightly rub down and apply 3 coats of polyurethane, but each to their own..
 
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Afterwards - Epifanes satin was the plot. Sounds like I may need to revise.

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That is what I used last time I did mine, a few years ago now, and it has been fine.
 
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I favour not resurfacing the wood as I get better grip on my threadbare deck shoes. But I now have a problem of how to get rid of the stains from spilt red wine. Any clues?

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Don't spill it - such a waste! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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I favour not resurfacing the wood as I get better grip on my threadbare deck shoes. But I now have a problem of how to get rid of the stains from spilt red wine. Any clues?

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Over time the problem solves itself as you spill more wine, and the new stains fill the gaps between the old ones. You'll end up with an all over, but subtly dappled, hue. Additional splashes of rum (traditional red varieties recommended), whisky and/or brandy will add to the depth of the finish.

Those who suggest not spilling any are either not drinking enough, not drinking in a seaway, or are drinking straight from the bottle and downing it in one. In any case, while the method they advocate has its merits when starting from scratch, it's of no use to you once you've got the first few stains in place.
 
Dilunet and a power hose to strip the old stuff off, sand paper then five coats of Ronseal Diamond Hard Gloss, with a little sanding in between.

Finished job has been in place for 48 hours and still looks good!
 
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