Varnish!

[hannahman]

Another one for Le Tonkinois here, although I still use Epifanes too, on some areas of my boat.

I converted to Le Tonk on the toe rails and rubbing strakes, where I've had problems trying to keep up with maintaining the Epifanes.
Le Tonk just wears as opposed to peels, and it needs no thinning, it just goes straight on.
Downside perhaps is that it needs more coats to get a build up, but it goes on easily, and the surface just needs a quick 'de-nib' before re-coating.

Like I say, I haven't turned my back on Epifanes, and I love its deep shine finish, but I definitely find Le Tonk has reduced time spent on maintenance.

Hope the pic works....

Doug

 

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Pixie dust?

 

[Javelin]

2 coats of Bonda wood hardener and then use DEKS OLJE D2
According to our top wood botherer it's pretty hard to beat for finish.

However the boss says 2 coats of Bonda followed by Coelan if you want it to last.
That's what he's used on his boat.

 

[philiphurst]

I've been reasonably happy with my varnishing methods over the years. I've read numerous threads and articles most of which have been of little help.

For once we have a varnish thread where people are relating their experiences without attempting to make the point that there way is the only way to do the job. It's this that has made me question my approach and Javelin's input is of particular interest.

Nice one, everybody. Useful and interesting as it is supposed to be.

 

[Gone sailing]

2 coats of Bonda wood hardener and then use DEKS OLJE D2
According to our top wood botherer it's pretty hard to beat for finish.

However the boss says 2 coats of Bonda followed by Coelan if you want it to last.
That's what he's used on his boat.

Sounds like what I need on my fore hatch, will give it a go ��️��

 

[Poignard]

Do you all sand down between each coat?

You don't need to with Le Tonkinois but I usually do, lightly, just to get a matt surface so I can see if I've missed any part.

 

[philiphurst]

No sanding with Epifanes Rapid Clear btw

 

[Alpha22]

...but what I want is to apply something that is going to last 10 years without being touched....... Any candidates?

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com...le-clearcoat?gclid=CI7awpjwh74CFTQQtAodeiYAvg

Sadolin Extra Durable Clearcoat is a good contender. We did some external teak with it 4 years ago and it still looks fine today. May need a quick rub down and another coat next year, but nothing major. Used some on a sapele bathing platform 7 years ago and still acceptable now. No pealing and no flaking, no fading of the wood either, although it is a reasonably sheltered pontoon mooring. You can pick up the gloss version from Homebase.

 

[Mad Pad]

Coelan,...some of ours hasn't been touched for 10 years.....and in the Med.
Read the PBO reports.
Says £££££££££ but that's for one application.

 

[maxcampbell]

I built my boat from a kit, and started off with epoxy coating all the wood (brightwork and that to be painted), then protected the brightwork from UV with 2 pack epiphanes. That was 5 years ago, and last winter, after a summer on a mooring and a winter in a boatyard, there were obvious bare patches, with edges lifting, wood blackening, etc.

I'm half way through sanding back to bare wood and applying Woodskin, and I love it so far. It soaks into the wood, rather than leaving a coating. It looks & feels lovely (though not shiny & "glassy" like varnish). Best thing is that to maintain, you just paint on, without any sanding or mixing. Patching is dead easy.

It feels like the "willow" approach - not even trying to apply a topical layer, rather than the "oak" approach of trying to maintain an un-breached shiny surface offered by varnish. Time will tell, but it's predecessor product, whose name I can't remember now, has done very well in the CB varnish trial. I can imagine sitting on the mooring just patching up anywhere a bit worn or scuffed, and there's no question of failure of adhesion between coats.

Anyone know of a downside to Woodskin?

 

[pyrojames]

I have taken the opposite approach to most of the above. On the basis that varnish failure normally results from cracks, chips and dents that happen during every season, I don't see the value in buying expensive "yacht" varnish from the like of Epifanes. I now get all my paint from Jotun, and buy their Spontan marine varnish. It lasts as well as any thing else I have used Epifanes included, and its less than £10 a litre. The mast was done 5 years ago, and has only now begun to need a touch up, which inlcuded a recent Atlantic circiut and 4 months in the tropics. Its a single pack, easy to sand or strip and easy to apply.

Quote from Epifames for all the paint this year was £1600, less than a quarter of that from Jotun.

 

[jwilson]

One of the problems that I have heard which makes me cautious is that the expansion causes the 2pac to fail quickly, within a season, and then the wood under it starts to get water ingress damage. At the same time the rest of the 2pac is good and so it is a hell of a job to get it off to repair. The yard painted the hatch on my grandmothers boat and they had awful trouble trying to patch and repair the 2pac finish. In the end they had to sand it all off with difficulty and replace with epifanes.

Agree 100% - 2-pack is good for a while, but a total bitch once it starts to fail, some peels off easily, others parts stick like @@@@ and needs very laborious sanding of the very tough finish. At least with trad varnish it will come off easily with a scraper and some heat.

 

[LittleShip]

I have taken the opposite approach to most of the above. On the basis that varnish failure normally results from cracks, chips and dents that happen during every season, I don't see the value in buying expensive "yacht" varnish.

Agree.....

Classic yacht varnish, only one coat applied this year so far, needs at least one more

Tom.

 

[rjp]

I used Le Tonk for many years and was reasonably impressed but never seemed able to get enough coats on for a really durable finish. Last season Ravilakk was recommended to me at about half the cost and available locally. I took my boom and toe rails back to bare wood and put 3 coats on each, the first about 50:50. Pleased with the result after a full season and over wintering ashore. Less pleased with the couple of coats applied over existing Tonk on the cabin which crazed badly on the sun exposed side over the winter. So just taken that back to bare wood and applied Ravilakk. Managed 4 coats before launching Thursday. Light rubdown between each. Will add more if time and weather allow. Living in hope!

 

[cmedsailor]

How do you remove old varnish to bear wood? Just using sand paper? Do you need to apply any chemical remover/cleaner?

 

[philiphurst]

I never use chemical strippers. A tungsten carbide scraper and the careful use of a heat gun are all that are needed. Then finish by sanding.

 

[scmyacht]

i have started restoring yacht and now have a great little business painting and varnishing.

The only varnish i like to use is epifanes. the main reasoning is, generally i know it works well and have understood the varnish well enough to use it all year round and in different tempatures.

ill be happy to help anyone out with questions if anyone needs it.

my first post so be gentle

andy

 

[rjp]

I never use chemical strippers. A tungsten carbide scraper and the careful use of a heat gun are all that are needed. Then finish by sanding.

Ditto

 

[Redwing228]

I never use chemical strippers. A tungsten carbide scraper and the careful use of a heat gun are all that are needed. Then finish by sanding.

+1

 

[PlankWalker]

Heat gun and scraper only

+2