Varnish type

[PabloPicasso]

I have just a few wooden parts that are bare. The tiller, two cabin top hand rails, and some trims around the main hatch

Which varnish would give the best reults in looks and durability?

 

[Poignard]

Epifanes 'Rapidcoat'.

Epifanes Rapidcoat | Epifanes

 

[KevinV]

Rapidcoat is great, as is the rubbed effect varnish - both go on quite thick and dry fast.

I prefer regular epifanes for anything I can take home, but then I'm quite happy hiding in my workshop to apply (yet) another coat. In your situation rapidcoat will get better results (though I don't like varnished handrails, they're slippy)

 

[[70521]]

Le Tonk why anybody uses anything else is beyond me.

 

[Mark-1]

Joy, two conflicting answers.

Le Tonk is tempting if it really doesn't crack or flake? Does it? If say, someone were to do poor prep?

 

[Minerva]

Le Tonk is very good and maintains a little elasticity so shouldn’t crack. It does however take 24hrs to dry - so getting a week of dry weather to get enough coats on an external handrail might be a little optimistic in the Scottish climate!

 

[westernman]

Joy, two conflicting answers.

Le Tonk is tempting if it really doesn't crack or flake? Does it? If say, someone were to do poor prep?

I used a lot of Le Tonkinois. It has never cracked for flaked. Our prep at best is barely adequate. More like what you would call poor.

 

[Buck Turgidson]

Rapidcoat 3-4 coats a day then go sailing. I stick a coat of full gloss over the last Rapid for extra shininess!

 

[Mark-1]

I think the rapid coat wins....

 

[Refueler]

Depends in my book as to what the wood is there for.

Varnish in most forms is not what I would use for areas where 'grip' is needed .... cockpit / cabib soles .... locker tops on cockpit benches etc.

I prefer a preservative stain that soaks in - reduces chance of mold ... keeps the wood from rotting ... For such - stains produced for decking takes a lot of beating. There are so many different - similating so many different wood colours etc.
Easy to apply ... easy to service each year with a quick sand and recoat.

If the surface is not walked on or to provide hand grip - then I prefer single traditional pot varnish ... based on Linseed oil. It has stood the test of time ... Yes there are many other 'finishes' that we class as Varnishes - but in reality are not .... but vie for the same market.

For me there is little that beats the thinned wiped on varnish ..... made multiple times - building up that sheen ..... never cracks or flakes because its become soaked in and part of the wood. But this takes time and care to do well.

 

[Snowgoose-1]

Just wondering if anyone has met with success using water based varnish.

I tried it a few year's ago and you could get many coats on in day.

Unfortunately , much of the teak turned white when it rained a few weeks later. Perhaps there is a better make now.

 

[Refueler]

Is Burgess still available ... that used to be advertised all over as the 'best treatment' ... water based .. soaked in and protected the wood.

Personally I have a pet dislike of white / silvered teak ... for me - the real teak 'colour' is a rich and beautiful sight ... and can be had with a little work and thought.
Reminds me - I have to complete what I promised myself ... lightly sand and coat the woodwork on my 38 ....