varnish old teak with what ?

simonfraser

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i have some 20 yr old teak parts on my deck
not in great condition, have used sikkens Cetol for this last year
happy with the appearance and it seems to stick
but the final result is just too soft and marks / chips at the slightest provocation
even wearing socks and covering it up with a 'doormat' does not avoid dings and marks

so, i can strip it again and put on ?

would like to still be able to see the wood grain and color, so deck paint is not what i have in mind :)
 
i have some 20 yr old teak parts on my deck
not in great condition, have used sikkens Cetol for this last year
happy with the appearance and it seems to stick
but the final result is just too soft and marks / chips at the slightest provocation
even wearing socks and covering it up with a 'doormat' does not avoid dings and marks

so, i can strip it again and put on ?

would like to still be able to see the wood grain and color, so deck paint is not what i have in mind :)

I think you might find you've stumbled on one of those ybw hot potatoes - like what type of anchor to choose, whether AIS is 'better' than radar, etc,

In other words there are different strongly held views, none of which is 'right' but none of which is 'wrong' either. Broadly there are three views:
1. Varnish teak with good quality varnish; or
2. Use some sort of stain, wood treatment or oil as a protection and preservative; or
3. Leave teak in its natural state (and treat with fungicide or not).

The people holding each of each these views hold them with varying degrees of vehemence. Those who express themselves most forcefully are not necessarily any 'righter' than the rest.

. . . so it's a bit like an anchor thread really.
 
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Big boat, small boat, not much teak, loads of teak. Varnish, seven coats could take all year or just a few week-ends but look stunning. You will do it all again next year, Proper Job.

Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss. Much less work, looks almost as good, lasts well, easy to refresh next year. I have it on Katy Louise.

Epifanes do produce the best varnish and would make you feel very proud.
 
Surely teak oil is the product? Says what its for on the tin.
Teak oil should be thrown in the bin before considering using, it's a gloop that fills the pores in teak and eventually goes black and attacts dirt.

Have a look at Osmo hard wax for internal and uv protection oil externally.

Or the traditional approach is sea water..
 
i have some 20 yr old teak parts on my deck
not in great condition, have used sikkens Cetol for this last year
happy with the appearance and it seems to stick
but the final result is just too soft and marks / chips at the slightest provocation
even wearing socks and covering it up with a 'doormat' does not avoid dings and marks

so, i can strip it again and put on ?

would like to still be able to see the wood grain and color, so deck paint is not what i have in mind :)
You could just leave it bare.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Big boat, small boat, not much teak, loads of teak. Varnish, seven coats could take all year or just a few week-ends but look stunning. You will do it all again next year, Proper Job.

Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss. Much less work, looks almost as good, lasts well, easy to refresh next year. I have it on Katy Louise.

Epifanes do produce the best varnish and would make you feel very proud.

Oh, good, another excuse to show off:?

8AA3FAA8-ACDD-489A-9BA0-56F725F34D41.jpeg
 
My boat was used as a test by Sailing Today, and when I got here the teak had been paited with about six different products five years (iirc) previously. Every single one was falling off, blackened or otherwise in a state. I stripped the lot and applied International Woodskin. That lasted less than a year. Now I use Teak Wonder, after a conversation with a friendly Nauticat with immaculate teak with whom I went through the Crinan Canal. Quick clean with a scouring pad each year, slosh on the brightener, wash it off, job done.
 
Whilst epifanes is a varnish that gives an amazing finish to many woods I found it not so great on teak.
Nothing really is unless your willing to be a teak slave.
Teak oil has solvents and it's said it dissolves the natural oil in teak and that leads to black spots and accelerated deterioration.
I read many forums and Web sites and compelling cases were made for grey teak.
Even some teak garden furniture Web sites recommend it's best to leave it bare.
I also tried woodskin but ended up with the same results as JumbleDuck.
After 4 years from initial woodskin application and many additional coats about 5% of its left, and I'm staying grey.
I see a boat that has used semco or cetrol and his teak is so well coated it looks like plastic, but it seems to be lasting.
Will look into that Teak Wonder. Anything that's quick and easy..
 
I've just done all my teak with 3 coats of international woodskin, looks great, but the cockpit seating and the cockpit grating, even tho not even back on the boat yet, just seem to mark very easily. I cant imagine its going to cope with booted feet jumping all over it.

mmm, is it too late to slap a coat of that teak wonder over the woodskin? :)
 
Decks and cleats are best left raw but varnish should resist scuffs, abrasion etc. in other locations. Attached figure is 60y/o teak, Hempel's Wood Impreg followed by 5 coats of Epiphanes.Varnish.jpg
 
My preference is for Le Tonkinoise traditional Marine Varnish. The hand rails and toe rails I took back to bare wood last year on my 39 year old Fulmar. Then I applied 8 coats of Le Tonkinoise and still looks very good today. They do recommend an annual light rub down followed by 2 further coats. The varnish flows brilliantly and you can retouch any damaged area very easily. Being a traditional oil based varnish it is not the hardest surface like a polyurethane varnish. The first photo is during the first coat and the second was taken last Tuesday.
Le Tonkinois

IMG_1547 990pix.jpgIMG_1872 cropped 2000pix.jpg
 
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