Varnish for Cabin Sole

I can recommend LeTonkinois. Hard wearing. I tried it on my companionway steps. After 1 year can't tell. I'm moving everything varnished or oiled to this stuff. Fantastic that it can be used over what was oiled (teak oil). Light sanding, then wipe with acetone, and coat multiple times. Also good for immersed parts.
 
I wouldn't recommend water based varnishes they don't penetrate the wood as well as petroleum based products and don't look as good. I've used standard ronseal 50/50 matt and silk mix over many years it's been on my current cabin sole for 10 years and still looks good.
 
Major_Clanger said:
Thanks for that. Being water-based isn't a problem on a boat for longevity?
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Little known fact: being bater based or solvent based means very little to the finished product. Many cars are finished in water based paints .. the water or solvent is just a carrier to get the paint onto the object and smooth it out, after that, the polymerisation process takes place and the paint hardens. Whether it originally had solvent or water as the carrier is irrelevant at that point. Many VW and Audi are painted with water based, they don't wash off if left outside :)
 
Plum said:
Yes, have seen a number of good reports of that floor varnish. Shame it does not come in a size smaller than 2.5litres.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
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In my experience it definitely is The Puppy's Privates.

Restored mahogany/holly strip cabin sole of previous Dehler 34 with just 4 coats & was still perfect 5 years later.

So I overcoated the immaculate mahogany/holly strip cabin sole of current Dehler 35 with just 2 coats 14 years ago and it's still excellent.
 
Another vote for Ronseal. I've also used Le Tonkinois and it's very good too, especially outside. It has the big advantage over other varnishes that you don't have to strip it all off if it's damaged, just rub it down and recoat.
 
My last two cars have been painted with water-based paints, but I still prefer oil/alkyd varnishes on boats. I have used Ronseal water-based varnish on house floorboards, and for that it has genuine advantages, not least no complaints about the smell and long drying times. I have however seen other people's saloon sole varnish done with water-based go soft and milky after boats have been left with puddles under the companionway, where there have been deck leaks, or where wet sailbags have been left on the saloon floor.

Re-varnishing wooden companionway steps on the boat at the moment: so far three fresh coats of Ronseal oil-based gloss on top of old varnish sanded lightly, and the first of two coats of Epifanes rubbed-effect. These are dished steps that easily collect puddles.
 
I have just re varnished my floor boards with Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish Light Oak. The results are excellent and it went very very fast. I did it on a single day since drying takes only half hour and the next layer can be done in 2 hours.
For me was it difficult to obtain the paint since I live in Germany. All what I can say, it was worth the effort. I used light oak since I didn't want to sand down the old varnish completely. the scratches disappeared because of the light oak. I got the recommendation in the Moody owner forum.
 
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