DickB
Well-Known Member
Anybody recommend a good hardwaring satin varnish for a cabin sole? I am not sure if it not worth using a RonSeal extra hard varnish but if someone knows better...
thanks
thanks
Varnish for Cabin Sole
- Thread starter DickB
- Start date
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Guest
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Wouldn't using a product such as Sadolin, Ronseal or other stain type finish be better ? Built up in layers - it would a) be far more lasting for the wood, b) sufficient coats would stop any staining from shoes etc., c) would be a matt finish to aid non-slip .....
Talulah
Well-Known Member
I have just replaced our cabin soles and used Ronseal Diamond Hard satin varnish. Looks good, easy to apply etc but hasn't yet been heavily used. Give it a couple of weeks and I should know.
MoodySabre
Well-Known Member
I stripped my Teak and Holly cabin sole back last winter and gave it 6 coats of Ronseal Diamond Hard clear satin finish. It came up great and has stayed that way. I've seen many recommendations for it and they seem to be justified. Just do it in a warmish and dry environment or it will go milky.
Krusty
Well-Known Member
Gjoco VARNOL. Norwegan: imported by 'Black Dog Stores' ------- at least it was, a few years ago when I started using it.
I think it is a natural, penetrating resin (since it is best thinned with oil-of-turpentine) though it may have some additives. It should be used on wood sanded clean of previous coatings, but I have also used it as a 'freshener' over synthetic resin varnishes.
I first used it during a re-fit in 1998: sole-boards, table and locker doors with chipped and worn hard varnish were removed and sanded back to bare wood, then saturated with thinned Varnol, coat on wet coat; left to go 'tacky' then finished by rubbing with a rag soaked in Varnol to produce a satin sheen.
The whole process was no slower than other varnish systems, but the real gain has been in its maintenance: any accidental damage is repaired in a few minutes with the Varnol/turpentine-and-rag (kept in a small tin on board), and an end-of season makeover of the whole sole and table-top takes an hour.
Twenty thousand miles on, it still looks good and gets compliments.
I think it is a natural, penetrating resin (since it is best thinned with oil-of-turpentine) though it may have some additives. It should be used on wood sanded clean of previous coatings, but I have also used it as a 'freshener' over synthetic resin varnishes.
I first used it during a re-fit in 1998: sole-boards, table and locker doors with chipped and worn hard varnish were removed and sanded back to bare wood, then saturated with thinned Varnol, coat on wet coat; left to go 'tacky' then finished by rubbing with a rag soaked in Varnol to produce a satin sheen.
The whole process was no slower than other varnish systems, but the real gain has been in its maintenance: any accidental damage is repaired in a few minutes with the Varnol/turpentine-and-rag (kept in a small tin on board), and an end-of season makeover of the whole sole and table-top takes an hour.
Twenty thousand miles on, it still looks good and gets compliments.
oldestgit
Well-Known Member
Much like a couple of the others I striped back 2 floor sections of my Teak & Holly ply floor as they were water stained in places.
I applied 4 coats of Ronseal Diamond Hard clear satin finish, lightly sanding (de nibing) between coats. I also masked a couple of sections and applied a further generous coat and sprinkled in silver sand for wet weather grip.
The boat comes out for winter next week and these sections are perfect after one season. I will give them a further couple of coats over the winter, but so far I am not only pleased but amazed.
Have fun……Peter
I applied 4 coats of Ronseal Diamond Hard clear satin finish, lightly sanding (de nibing) between coats. I also masked a couple of sections and applied a further generous coat and sprinkled in silver sand for wet weather grip.
The boat comes out for winter next week and these sections are perfect after one season. I will give them a further couple of coats over the winter, but so far I am not only pleased but amazed.
Have fun……Peter
Crowblack
Well-Known Member
Four years ago sanded back the Teak and Holly floor sections and gave em four coats of Sadolin PV67 - lightly sanded between coats and they are still OK - even by the companionway.
Rooster
Well-Known Member
I used International Goldspar satin finish. Highly recommended.
R
R
DickB
Well-Known Member
Thanks folks... I'll probably try the Diamond hard stuff... Did anyone try masking off the holly strip when restaining the teak? On the new stuff the holly looks very white. It would be nice to try and get it back to origonal...
cheers,
cheers,
asj1
Well-Known Member
This is the stuff to use:
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUNISOLAC/
It smells terrible whae applied, you therefore need to take teh floor panels up to apply. After two years and only one coat ( in fact I think it may only have been one coat) , it is still perfect. Very hard weraring and slightly matt/silk finish. Also very reasonable price. The smalles Quantity they sell will easily do your floors and tehy sell all the brushes etc , which are very good quality.
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUNISOLAC/
It smells terrible whae applied, you therefore need to take teh floor panels up to apply. After two years and only one coat ( in fact I think it may only have been one coat) , it is still perfect. Very hard weraring and slightly matt/silk finish. Also very reasonable price. The smalles Quantity they sell will easily do your floors and tehy sell all the brushes etc , which are very good quality.
FlyingDutchman
Well-Known Member
I also want to varnish the floor boards on my boat (indoor / under the canopy).
I am considering a high gloss varnish as the floor stays dry (well, unless the boat sinks but then nobody cares about the floorboards anyway).
Is high gloss in this situation a no no?
I am considering a high gloss varnish as the floor stays dry (well, unless the boat sinks but then nobody cares about the floorboards anyway).
Is high gloss in this situation a no no?
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
>Is high gloss in this situation a no no? <
Definitely a yes yes if you want a ride in a helicopter, having broken your skull when going below with wet shoes, sliding and crashing into something harder than your head.
Definitely a yes yes if you want a ride in a helicopter, having broken your skull when going below with wet shoes, sliding and crashing into something harder than your head.
FlyingDutchman
Well-Known Member
Thank you, that is a clear statement!
I have the impression, that the varnish that is now on the floorboards is also a high gloss. Well, it's pretty shiny anyway... Or could this also be a satin?
I mean, is a satin also pretty glossy???
I have the impression, that the varnish that is now on the floorboards is also a high gloss. Well, it's pretty shiny anyway... Or could this also be a satin?
I mean, is a satin also pretty glossy???
MoodySabre
Well-Known Member
I used satin finish - it doesn't look dull and I haven't slipped on it.
Pasarell
Well-Known Member
With modern varnishes there is no link between gloss and slip resistance. The difference is in the wax used to make a varnish non slip or the aggregate used to make it rough and thereby reduce slip.
