Neeves
Well-Known Member
Ben
The reason it took us so long, one window per day, was that we did not want to remove all the windows and inevitably need to leave the boat open to the elements and stray, covetous hands. We did all the work on our swing mooring - it would be easier and quicker if the boat was on land as it would then be easier to apply pressure to the window as it set off, you might be able to apply covers and streying hands should not be an issue.
We therefore chose our weather took out one window at a time, cleaned up the surface of the cabin roof that would take the new window, applied the adhesive to the sanded and painted surface, installed the battens, added the water weights, cleaned up as much as possible the edges, inside and out, and then left overnight. The next day we then filled the edges where necessary and started on the next window. We had windows to replace on both sides and we have a top row of windows and windows parallel at a lower level, just above the deck. We did opposite windows in turn, leaving the 'first' window to cure off. Basically we did one window on one side and the next on the other. We had 4 x 20l bottles so could have weights on 2 windows at a time. After 2 days we took the first lot of water off, ready for the window we were working on. We left the battens on for 3 or 4 days, so you need lots of battens. Finally we filled the screw holes for the battens, 4 holes per window. Ours is a foam construction so the panel thickness was large and the screws for the battens did not go 'right through'. The screws were applied through there adhesive and the holes were easy to cover. We discovered this was roughly how the windows were originally applied as when we cleaned up the old adhesive we found the old screw holes.
A good scraper to clean up old adhesive is easily made from scrap acrylic (we had a lot!) Simple grind a sharp edge at about 45 degrees. The acrylic scraper will not then damage to gelcoat. You need a good few, the edge blunts. Or you need to keep them sharp. A good sander is also invaluable, to rough up the edge of the new acrylic and to clean off the old adhesive. So lots of sanding discs and lots of masking tape.
You weill need AC for the sander - or a good supply of batteries.
Cure time is quite long and we had to keep the sun off, easy and we had 2 x 20 litre water bottles keeping the adhesive cool plus a cover.
All our windows are large with at least one dimension 1m and the other dimension around 750mm. With a 100mm overlap we used a lot of adhesive.
We did not use it, but geared up in case, but we had 2 of those sucker things glaziers use to carry glass, ours had 3 suckers on each device. We arranged we could use them on the interior - with ropes and a frame to act as an internal means of applying pressure. However the water bottles were sufficient so did not use it. These would be useful if your windows are vertical as then water would not work. We use sucker devices when we clean the hull from the dinghy - they are dual purpose.
The biggest No No is don't use turps to clean up - its great BUT it will wick under or though the adhesive and reduce the bond. From memory ours was soapy water. Its not as good as turps, to clean, but these adhesives use water to set off so it does no harm. Turps is good when you get adhesive somewhere on the superstructure that was not intended (but keep it off the 'working' surfaces).
As you appreciate preparation is the key. You will be a bit apprehensive when you do the first one - but its actually quite easy and at the end of the day immensely satisfying.
As mentioned our windows are quite dark acrylic and you have no idea how well the adhesive has bonded, spread and set between acrylic and superstructure. When we had finished we took a hose to our work and checked for no leakage.
If you want to see what our windows look like google Lightwave Yachts, ours is a basic and early 38', not the fancy Forte.
Jonathan
The reason it took us so long, one window per day, was that we did not want to remove all the windows and inevitably need to leave the boat open to the elements and stray, covetous hands. We did all the work on our swing mooring - it would be easier and quicker if the boat was on land as it would then be easier to apply pressure to the window as it set off, you might be able to apply covers and streying hands should not be an issue.
We therefore chose our weather took out one window at a time, cleaned up the surface of the cabin roof that would take the new window, applied the adhesive to the sanded and painted surface, installed the battens, added the water weights, cleaned up as much as possible the edges, inside and out, and then left overnight. The next day we then filled the edges where necessary and started on the next window. We had windows to replace on both sides and we have a top row of windows and windows parallel at a lower level, just above the deck. We did opposite windows in turn, leaving the 'first' window to cure off. Basically we did one window on one side and the next on the other. We had 4 x 20l bottles so could have weights on 2 windows at a time. After 2 days we took the first lot of water off, ready for the window we were working on. We left the battens on for 3 or 4 days, so you need lots of battens. Finally we filled the screw holes for the battens, 4 holes per window. Ours is a foam construction so the panel thickness was large and the screws for the battens did not go 'right through'. The screws were applied through there adhesive and the holes were easy to cover. We discovered this was roughly how the windows were originally applied as when we cleaned up the old adhesive we found the old screw holes.
A good scraper to clean up old adhesive is easily made from scrap acrylic (we had a lot!) Simple grind a sharp edge at about 45 degrees. The acrylic scraper will not then damage to gelcoat. You need a good few, the edge blunts. Or you need to keep them sharp. A good sander is also invaluable, to rough up the edge of the new acrylic and to clean off the old adhesive. So lots of sanding discs and lots of masking tape.
You weill need AC for the sander - or a good supply of batteries.
Cure time is quite long and we had to keep the sun off, easy and we had 2 x 20 litre water bottles keeping the adhesive cool plus a cover.
All our windows are large with at least one dimension 1m and the other dimension around 750mm. With a 100mm overlap we used a lot of adhesive.
We did not use it, but geared up in case, but we had 2 of those sucker things glaziers use to carry glass, ours had 3 suckers on each device. We arranged we could use them on the interior - with ropes and a frame to act as an internal means of applying pressure. However the water bottles were sufficient so did not use it. These would be useful if your windows are vertical as then water would not work. We use sucker devices when we clean the hull from the dinghy - they are dual purpose.
The biggest No No is don't use turps to clean up - its great BUT it will wick under or though the adhesive and reduce the bond. From memory ours was soapy water. Its not as good as turps, to clean, but these adhesives use water to set off so it does no harm. Turps is good when you get adhesive somewhere on the superstructure that was not intended (but keep it off the 'working' surfaces).
As you appreciate preparation is the key. You will be a bit apprehensive when you do the first one - but its actually quite easy and at the end of the day immensely satisfying.
As mentioned our windows are quite dark acrylic and you have no idea how well the adhesive has bonded, spread and set between acrylic and superstructure. When we had finished we took a hose to our work and checked for no leakage.
If you want to see what our windows look like google Lightwave Yachts, ours is a basic and early 38', not the fancy Forte.
Jonathan